For many of us, skin care is never easy. It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed when you’re strolling down the aisles of Boots and seeing everything from AHAs to antioxidant serums, and don’t even get me started on retinols,
retinaldehydes and retinoids.
Since I’m a beauty writer, I signed up to delve into the ins and outs of each ingredient. But no matter how many products I choose and try, I always end up choosing variations of the same three products. Enter: CSA.
What is a CSA Skin Care Routine? The CSA skincare philosophy is championed by skincare brand Medik8, and in my opinion, it’s the perfect daily routine. It revolves around the use of vitamin C, SPF, and vitamin A (also known as
retinol), hence the abbreviation CSA.
However, CSA skin care routines are nothing new. Medik8 first introduced this method in 2009 and have been using it ever since, making skin care easier for many people. So far, it seems to be working.
“These three steps show how important it is to reduce the amount of skin care products you buy and take a more practical approach to skin care,” explains dermatologist Sonia Khorana. According to No7, 75% of women only use one
third of their skincare routine, which is good for our faces and our finances.
“I often talk about the benefits of ‘skinism’ and how you don’t need a 10-step skincare routine to see the benefits,” adds Dr. Sonia added, and I have to agree.
My bathroom shelves may be overflowing with lotions and potions (many of which are great), but my must-haves make up a small percentage and almost always fall into those three letters.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C was bought by my desert island beauty. “First and foremost, it’s a powerful antioxidant,” explains Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8.
Daniel explains that vitamin C neutralizes harmful free radicals from the sun and the environment, preventing them from attacking skin cells and causing signs of skin damage.
Since using a few drops of Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe (£59) every morning for about a year, my face has never looked brighter, smoother or even-toned. This makes sense because Dr. Sonia explains that vitamin C “helps improve
pigmentation, uneven skin tone, rebuilds collagen, and protects skin from environmental stress and damage.”
Used together, it can even enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen. SPF: We’ve all realized the importance of sunscreen, so it’s certainly the most important step in any skincare routine. “Sunscreen should be worn every day to
protect against UV rays,” Daniel explains.
“UVA rays, in particular, are available year-round and can penetrate clouds and glass.” So, yes, even if you’re sitting at a desk by a window, you might want to consider investing in a high-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen. Apply
spectrum sunscreen.
Personally, my sunscreen application needs work. If you’re spending your day indoors, whether working from home or taking the subway to the office, it may seem like a pointless step. But experts suggest that’s not the case.
So it’s important to find one that’s really interesting. excellent! Mattescreen, £34, is my favourite, but I usually replace it after every use. Also try Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF30, £14.99, and Medik8
Advanced Day Ultimate Protect SPF50 PA++++, £59.
Vitamin A: The third and final step in the CSA concept is vitamin A, also known as retinol, which Dr. Sonya describes as a “skin superhero that can help rebuild collagen, lighten pigmentation, address texture irregularities and
[improve] Oil control.”
People’s love for this ingredient seems endless, but it also has some drawbacks. Puffy skin (in the form of breakouts), redness, and dry skin are all side effects of retinol. But Medik8 has options for almost every skin type,
even the most sensitive ones. Full instructions can be found here.
“Medik8’s motto is: take your time, take your time,” says Daniel, who recommends using a low concentration of retinal. Retinaldehyde belongs to the retinoid family and works faster than the classic form of retinol.
“There is a wealth of published research supporting its effectiveness,” Daniel says, recognizing retinaldehyde’s collagen-boosting properties, adding that it renews the skin, giving it a more even tone and texture.
Daniel compares this to prescription skin care that can only be obtained from a dermatologist. Work the ingredients into your skin slowly so as not to overwhelm it. Daniel recommends using an encapsulated retinal, such as Medik8
0.03% Crystal Retinal, £49.
Encapsulation usually means that the retinaldehyde is wrapped in moisturizing ingredients like skin-loving oils, making it a better choice for those with sensitive skin. Medik8 also means that retinal is not affected by the
environment and therefore is more effective.
Use twice a week in the evening for the first two weeks, then every other night for the next two weeks while preparing for nighttime use. Once your skin accepts the molecule without any irritation, you can switch to a higher
strength to maximize results.
Following advice from about six months ago, I now use Medik8 0.06% Crystal Retinal, £66, twice a week and my skin has never looked better. The fine lines that were starting to appear have diminished, uneven texture has been
smoothed, and my pores are less noticeable than before.
Retinol Serum, £21. final thoughts It’s taken me years to find a skincare routine that not only works, but takes less than five minutes morning and night, and I think I’ve finally nailed it with this three-step process. The
only products not included in the CSA method are cleansers and night creams (I’m currently using the new No7 Future Renew Night Cream, £34) or eye creams.
If you want to include the latter, it could definitely fall under the vitamin C or even retinol category, especially if you’re fully committed to the cause. Of course, any skin care brand will do, no matter your budget. What
about other skin care products? Well, you don’t have to throw away your hyaluronic acid serum just yet. “In my opinion, these three ingredients (CSA) are absolute must-haves for any skincare routine, and you can build on them
based on your specific skin concerns,” explains Dr. Sonia. “If someone has acne-prone skin, they may need to add a toner or salicylic acid product to address their issues,” she adds.
Likewise, people with very dry skin may need to use a rich moisturizer before applying SPF or after applying retinol. “People with rosacea-prone skin may need lower levels of vitamin A,” adds Dr. Sonia, for dull skin, some
people may want to use a glycolic acid product instead of retinol. This explains how to tailor the three-step process to your needs. If a simple yet effective skin care routine is on your wish list this season, it’s a sign
that sometimes less is more.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
