Can some cosmetic ingredients pollute our oceans and cause coral reef bleaching?
The short answer is sadly yes.
Besides the huge problem of excessive plastic packaging ending up in our waterways and oceans, we have had in the past years a few clear signs that the issue is way deeper than packaging, and this is due in small part to the beauty and personal care industry.
Let us take a closer look at some skincare ingredients potentially polluting our oceans and what less harmful alternatives are currently available.
UVA / UVB Filters
Sunscreens are chemicals or minerals that absorb or reflect ultraviolet sunlight radiation; they are widely used in many skincare products to protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays. Sunscreens are classified in:
Organic filters (= chemical) They absorb radiation and then dissipate the absorbed energy.
Inorganic filters (= mineral) They reflect UV radiation.
The issue
Both organic and some inorganic filters can reach the marine environment directly (wash-off from the skin when swimming) and the coral reef.
Organic UV filters have been found in several aquatic organisms from marine invertebrates to mammals and even dolphins! Over time, they accumulate in the muscle tissue and fat deposits of these animals and therefore are likely to enter marine food chain.
Nano-Zinc Oxide, an inorganic mineral filter, is toxic for marine life such as algae, sea urchins and other marine organism.
Some UV filters can cause coral bleaching at extremely low concentrations. It is well known that coral mortality main cause is linked to increased water temperature; however, organic UV filters accelerate both coral disease and mortality because they produce significant amounts of Hydrogen peroxide and even phytoplankton (a key element of the marine food chain) can be affected. In 2020, on average, 15% of coral cover remains bleached white. *
The solution
Avoid sunscreens formulated with:
❌ oxybenzone
❌ avobenzone
❌ octocrylene
❌ enzacamene
❌ homosalate
❌ nano zinc oxide
Prefer sunscreens formulated with:
👉🏻 non-nano zinc oxide
👉🏻 non-nano titanium dioxide
Plastic microbeads
Plastic Microbeads are used in personal care products such as:
Body Scrubs
Face Exfoliants
Bubble Bath / Shower gel
Soaps
Glitter
The issue
Plastic Microbeads are too small to be trapped in the sewage treatment plants. They enter the waterways via domestic drainage systems and then get transported to the oceans.
Depending on the type of plastic and density, microbeads either accumulate on the seabed or float on the sea surface. Full plastic degradation can take hundreds of years (take PET, which degrades in 450 years) so invisible plastic microparticles can be ingested by aquatic organisms.
The solution
Buy cosmetics made with natural and biodegradable microbeads alternatives such as:
biodegradable hydrogenated oils waxes like jojoba beads
grounded kernels or shells (coconut, apricot, walnut…)
diatomaceous earth
charcoal
Triclosan (TCS)
In the past years, the use of hand sanitizers and antibacterial hand soaps (especially from the onset of Corona Virus in early 2020) has increased dramatically.
One inexpensive antibacterial ingredient and preservative largely used in personal care products, Triclosan (TCS), is also on the watch list of marine pollutants. It is used for:
antibacterial hand soaps
anti-acne products
sanitizing hand gels
antibacterial wipes
cleaning and sanitizing products
The issue
TCS is discharged via domestic sewage; during the wastewater treatment process, it can also be converted into chlorinated derivatives, even more toxic compounds.
In high concentration, TCS accumulates in algae, marine mussels, and marine mammals and it is considered toxic.
The solution
Some essential oils have good antibacterial properties (Skin application: Tea Tree, Lemon Tea Tree, Lemongrass, Peppermint, Manuka, Kanuka, Fragonia, Orange, Palmarosa. Inhalation: Thyme, Clove, Eucalyptus, Oregano, Cinnamon) **
Silver Citrate and Citric Acid
Alcohol (isopropyl alcohol)
At Native Essentials being sustainable and eco-friendly is important: from the sourcing of each ingredients to the formulations and packaging. We will never use any natural ingredient that is not from a sustainable source, that is not thoroughly tested, and that is not 100% safe for the environment, including our oceans.
SOLE is an exfoliant made with fully biodegradable (hydrogenated) Jojoba beads and activated charcoal beads.
KORU is a gentle antibacterial dry face oil formulated with essential oils (Lemon Tea Tree, Manuka, Kanuka, Lemon Myrtle, Fragonia)
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.