Can Avoiding Serums Really Improve Your Skin? A Deep Dive Into the Serum Backlash
For years, skincare advice was simple: cleanse, tone, and moisturize. That was the go-to ritual for clear, glowing skin. Today, things have changed drastically.
From TikTok trends to dermatologist-backed routines, skincare has become a science — and an overwhelming one at that. Now, it feels like you need a chemistry degree just to read the back of a skincare bottle.
Among the many products flooding the shelves, one category seems to dominate the conversation: serums. These potent liquids promise to transform your skin — but are they helping or harming it?
The Rise (and Fall?) of the Serum Obsession
Serums have long been seen as the crown jewels of modern skincare. Lightweight and highly concentrated, they deliver active ingredients directly to the skin.
From hyaluronic acid for hydration to niacinamide for calming breakouts, there seems to be a serum for every concern. Prefer a natural alternative to retinol? Try bakuchiol.
Find vitamin C too harsh? Ascorbic acid derivatives might be your best bet. With so many options, the variety seems like a blessing. But is it actually too much of a good thing?
Recently, there’s been a shift in how people view serums. Search trends show a dip in serum-related queries. And on TikTok, users are documenting the skincare products they’re quitting — and serums top the list.
Why Are People Ditching Serums?
A viral TikTok trend sees users saying “goodnight” to products they no longer trust. Serums — especially those with strong active ingredients — are frequently mentioned.
Some users claim these serums left their skin red, dry, or even broken out. The phrase “buyer’s regret skincare” often accompanies these videos, calling out even best-selling products.
And there’s a pattern: most of these controversial products are serums packed with active ingredients like vitamin C, glycolic acid, niacinamide, or retinol — and in very high concentrations.
You’ll find options boasting 30% vitamin C or 30% glycolic acid — levels that can be intense, especially for sensitive skin types.
Dermatologists Are Concerned, Too
The online buzz has also caught the attention of skincare professionals. According to dermatologists, the overuse of powerful serums is causing real harm to real skin.
Dr. Anna, an aesthetic doctor, explains that social media has amplified skincare FOMO. Patients feel pressure to use what’s trending — often without knowing what their skin actually needs.
Dr. Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist, agrees. She says influencer culture plays a huge role in how consumers build their skincare routines — and not always for the better.
Over-Layering Serums: A Common Mistake
Wanting to fix every skin issue at once is understandable. Who wouldn’t want to erase acne, dullness, fine lines, and dark spots — all in one go?
But piling on too many serums can backfire. One of the most frequent mistakes experts see is over-layering active ingredients.
Many people use 5 or 6 different serums in one routine, influenced by skincare tutorials on TikTok and Instagram. But this approach isn’t just unnecessary — it can be harmful.
Mixing Ingredients That Shouldn’t Be Mixed
Some ingredients just don’t play well together. And when combined, they can cause irritation, sensitivity, or even chemical burns.
Dr. Anna shares some combinations to avoid:
Tretinoin and AHAs/BHAs (like glycolic or salicylic acid)
Vitamin C and exfoliating acids
Benzoyl peroxide and retinol
Vitamin C and retinoids
These blends can be too harsh, especially when layered without proper guidance. What works for one person’s acne scars might cause another person to break out in hives.
More Products ≠ Better Skin
Dr. Derrick Phillips, dermatologist and spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation, says serums have a place — but only when used thoughtfully.
If you’re using multiple heavy products or thick serums, you could be clogging your pores. This often leads to acne, blackheads, and other congestion issues.
Dr. Mahto adds that overuse of serums can also lead to conditions like eczema or perioral dermatitis — a painful, red rash often found around the mouth and nose.
That’s likely why the hashtag #perioraldermatitis has tens of millions of views on TikTok. People are discovering, often too late, that their “glow-up” routine is damaging their skin barrier.
The Damage of Damaged Skin Barriers
Dr. Anna explains that when the skin barrier is compromised, you’ll notice signs like:
Itching, Tightness, Peeling, Redness
Small pimples or inflammation
Ironically, people then rush to buy barrier-repair creams to fix the issues their other products caused — a cycle that keeps the skincare industry booming.
So… Are Serums Even Necessary?
Let’s be clear: Serums are not the enemy. When chosen carefully and used properly, they can absolutely improve your skin.
But they’re not essential for everyone. Dr. Anna says two things are non-negotiable: cleansing and sun protection.
If your budget is tight or you prefer a simple routine, you’re better off skipping serums and focusing on a good cleanser, a moisturizer, and SPF.
The Return of Simple Skincare
On TikTok, minimalist skincare is making a comeback. Search for “simple skincare routine” and you’ll find users ditching 10-step regimens in favor of just three products.
Many now prefer a basic lineup:
Gentle cleanser
Hydrating moisturizer
Broad-spectrum sunscreen
Dr. Phillips supports this trend. He says simple routines are easier to stick to and cause fewer issues like redness, irritation, or breakouts from ingredient overload.
If You Still Want to Use Serums, Do It Smartly
Serums aren’t disappearing anytime soon. But layering them yourself, without expert advice, is where many go wrong.
Dr. Mahto recommends this basic rule: separate your serums by time of day.
Use vitamin C in the morning, before sunscreen.
Use retinol (vitamin A) at night, after cleansing.
This simple trick avoids most harmful ingredient interactions while still letting you enjoy the benefits.
The “ABC” Method of Skincare
Dr. Anna suggests the “ABC” approach if you want effective skincare without confusion:
A for Vitamin A (retinol)
B for Broad-spectrum sunscreen
C for Vitamin C
Vitamin C and sunscreen protect your skin in the daytime. Retinol helps with cell turnover overnight.
Modern Formulas Do the Work for You
Today’s products are better than ever. Many brands now combine ingredients in one serum, so you don’t have to mix and match.
Dr. Mahto recommends trusted names like Paula’s Choice, Medik8, and Omorovicza. These brands offer serums with smart ingredient combinations that work together, not against each other.
Dr. Phillips also praises formulas that pair retinol with niacinamide. Niacinamide helps reduce inflammation and can minimize the irritation caused by retinol.
Try:
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 (anti-aging and gentle)
Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Serum (targets fine lines and texture)
Another great combo? Niacinamide with Vitamin C. This duo brightens the skin and reduces discoloration. A budget-friendly pick is Versed’s Stroke of Brilliance Brightening Serum.
Just make sure to follow instructions — even great formulas can cause issues if misused.
Final Thoughts: A Balanced Approach Wins
The verdict is clear: Serums can be great — but less is often more.
TikTok creators, dermatologists, and even big brands are signaling a shift toward skincare minimalism. It’s not about using every trending serum. It’s about finding what actually works for your unique skin.
So before you add another bottle to your shelf, ask yourself:
Do I really need this?
Does it work with what I’m already using?
Is my skin showing signs of stress?
If the answer to any of those is “maybe not,” it might be time to take a break. Your skin — and your wallet — will thank you.
