What shouldn’t be used in conjunction with AHAs and BHAs?
If you don’t use AHAs or BHAs in your skincare routine, you may have heard of these chemical exfoliants. Both of these acidic groups have significant positive effects on the skin.
What are AHAs?
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are chemical exfoliants that cleanse the surface of the skin of dead skin cells, dirt, debris, bacteria, and other impurities.
These can cause problems such as pimples, acne, blemishes, and dull, dry complexions.
The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids, which are found in many popular skincare products such as toners and serums.
They are also effective in combating signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage.
AHAs are generally fairly large in molecular size. This means that they don’t penetrate into the lower layers of the skin and therefore don’t cause severe irritation.
What are BHAs?
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are similar to AHAs and generally have similar exfoliating properties.
The main difference is that BHAs are not as readily available in over-the-counter products as AHAs, but are used in professional treatments such as chemical peels.
The most commonly used BHA is salicylic acid. Like the other acids mentioned, it removes dead skin cells and other impurities from the skin.
However, compared to AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble and has a smaller molecule size. This allows it to penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess sebum, dirt, and bacteria.
Now that you have a summary of the effects of these valuable acids on the skin, let’s take a closer look and see what you should not use in conjunction with AHAs and BHAs.
What should you avoid after using AHAs and BHAs?
The following skin care products should not be used after using AHAs and BHAs:
Vitamin C
Retinol
Benzoyl peroxide
Physical peels
This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use all of these active ingredients at the same time, it just means that you should alternate the times you use them.
Ideally, you should wait about 40 minutes between applications to rebalance the pH of your skin and prepare it for subsequent products.
Don’t rush into introducing new ingredients or products, especially if they already work well for you.
Choose skincare products that complement each other and help you reap the benefits of an effective skincare routine.
What can I combine with AHAs and BHAs?
Since both BHAs and AHAs exfoliate the skin, it’s recommended to combine them with moisturizing and nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalene, or glycerin.
These ingredients moisturize the skin and act as a soothing and calming agent after exfoliation.
This allows fresh skin cells to reveal themselves, which often need support to stay healthy and protected from free radical damage from UV rays, pollution, and other harmful environmental influences.
If you’re concerned about applying active skincare products on top of each other, it’s best to do a 24-hour patch test. To do this, apply 0.10 grams of the product to your forearm.
After 24 hours, if irritation is no longer present, you can apply the product to your face.
Can I use niacinamide after an AHA and BHA treatment?
Yes, it’s possible. However, it is important to note the best time of day to avoid unwanted irritation or reactions.
Depending on which products contain AHAs or BHAs, you can determine the right time to use niacinamide in your skincare routine.
The general rule of skin care is to apply products from thinnest to thickest to avoid forming a barrier on the surface of the skin that prevents the product from penetrating the skin.
Niacinamide is usually found in serums or moisturizers used later in your skincare routine. This leaves enough time to use a facial toner rich in AHAs, such as glycolic acid.
It can remove dead skin cells before niacinamide regulates sebum production and retains moisture in a protective barrier.
Beauty Insiders has a dedicated blog post on how to combine AHAs and BHAs with niacinamide. Be sure to read it if you want to learn more.
Can you combine AHAs and BHAs with hyaluronic acid?
Absolutely! Hyaluronic acid is one of the few ingredients that can be combined with almost any other active ingredient, even active ingredients like BHAs and salicylic acid.
For the best results and no signs of drying from AHAs or BHAs You’ll often find serums that have both exfoliants and hyaluronic acid in their formulas. This is the best of both worlds.
You can also layer the different products together to achieve the same hydrating and rejuvenating effects.
If you want to learn more about the best combinations of hyaluronic acid and BHA, read our blog post which goes into more detail.
Learn more about what not to mix with AHAs and BHAs. Although it may seem complicated at first, you’ll notice a noticeable improvement in your skin as you learn more.
Once you have a set skincare routine, you may be nervous about introducing new products because of the possibility of skin irritation.
However, stay consistent and introduce new ingredients slowly. Also, always check with your doctor or dermatologist to make sure you and your skin love your products.
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DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
