What are “natural” skin care products? Are they really better for you?
It seems like everyone is interested in pure beauty right now. You see it on social media, where influencers claim their skin looks better than ever thanks to using natural products.
You see it on store shelves, where countless products are advertised with beautiful pictures of plants and phrases like “non-toxic.”
The natural skin care market is expected to nearly double in size from 2021 to 2030, reaching $12.27 billion, according to a 2022 market study from Brainy Insights.
The problem is that the term “natural” is pretty vague.
“There is no formal system that regulates ‘natural’ and there is no legal definition of the term,” says Dr. Marissa Garcik, a dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology in New York City. “This becomes complicated for consumers because companies can claim a product is natural even if it contains ingredients that aren’t considered natural,” she says.
What Choosing “Natural” Skin Care Products Really Expects
Terms like “nontoxic” or “natural” often indicate that a product is free of synthetic chemicals that can cause health problems or lead to skin irritation (or both) in many people, says Dr. Jennifer Chwalek.
Those chemicals include fragrances, dyes, and certain preservatives like parabens, she says. But that’s more of a consumer perception than a promise.
“Natural” or “organic” doesn’t guarantee a product is healthier, safer, or better for your skin.
“Those terms don’t mean it’s hypoallergenic,” says Dr. Rebecca Kazin, a dermatologist and assistant professor in the department of dermatology at Johns Hopkins School of Medicine in Baltimore.
(A “hypoallergenic” label indicates a lower risk of allergic reaction, according to the FDA.) Also, natural products don’t automatically help sensitive skin.
“If a patient has a skin problem, I might recommend a product whose ingredients I understand and the patient isn’t allergic to,” Dr. Kazin says.
After all, herbal ingredients can always cause irritation, Dr. Garshick says.
Poison ivy is a classic example. While no one is making a salve out of poison ivy, natural products often contain essential oils that can trigger similar skin reactions.
Two common culprits: limonene and bitter orange, says Dr. Chwalek. Bergamot oil can make skin more sensitive to sunlight, she adds.
But do skincare ingredients really penetrate the skin? Another big question is whether the ingredients in skincare products, “natural” or not, make it into the body.
“Many of the molecules in skincare ingredients are too large to penetrate the skin.
However, science has gotten smarter and is finding ways to manipulate the skin to allow more molecules to penetrate, thereby increasing efficacy,” says Kazin.
One advantage is that this can ultimately reduce the concentration of active ingredients.
On the other hand, advocates of clean beauty point out that particles that penetrate the skin can cause systemic damage.
While the FDA considers some of these questionable ingredients, including phthalates and parabens, safe, studies show they are potential endocrine disruptors
Chemicals that affect hormone levels and may increase the risk of cancer or fertility issues, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG).
It’s often said that these ingredients are illegal to use in Europe.
In fact, the European Union has banned five parabens, but allows certain parabens in small amounts. U.S. authorities currently allow the use of 20 parabens or paraben-like chemicals.
More questions about skincare ingredients
Despite legitimate concerns, there are still many unknowns about the chemicals used in skincare.
“The question is at what concentration or exposure level do these chemicals cause problems,” Chwalek says.
Many of these studies have been done on rodents exposed to much higher-than-normal concentrations. So further research is needed, Garshik says.
Plus, these ingredients are used in a variety of other products (including food). So the question becomes how this fits into the big picture of overall burden—and what exactly that means.
Unfortunately, we don’t have all the answers yet. In the meantime, you can choose skincare products that match your values, skincare goals, and budget.
Natural ingredients can be effective, our dermatologists say, but natural or organic products can also be expensive.
If these products don’t fit your budget, you can work with your dermatologist to find alternatives that work for your skin.
“Natural” Skin Care Glossary: Terms and Definitions
5-Free: You may see these and similar terms, such as 7-Free, 10-Free, and 15-Free, on nail polish labels from brands that claim to be nontoxic.
These numbers indicate the number of chemicals the polish does not contain. For example, “5-free” nail polish contains no formaldehyde, toluene, dibutyl phthalate, formaldehyde resin, camphor.
However, there is debate over whether these “5-free” products are safer for consumers, according to Harvard Medical School.
Organic: Contrary to what you might think, the FDA does not regulate “organic” labels on cosmetics or skin care products.
However, if a formula is made with agricultural ingredients, it can be certified organic under the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Organic Program (NOP).
To be certified USDA organic, a product must contain at least 95% organic ingredients. Products labeled “made with organic ingredients” contain at least 70% organic ingredients, but may not have the seal.
Paraben-free: According to the FDA, parabens are preservatives designed to prevent the growth of bacteria and mold in products.
They are listed as methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.
The FDA says that while research is ongoing, “there is no information currently to support the conclusion that parabens used in cosmetics have any effects on human health.”
Products labeled “paraben-free” do not contain parabens.
PFAS-free: According to the FDA, the abbreviation stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAs).
These chemicals are added to some lotions, cleansers, nail polishes, shaving creams, and makeup to smooth the skin, add radiance, or improve the texture of the product.
Some data suggests that PFAS levels in cosmetics are safe for humans. However, the FDA says the data is limited and more information is needed to truly assess their safety.
Phthalate-free Phthalate-free is a chemical that, according to the FDA, is found in a variety of household items, including personal care products like soaps and shampoos.
Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is commonly used in fragrances. The FDA has not found these ingredients to have any harmful properties.
However, if you want to avoid them, you can find “phthalate-free” on the labels of products that don’t use phthalates.
Sulfate-free Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, are essentially soaps. However, the clinical term for this is “surfactant.”
According to Cosmeticsinfo.org, they help ingredients like oils and water mix together. As such, they are found in shampoos and other bath additives.
If the label says “sulfate-free,” it means the product does not contain sulfates.
Nontoxic or non-toxic: According to the EWG, companies use this term to “indicate the safety of a product.”
However, the term is not regulated, and as the European Economic Community (EEC) points out, even large amounts of water can be toxic.
The point is: this is just an advertising claim and does not guarantee safety.
How to Make the Switch to “Clean Beauty”
If you’re interested in the natural cosmetics movement, you need to be well-informed.
“The challenge is reading between the lines on the label and knowing exactly what you’re putting on your skin,” Garshick says. Here’s how to get started:
Talk to your dermatologist. Put all the products you use in a bag and bring it with you to your next appointment.
He or she will review the ingredients and tell you if anything is irritating your skin or if there’s a way to optimize your routine. This is recommended regardless of what products you use.
Start slowly. If you change everything at once and have a reaction, you won’t know what caused it. Garshick recommends introducing one new product per week at most.
Be patient and wait for results. If you’ve used conventional skin care products before and are now switching to natural products, it may take longer until you see changes in your skin, Garshick says. That doesn’t mean the product isn’t effective, but it’s worth keeping the waiting period in mind, she says.
Pay attention to the specific ingredients. Garshick says willow bark extract, a derivative of salicylic acid, can help treat breakouts.
If you want to reverse or slow the signs of skin aging, antioxidants (like those found in vitamin C or vitamin E or from various plants) can help prevent DNA damage that breaks down collagen.
New on the market is bakuchiol: “It’s the best alternative to retinol/retinoids we’ve found,” she says.
Retinoids have long been considered the gold standard for anti-aging because they stimulate collagen production, which can smooth fine lines, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
Try clean beauty brands. Companies and products that use natural ingredients and that Garshick personally admires include Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum ($78, Sephora.com);
Good Science Beauty Moisturizing Face Cream ($78, GoodScienceBeauty.com) and The Ordinary line of cleansers, peptides and retinoids (starting at $4.20, TheOrdinary.com).
Chwalek adds Eminence Organics, True Botanicals, Biossance, and Pratima to this list.
Do your research. Chwalek says the Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) Skin Deep database is a good source for understanding product ingredients.
In May 2020, the EWG also released a report on the “12 Toxic Chemicals and Contaminants in Cosmetics.”
The good news is that many of these chemicals are rarely used in cosmetics today or are banned or restricted by major retailers, Chwalek says.
Your chart will be helpful when researching ingredients and deciding if there are any chemicals you want to avoid.
