Skin Therapist Describes Moisturizing Mistakes You Might Be Making
“Just use a moisturizer” – Honestly, it seems like a pretty simple task, but have you ever tried just buying a moisturizer? (It’s as overwhelming as being forced to pick out a new nail polish at a nail salon.) Not to mention how irritated your skin will be if you choose the wrong nail polish.
The moisturizer you choose and use for your skin is important. Plus, it’s not a skincare product that you can just throw away in your daily life. Skin loves moisture, and a good moisturizer can help you replenish moisture to your skin and prevent it from evaporating.
Yes, you still need to use a moisturizer even if you have an oilier skin type, all skin types need a moisturizer. You just need to find a solution that solves your problem. For a skin therapist, that’s easier said than done. I want to share with you some important things to consider when buying the right moisturizer.
First of all, the word “moisturizer” can be used to describe several different consistencies, including: gels, creams, and even occlusive ointments. However, the emollient properties of these products ensure that your skin stays soft.
If you have drier or more sensitive skin, you should go for an occlusive ointment, while creams (which may have a higher oil content) are suitable for most skin types, and lighter gels (usually water-based) are better for skin that tends to produce more oil or is prone to acne/congestion.
If that wasn’t confusing enough, you can also switch up the type of moisturizer you use morning and night based on personal preference. But not everyone has to do this. Only if you like it and it fits your budget and lifestyle.
I would like to mention here that the term “night cream” is mainly used as a marketing ploy and has no real meaning, unless your “night cream” contains active ingredients like vitamin A. Aside from the fact that these night creams may contain a higher concentration of ingredients to provide more hydration before bed, it is important to note that the term “night cream” is mainly used as a marketing ploy and has no real meaning.
So what should we look for in a moisturizer?
Dry skin: You can go for a richer moisturizer with ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid to draw moisture into the skin, as well as occlusive ingredients that may contain lanolin or petrolatum to lock in moisture.
Oily skin: You may prefer a water-based gel with ingredients like clover flower extract, which balances oil production. Even mild alpha hydroxy acids can be beneficial for these skin types.
All skin types can benefit from additional anti-aging ingredients like antioxidants and/or ceramides, or even soothing ingredients like green tea and/or niacinamide and licorice root.
Sensitive skin should avoid fragrance.
Ps. Moisturizers with SPF 30+ or higher are ideal for mornings (also for those who are pressed for time).
But what about common hydration mistakes?
If you feel like you’re using the right moisturizer but a) still break out or b) feel like it’s not working, there could be a number of reasons:
Maybe you’re using too much hydration and the wrong products and/or layering too many things on top of each other. This can lead to blackheads, clogged pores, uneven skin, and even excess oil production. This is the most common problem with oily skin, as too much hydration can lead to excess sebum production. (Proper cleansing and makeup removal, as well as proper exfoliation, are important components here. Your skin can only absorb so much!)
If milia form from your moisturizer, it’s a sign that your moisturizer is too heavy for your skin and you need to switch to a lighter product. (You also shouldn’t try to “squeeze” these spots; they will go away on their own. If not, it’s best to have them removed at a clinic.)
Your other skincare may not be working. You may be using too many irritating active ingredients, so your skin barrier is compromised. Maybe you’re not using the right products, or even over- or under-exfoliating, which means your skincare can’t absorb properly and work as it should.
Moisturize only with a humectant or occlusive. Most skin types need both.
However, we can’t always blame our products. Lifestyle and diet play a role in how hydrated and moisturized your skin is. So it’s best to seek expert advice before changing your product range and routine.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
