Parabens, FDA Regulation, and Clean Beauty Standards

Parabens are under regulatory scrutiny by the FDA and many groups are lobbying to remove parabens from skincare.(1) Why is this? I am a lawyer that specializes in cosmetic law and encouraging diversity in cosmetic ingredient research, and this is the state of paraben regulation in skincare around the world. In this blog I will discuss the laws and restrictions on using parabens in skincare around the world.

Parabens stand as the most widely employed preservatives in the cosmetic industry, serving a crucial role in enhancing the shelf life of various products. Their prevalence is attributed to their effective antimicrobial properties, which help inhibit the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast in cosmetics and personal care items.(2)The parabens most frequently used in cosmetics include methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.(3) These preservatives are found in various cosmetic products such as makeup, moisturizers, hair care items, and shaving products.

One of the key reasons for the widespread use of parabens is their versatility. They are compatible with a broad range of cosmetic formulations, providing stability and protection against microbial contamination. Parabens help prevent the deterioration of products, ensuring they remain safe and effective for consumers over an extended period.

Paraben Paradox: Beneficial or Dangerous?

FDA’s Stance on Parabens

While the FDA doesn’t have specific regulations solely for preservatives in cosmetics, it treats them similarly to other cosmetic ingredients under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.(4) The agency continually reviews scientific studies on parabens’ safety and, as of now, has not found evidence indicating adverse effects on human health when used in cosmetics.

Regulation of Parabens in Skincare

The European Commission on Endocrine Disruption designates parabens as Category 1 priority substances.(5) The estimated daily human exposure to parabens is in the range of 76–142 mg.(6) This underscores the urgency for further investigations into resulting paraben levels in individuals.

Moreover, personal care products are a source of paraben exposure, evident in studies comparing(7) paraben levels among individuals who regularly use cosmetics and those who abstain.(7) Adolescent girls applying daily(9) makeup exhibit urinary propylparaben levels 20 times higher than infrequent or non-users.(8)The consistent use of body and face lotions, hair care items, sunscreens, and makeup consistently correlate with significantly elevated levels of urinary parabens, as indicated by multiple studies.

What Consumers Should Pay Attention to on Labels

Deciphering the ingredient list of your beloved serum poses a challenge for consumers seeking ingredient awareness. In this pursuit, it becomes pivotal to meticulously examine labels, with a specific focus on the commonly used parabens such as butylparaben, methylparaben, and propylparaben. Unraveling cosmetic labels, riddled with intricate terminology and various names for parabens, can be a complex task. Therefore, consumers are encouraged to familiarize themselves with alternative names for parabens, ensuring a comprehensive understanding and facilitating informed decision-making when selecting personal care products. In the journey towards ingredient awareness, consumers play an active role in promoting informed and health-conscious choices.

Environmental impact

Effect on Reefs: Parabens have been detected in various water bodies, including oceans and seas. Research has shown that these chemicals can be harmful to coral reefs.[9] Coral reefs are highly sensitive ecosystems, and exposure to parabens may contribute to coral bleaching, hinder the growth of corals, and disrupt the symbiotic relationships between corals and the microorganisms that support them.

Impact on Marine Life: Parabens can enter aquatic environments through wastewater discharge, and once in the water, they can bioaccumulate in aquatic organisms. Studies have found traces of parabens in various marine species, including fish and shellfish.[10] The accumulation of these chemicals in marine life raises concerns about the potential impact on the health and reproductive capabilities of these organisms.

Effects on Animals: Terrestrial animals may also be indirectly affected by parabens through the contamination of water sources. Additionally, there is evidence that parabens can interfere with the endocrine system in animals, affecting hormonal balance.[11] This disruption can lead to reproductive issues and other health problems in wildlife.

Water Supply Contamination: Parabens can enter water supplies through the discharge of treated wastewater. While conventional wastewater treatment processes can remove a portion of parabens, some may persist and end up in rivers, lakes, and groundwater. [12] This contamination of water supplies raises concerns about the potential long-term impact on human health as well, as people may be exposed to parabens through drinking water and the consumption of fish and other aquatic products.

Legal Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry: The Paraben Predicament

In recent years, the cosmetics industry has found itself entangled in legal battles, with consumers increasingly demanding transparency and accountability for the products they use. One notable case shedding light on these issues is the class-action lawsuit filed by Lindsey Finster against Sephora USA, challenging the credibility of the “clean at Sephora” program. [13]

The heart of the dispute lies in the alleged misleading nature of the label, with Finster asserting that products may not genuinely be free from harmful substances like parabens, sulfates, and phthalates, despite the promise of cleanliness. This case sheds light on the broader issue of greenwashing in cosmetics, where products are marketed as environmentally friendly or devoid of harmful ingredients without meeting these criteria. It underscores the urgent need for clearer regulations and heightened consumer awareness regarding product labeling, particularly concerning the presence of parabens. As consumers become more discerning and the legal landscape evolves, such lawsuits may drive the cosmetics industry toward greater accountability and environmental consciousness.

Stricter Guidelines, Innovative Alternatives, and Advocacy by Marcha Isabelle Chaudry

In the dynamic realm of paraben regulation, I’ve stood as a prominent advocate[14] for ingredient safety in cosmetics. Lobbying on this critical issue in Washington DC, I’ve not only amplified the dialogue surrounding the impact of cosmetic ingredients on vulnerable populations, but I’ve also testified before both the FDA and the U.S. Congress, offering invaluable perspectives on the matter.[15]

My proactive engagement reflects a growing consciousness about the necessity for transparent and equitable regulations in the cosmetics industry. As we peer into the future of paraben regulation, my advocacy efforts serve as a driving force, shaping policies that prioritize consumer health and environmental sustainability. This convergence of advocacy and regulation signals a promising era where well-informed decisions, industry innovation, and public well-being converge to redefine the landscape of cosmetic safety.

vulnerable populations

Vulnerable Populations Impacted by Parabens

Within the realm of personal care products, the discussion on parabens extends beyond cosmetic considerations to spotlight specific vulnerable populations. From pregnant individuals and children to the elderly and economically disadvantaged, the potential risks of paraben exposure vary across diverse demographics. It’s important to note that these categories are interconnected, and individuals may fall into multiple at-risk segments simultaneously. Comprehensive risk assessments should consider these factors to develop targeted strategies for mitigating potential harm.

Other Names for Parabens

Within the intricate world of cosmetic formulations, parabens assume various disguises under standardized nomenclature known as International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. These include Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Benzylparaben, Sodium Methylparaben, Sodium Ethylparaben, and Sodium Propylparaben.[16] Dissecting the INCI names reveals the pervasive presence of these synthetic preservatives in personal care products. From the ubiquity of Methylparaben to the sodium salt forms utilized for their water solubility, recognizing these INCI names is crucial for consumers navigating product labels and seeking to make informed choices about the presence of parabens in their cosmetic selections.

Paraben structure

The Future of Paraben Regulation

As concerns over paraben impacts rise, the regulatory landscape is poised for change. Recent lawsuits, such as the one against Sephora USA, underscore a growing demand for transparent labeling. Anticipated shifts include more stringent guidelines from regulatory bodies like the FDA and EMA, potentially limiting allowable paraben concentrations. The push for “clean” beauty products is also driving the industry towards exploring innovative, safe alternatives to parabens. In essence, the future of paraben regulation is steering towards a balance between safeguarding health, encouraging innovation, and addressing environmental considerations.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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