Retinyl Palmitate in Skin Care

Retinyl Palmitate (RP) is often found in skin care products that say they have retinol.

Retinyl palmitate is an ester form of a retinoid, but it is not the same as retinol.

Retinyl palmitate vs Retinol

Retinol is much better than retinyl palmitate.

5 reasons retinol is better in skin care products than retinyl palmitate:

safer

absorbs better

stronger

more effective

does not turn into a cancer causing ingredient in the sun

Is Retinyl Palmitate Dangerous?

It has a bad reputation because it has been shown to cause skin cancer in mice. Is the fear of retinyl palmitate toxicity justified? Is this Vitamin A palmitate cancer causing? Are skin care products with retinyl palmitate a danger? What is the controversy about retinyl palmitate safety? This blog will review the data so you can decide for yourself. This brief video will tell you some of my thoughts about the dangers of retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitate vs retinol

Is Retinyl Palmitate a form of Vitamin A ?

Yes, both retinol and retinyl palmitate are in the retinoid family. These forms of Vitamin A are very different however. Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid: a saturated fatty acids that comes from palm oil.

Retinol penetrates into the skin and is known to help acne and aging, while retinyl palmitate does not penetrate as well and may have dangerous side effects. Retinyl palmitate is found in many skin care product that claim they have retinol because it is cheaper than retinol. It is better for you to use skin care products with retinol instead of retinyl palmitate products.

We can help you find the best skin care products for your Baumann Skin Type. Why guess what products are safe to use when we can give you specific advice from our dermatologists? We take all of this into account when we design your skin care routine and give you product options from many different brands.

All you need to do is take the skin type quiz.

Is retinyl palmitate safer than retinol?

Retinol is much safer than retinyl palmitate.

Dangers of retinyl palmitate

Toxicity

Retinyl Palmitate was the subject of a controversial summer 2010 report by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) in which the organization warned of possible photocarcinogenicity associated with RP-containing sunscreens. The EWG rates it as a 9 on the safe scale (1 being the most safe or “best”) and 10 being the least safe or “worst”).

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) deemed vitamin A in cosmetics safe at concentrations of 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) for body lotion and 0.3% RE for other leave-on and rinse-off products in 2005. (18) However, when considering the overall exposure to vitamin A from all sources, including food and supplements, the SCCS could not reach a definitive conclusion due to inconsistencies in model calculations. They highlighted a concern for the segment of the population (5%) with the highest exposure levels to vitamin A, as their intake from food and supplements might already exceed the recommended upper limit. The addition of vitamin A from cosmetics could potentially increase this risk, although cosmetics contribute less to total vitamin A exposure compared to food sources. The SCCS stated that determining maximum concentration limits for cosmetics that account for other sources of exposure falls outside its remit, implying that managing the risk associated with total vitamin A intake is a broader issue that extends beyond cosmetic products alone.

When is it ok to use retinyl palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is safer in these situations:

Used at night and washed off in the am

When used in the daytime and covered by sunscreen

When it is in a very low concentration in a skin care product and not much of the product is used but we do not know what a safe amount is. (12)

When it is in a product like a cleanser that is rinsed off before going in the sun

Use it over an antioxidant serum to neutralize any free radicals

Retinoids and Cancer

The vitamin A family includes retinyl esters, retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and oral Accutane in addition to four carotenoids, including beta-carotene, many of which have been shown to prevent or protect against cancer (1,2,3,4,5, ) That does not mean that Retinyl Palmitate prevents cancer just because oral retinol, beta-carotene, or tretinoin have been shown to. In fact, the study that the EWG refers to shows evidence that RP may lead to skin tumors in mice.

retinyl palmitate turns dangerous in the sun

Why Does Retinyl Palmitate Turn Dangerous in the Sun?

Of the eight in vitro studies published by the FDA from 2002–2009, four revealed that reactive oxygen species were produced by retinyl palmitate after UVA exposure. (6,7,8,9,10)

Even though it seems clear that retinyl palmitate leads to free radicals, it is still not known if it causes cancer in human skin.

Using Sunscreen with Retinyl Palmitate

Sunscreens such as Avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate have been shown to stabilize the breakdown of retinyl palmitate that occurs with UV exposure. (11) So if you must use a retinyl ester like retinyl palmitate, use it with a sunscreen.

Side effects of retinyl palmitate

As with all retinoids, retinyl palmitate can cause:

redness

scaling

peeling

itching

Our Dermatologist Tips and Recommendations about retinyl palmitate and retinol esters

In 1997, Duell et al. showed that retinol is more effective at penetrating into human skin in than retinyl palmitate. (13) So there is really no reason to use retinyl palmitate when you can use retinol instead! The slow penetration of RP into the skin allows RP to remain on the skin long enough to undergo a photoreaction and generate reactive oxygen species (Free radicals). These reactive oxygen species or free radicals can theoretically lead to increased skin cancer.

In light of the controversy swirling around RP, the appropriate concern it has caused, and the weight of evidence, I advise patients to avoid daytime use of products with retinyl palmitate high on the ingredient list. I feel that it poses real risks while offering minimal benefits.

Use retinol, tretinoin adapalene, tazarotene or trifarotene instead

Use retinoids at night

Retinyl palmitate does not penetrate very well into the skin. Consequently, for cosmetic topical retinoid formulations, I recommend retinol instead. That said, sufficient evidence to establish a definite causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced.

Looking for the best products for your skin type? Shop by your Baumann Skin Type and stop wasting money on the wrong skin care products.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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