If you’re an advanced skincare user or a curious consumer, you are probably very familiar with Retinoids / Retinol. This potent active skin care ingredient is considered the ‘fountain of youth’. It is often credited with being the most effective at reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne and improving skin tone.
Retinoids have been extensively researched since the ’40s and have been used primarily to control acne. A 1983 study proved that retinoic acid can manage skin ageing. Fast forward to the ’90s, a milder form of Retinoid, Retinol, was available, and since then, Retinoids have become the gold standard of anti-ageing skincare. They are trendy as they are available over the counter and affordable, and some have lower irritation risk. Newcomers like Granactive Retinoid and Bakuchiol are the latest additions to the extended Retinoid family.
In this article, you will learn:
Retinoids definition
types of Retinoids by strength and efficacy
how they work
benefits and side effects
natural Retinoids alternatives
dos and don’ts
how fast can you expect results
What are Retinoids
The term RETINOID is used for Vitamin A derivates; they have been extensively researched and have been used topically to heal acne, reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen synthesis, and smooth skin.
RETINOID = a category of skincare active ingredients
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RETINOL = a form of Retinoid
RETINOIDS can be synthetic and animal derived.
The natural equivalent to RETINOIDS is CAROTENOIDS (precursors of Retinol) and TRANS RETINOIC ACID, or Pro-vitamin A + a newcomer, Bakuchiol (more on this below).
Many Retinoids are available, both cosmetic grade and prescription-only, offering solutions for all skin types, from low potency with low irritation risk to prescription-only with a higher chance of skin reaction.
Native Essentials Skincare Retinoids
How do Retinoids work
Retinoids are available in different forms; some Retinoids are immediately activated as soon as applied topically, like Tretinoin or Cacay oil (Retinoic acid/Trans Retinoic acid); weaker Retinoids need to undergo a ‘conversion’ on the skin to become Retinoic acid/Trans Retinoic acid. The more passages, the weaker the final effect on the skin.
Retinoic acid / Trans Retinoid acid interact directly with the skin’s Retinoid receptors (RAR, RXR), signaling and modulating the skin to repair itself, generate more collagen, and stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize more collagen fibers and remove degenerated elastin fibers.
There is an exception, Bakuchiol; it’s not classified as a Retinoid but its function mimics exactly what Retinoids do.
Native Essentials Skincare Retinoids conversion
Benefits and Side Effects of Retinoids
Here is what both synthetic and natural Retinoids do (with variable degree of efficacy based on the type of Retinoid used):
THE GOOD NEWS
reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the synthesis of new collagen
inhibit enzymes that breakdown and deplete collagen
smooth the skin by modulating the genes involved in skin cell turnover
fade dark spots by peeling off dead skin thus removing old pigmented cells, replacing them with normally pigmented ones
unclog pores
heal acne fast and prevent further acne scarring
exfoliate the skin
stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin to improve color
But here is what synthetic and strong Retinols (Retinoic acid, Retinal, Retinol) also can cause:
THE BAD NEWS
dryness and peeling
redness
itching
burning
stinging
irritation
UV sensitivity (that’s why you need to apply them at night)
not suitable during pregnancy and while breastfeeding
may aggravate acne rosacea
***Results from Reinoid usage vary individually. Some of the side effects will disappear after the skin acclimatizes, but in some cases, if the irritation persists, you need to switch to a weaker Retinoid or discontinue.
No side effects with Natural Retinoids
Every skin is unique and it can react to new skincare ingredients in different ways. However, a few studies indicate that natural sources of pro-vitamin A and carotenoids are very well tolerated by all skin types, compared to synthetic Retinoids of similar strength. They are also less drying, more soothing and nourishing that their synthetic counterparts. More evidence is needed, but we know that:
BAKUCHIOL
Is a plant-based ingredient extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Bakuchi/Babchi tree (Psoralea corylifolia). It is a retinol-analogue, because it mimics the action of retinol minus the negative side effects, and it can be used even on delicate areas like the eyes contour.
The peculiarity of BAKUCHIOL is that it performs like a Retinoid but it doesn’t seem to act via the same retinoic acid skin receptors. More research is needed to further confirm the action mechanism, but the results are already very encouraging. Bakuchiol is not very effective in healing acne, but it works very well for fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, and uneven tone.
We have formulated NOOR • Retinol Eye Oil with Bakuchiol
ROSEHIP OIL, CACAY OIL
They are both rich in ready-available Trans Retinoic acid, the natural equivalent to Retinoic acid aka Tretinoin, the most potent form of Retinoid. Thanks to their complex composition, Rosehip and Cacay add a soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory action with no side effects. No wonder why they are superstar age-delay plant oils!
SHAANT • Regenerating Luxe Oil is formulated with organic Rosehip oil, and
AZUR • Calming Light Oil with Cacay Oil.
BETA-CAROTENE RICH OILS
Rosehip, Sea Buckthorn, Carrot Seeds, Red Palm oil are rich in Beta-Carotene, a form of provitamin A. They convert to Trans Retinoic acid. They are comparable to weaker Retinoids but they are well tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive.
SHAANT • Regenerating Luxe Oil is very rich in beta-carotene (Rosehip, Sea Buckthorn)
How to use Retinoids
Strong Retinoids have a pH range of 4–6.6 (oils like Rosehip, Cacay, Bakuchiol are not pH dependent); as the skin and the acid mantle needs to adjust to the potent action of Retinoids, follow the 8 do’s and don’ts:
Native Essentials skincare dos and don’ts of Retinoids
How long does it take to see results?
Retinoids ‘reprogram and speed up’ the skin renewal process, and this takes time and regular use.
Start synthetic Retinoids gradually while natural Retinoids can be used regularly from the beginning, and once you have achieved your optimum routine you can expect:
Native Essentials Skincare How fast Retinols work
Are you using Retinoids? Share your experience with us in the comments below.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.