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Skincare Science: Surfactants and Their Role in Cleansing
Skin Care

Skincare Science: Surfactants and Their Role in Cleansing

16 May 2025


Surfactants, Detergents, and Cleansing Agents in Skincare: A Comprehensive Guide

Cleansing is one of the most fundamental steps in any skincare routine. Whether it’s removing makeup, sunscreen, excess sebum, or environmental pollutants, a good cleanser sets the stage for healthy skin.

At the heart of nearly all cleansers lie surfactants—chemical agents responsible for lifting and removing impurities from the skin and hair.

These compounds are often referred to as detergents or cleansing agents, and their effectiveness, gentleness, and compatibility with different skin types largely determine the overall performance of a skincare product.

In this comprehensive article, we’ll explore the roles of surfactants in cleansers, the science behind how they work, the various categories of surfactants, and their impact on different skin types.

We’ll also look at the relationship between surfactants and water hardness, and review examples of specific ingredients used in popular cleansing formulations. Understanding the chemistry of these compounds can help consumers make better-informed choices when selecting the right products for their skin.

What Are Surfactants and Why Are They Important in Cleansing?

Surfactants, short for “surface-active agents,” are amphiphilic molecules composed of two distinct parts: a hydrophilic (water-attracting) head and a hydrophobic (oil-attracting) tail.

This unique structure enables surfactants to interact with both water and oil.

When applied to the skin in a cleanser, surfactants surround oil-based debris such as sebum, makeup, and sunscreen, forming microscopic structures called micelles.

These micelles trap dirt and oil within their hydrophobic core, allowing impurities to be rinsed away with water.

Without surfactants, simply splashing water on the face would be insufficient to remove the oily residues and environmental grime that accumulate throughout the day.

Surfactants enable water to do the job more effectively by lowering its surface tension and increasing its ability to dissolve lipophilic (oil-loving) substances.

How Surfactants Work: The Micelle Mechanism

When a cleanser containing surfactants is massaged onto damp skin, the surfactant molecules align to form micelles.

The hydrophobic tails face inward, trapping oily dirt, while the hydrophilic heads remain on the outside, interacting with the surrounding water.

Upon rinsing, the micelles and their contents are lifted off the skin and carried away.

The efficiency of this process is influenced by the type of surfactant used, its concentration, the pH of the formulation, and the characteristics of the water (such as hardness or softness).

Surfactants can be optimized for different purposes—some offer deep cleansing, while others are better suited for gentle, daily use.

Types of Surfactants: Classification by Electrical Charge

Surfactants are classified into different categories based on the electrical charge of their hydrophilic head.

Each category has unique properties that influence its cleansing power, potential for irritation, and compatibility with different skin types.

1. Anionic Surfactants

These surfactants carry a negative charge and are known for their excellent cleansing and foaming properties.

They are particularly effective at removing oils and heavy-duty impurities, which makes them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.

Examples: Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate.

Pros: High foaming, effective oil removal.

Cons: Can be harsh, strip natural oils, and disrupt the skin barrier.

Sulfates, a subgroup of anionic surfactants, are among the most potent but potentially irritating ingredients.

Their strong cleansing power can lead to dryness, irritation, or disruption of the skin’s lipid barrier, especially in sensitive or dry skin types.

2. Nonionic Surfactants

These molecules have no charge on their hydrophilic head, making them gentler and less irritating.

They are typically used in formulations designed for sensitive or dry skin, as well as in baby products and leave-on skincare items.

Examples: Decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, polysorbate 20, glycereth-2 cocoate.

Pros: Gentle, less likely to irritate, suitable for barrier-compromised skin.

Cons: Lower foaming and cleansing power compared to anionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants are often used in combination with other surfactants to create balanced formulas that cleanse effectively while maintaining skin hydration and comfort.

3. Amphoteric Surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants can carry either a positive or negative charge, depending on the pH of their environment.

This gives them versatile functionality and makes them less irritating, even at higher concentrations.

Examples: Cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

Pros: Mild, pH-sensitive, compatible with both anionic and nonionic surfactants.

Cons: Moderate cleansing ability; sometimes used as secondary surfactants.

These surfactants are particularly valued for their ability to stabilize foam and reduce irritation when used in combination with harsher surfactants.

4. Cationic Surfactants

These surfactants have a positive charge, which makes them excellent at binding to negatively charged surfaces like hair and skin.

While commonly used in conditioners and disinfectants, they are rarely included in facial cleansers due to their high irritation potential.

Examples: Benzalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide.

Pros: Antimicrobial, good for hair conditioning.

Cons: Can be irritating to the skin, especially with frequent use.

Because of their bonding nature, cationic surfactants tend to linger on the skin or hair, which is beneficial for conditioning but not for facial cleansing.

5. Natural Surfactants (Saponins)

Saponins are naturally occurring plant-based surfactants found in herbs and roots.

They gently cleanse the skin without synthetic chemicals and are often included in natural and organic skincare formulations.

Examples: Soapwort extract, soapnut (Sapindus mukorossi), quillaja bark extract.

Pros: Eco-friendly, mild, ideal for dry or sensitive skin.

Cons: Weaker cleansing action, foam stability can be low, limited oil-removing ability.

Surfactant Behavior in Hard vs. Soft Water

The effectiveness of surfactants can vary dramatically depending on water hardness.

Hard Water: Contains high levels of calcium and magnesium, which can bind to anionic surfactants and reduce their effectiveness.

This leads to soap scum formation and can leave a residue on the skin.

Soft Water: Lacks interfering minerals, allowing surfactants to work optimally, resulting in better foam and improved cleansing.

To address issues related to hard water, many formulations include chelating agents like EDTA or citric acid to bind the minerals and maintain surfactant performance.

Sulfate-Free Cleansers: Why They’re Popular

Sulfate-free cleansers are becoming increasingly popular for a good reason.

Traditional sulfates like SLS are known for causing irritation, especially in individuals with eczema, rosacea, or a compromised skin barrier. As a result, many formulations now use milder alternatives such as:

Cocamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric)

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (syndet)

Decyl glucoside (nonionic)

These ingredients offer effective cleansing without the downsides associated with sulfates.

Sulfate-free products are particularly beneficial for people with sensitive skin, children, or anyone undergoing dermatological treatments.

Syndets: Synthetic Detergents for Modern Skincare

Syndet is short for synthetic detergent. These surfactants are man-made and designed to mimic the cleansing ability of soap while being far gentler on the skin.

Most syndets are pH-balanced and do not interact negatively with water minerals.

Common Syndets: Sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl glutamate.

Best For: Dry, sensitive, or mature skin.

Popular Products: Dove Beauty Bar, Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser.

Because of their formulation flexibility and minimal irritation, syndets are widely used in dermatology-recommended cleansers.

Choosing the Right Cleanser Based on Surfactant Type

Your skin type plays a critical role in determining which surfactant-based cleanser will work best for you.

Skin Type Recommended Surfactants

Oily/Acne-Prone Anionic + Amphoteric (e.g., Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate + Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Dry/Sensitive Nonionic or Syndet (e.g., Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

Combination Blend of Amphoteric and Nonionic

Mature Skin Nonionic + Syndet, low pH formulations

Barrier-Impaired Avoid sulfates, use gentle syndets, amphoteric surfactants only

Summary: Finding the Balance in Cleanser Formulations

Understanding the science behind surfactants enables smarter skincare decisions. The choice of surfactant can significantly influence how a cleanser feels, performs, and impacts your skin over time.

Anionic surfactants = Strong but potentially drying

Nonionic surfactants = Gentle

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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