Retinyl Palmitate vs Retinol: Safety, Effectiveness, and Sun Exposure Risks in Skin Care

Retinyl Palmitate in Skin Care

Retinyl Palmitate (RP) is often found in skin care products that say they have retinol.

Retinyl palmitate is an ester form of a retinoid, but it is not the same as retinol.

Retinyl palmitate vs Retinol

Retinol is much better than retinyl palmitate.

5 reasons retinol is better in skin care products than retinyl palmitate:

safer

absorbs better

stronger

more effective

does not turn into a cancer causing ingredient in the sun

Is Retinyl Palmitate Dangerous?

It has a bad reputation because it has been shown to cause skin cancer in mice. Is the fear of retinyl palmitate toxicity justified? Is this Vitamin A palmitate cancer causing? Are skin care products with retinyl palmitate a danger? What is the controversy about retinyl palmitate safety? This blog will review the data so you can decide for yourself. This brief video will tell you some of my thoughts about the dangers of retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitate vs retinol

Is Retinyl Palmitate a form of Vitamin A ?

Yes, both retinol and retinyl palmitate are in the retinoid family. These forms of Vitamin A are very different however. Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid: a saturated fatty acids that comes from palm oil.

Retinol penetrates into the skin and is known to help acne and aging, while retinyl palmitate does not penetrate as well and may have dangerous side effects. Retinyl palmitate is found in many skin care product that claim they have retinol because it is cheaper than retinol. It is better for you to use skin care products with retinol instead of retinyl palmitate products.

We can help you find the best skin care products for your Baumann Skin Type. Why guess what products are safe to use when we can give you specific advice from our dermatologists? We take all of this into account when we design your skin care routine and give you product options from many different brands.

All you need to do is take the skin type quiz.

Is retinyl palmitate safer than retinol?

Retinol is much safer than retinyl palmitate.

Dangers of retinyl palmitate

Toxicity

Retinyl Palmitate was the subject of a controversial summer 2010 report by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) in which the organization warned of possible photocarcinogenicity associated with RP-containing sunscreens. The EWG rates it as a 9 on the safe scale (1 being the most safe or “best”) and 10 being the least safe or “worst”).

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) deemed vitamin A in cosmetics safe at concentrations of 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) for body lotion and 0.3% RE for other leave-on and rinse-off products in 2005. (18) However, when considering the overall exposure to vitamin A from all sources, including food and supplements, the SCCS could not reach a definitive conclusion due to inconsistencies in model calculations. They highlighted a concern for the segment of the population (5%) with the highest exposure levels to vitamin A, as their intake from food and supplements might already exceed the recommended upper limit. The addition of vitamin A from cosmetics could potentially increase this risk, although cosmetics contribute less to total vitamin A exposure compared to food sources. The SCCS stated that determining maximum concentration limits for cosmetics that account for other sources of exposure falls outside its remit, implying that managing the risk associated with total vitamin A intake is a broader issue that extends beyond cosmetic products alone.

When is it ok to use retinyl palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is safer in these situations:

Used at night and washed off in the am

When used in the daytime and covered by sunscreen

When it is in a very low concentration in a skin care product and not much of the product is used but we do not know what a safe amount is. (12)

When it is in a product like a cleanser that is rinsed off before going in the sun

Use it over an antioxidant serum to neutralize any free radicals

Retinoids and Cancer

The vitamin A family includes retinyl esters, retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and oral Accutane in addition to four carotenoids, including beta-carotene, many of which have been shown to prevent or protect against cancer (1,2,3,4,5, ) That does not mean that Retinyl Palmitate prevents cancer just because oral retinol, beta-carotene, or tretinoin have been shown to. In fact, the study that the EWG refers to shows evidence that RP may lead to skin tumors in mice.

retinyl palmitate turns dangerous in the sun

Why Does Retinyl Palmitate Turn Dangerous in the Sun?

Of the eight in vitro studies published by the FDA from 2002–2009, four revealed that reactive oxygen species were produced by retinyl palmitate after UVA exposure. (6,7,8,9,10)

Even though it seems clear that retinyl palmitate leads to free radicals, it is still not known if it causes cancer in human skin.

Using Sunscreen with Retinyl Palmitate

Sunscreens such as Avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate have been shown to stabilize the breakdown of retinyl palmitate that occurs with UV exposure. (11) So if you must use a retinyl ester like retinyl palmitate, use it with a sunscreen.

Side effects of retinyl palmitate

As with all retinoids, retinyl palmitate can cause:

redness

scaling

peeling

itching

Our Dermatologist Tips and Recommendations about retinyl palmitate and retinol esters

In 1997, Duell et al. showed that retinol is more effective at penetrating into human skin in than retinyl palmitate. (13) So there is really no reason to use retinyl palmitate when you can use retinol instead! The slow penetration of RP into the skin allows RP to remain on the skin long enough to undergo a photoreaction and generate reactive oxygen species (Free radicals). These reactive oxygen species or free radicals can theoretically lead to increased skin cancer.

In light of the controversy swirling around RP, the appropriate concern it has caused, and the weight of evidence, I advise patients to avoid daytime use of products with retinyl palmitate high on the ingredient list. I feel that it poses real risks while offering minimal benefits.

Use retinol, tretinoin adapalene, tazarotene or trifarotene instead

Use retinoids at night

Retinyl palmitate does not penetrate very well into the skin. Consequently, for cosmetic topical retinoid formulations, I recommend retinol instead. That said, sufficient evidence to establish a definite causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced.

Looking for the best products for your skin type? Shop by your Baumann Skin Type and stop wasting money on the wrong skin care products.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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