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SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum : Dermatologist Review & How To Use
Beauty

SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum : Dermatologist Review & How To Use

28 January 2025


SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum : Dermatologist Review & How To Use




As a dermatologist, I am always on the lookout for innovative ingredients that can truly improve improve photoaging, wrinkles and skin texture. A new antiaging skincare product that caught my attention recently is SkinMedica’s TNS Advanced + Serum. In this blog post, I’ll explain what TNS is, how it works, and why it represents an exciting development in anti-aging skincare. I will also review how this is different from other TNS containing products.



Wondering if this antiaging serum is the best for your Baumann Skin Type? Take the skin type quiz to find out!




What is SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum?



This new generation serum by SkinMedica includes 450 total growth factors – more than any previous TNS formulation. The additional stem cell-derived growth factors in TNS Advanced+ boost collagen production and cellular activity even beyond original TNS.




In my experience, the lightweight, non-comedogenic TNS Advanced+ Serum performs extremely well for improving wrinkles, skin tone, and texture across all wrinkle-prone skin types. I advise my patients to layer it under retinol in their nighttime skincare routine for optimal anti-aging effects. Those with substantial photodamage on the neck, chest, and hands also see noticeable rejuvenation from consistent use. Overall, TNS Advanced+ represents the most comprehensive topical growth factor serum available to target aging concerns.



SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum Dermatologist Review




In my dermatology practice in Miami Florida, I use this serum to treat my patients often. I use it to treat wrinkle-prone skin types that have sensitive skin and cannot tolerate retinoids and Vitamin C. I skin cycle it in antiaging skin care routines to alternate with with other antiaging serums. Most of the patients I prescribe this to are 40+ years of age.



There are two main peptides in this serum:




Dimer Tripeptide -43 which is claimed to reduce skin sensitivity



Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2- which is claimed to improve sagging skin




To learn more about these peptides, look up the peptide name on this peptide in skincare list.



How To Use




One of the nice things about this antiaging growth factor serum is it does not irritate the skin so it can be used 2-3 times a day without any problems. It should be used at least 3 times a week to get results. Alternate it with retinoids and ascorbic acid in your antiaging skincare routine.



Skincare Routine




You want to make sure that you always layer skin care ingredients properly and use them in the correct step order of your routine. This will help the growth factors and other ingredients in this serum penetrate intact into the skin and have better results.



Morning or Night?




It does not matter which time of day you use SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum. In general, you want to use protective serums in the day and repair serums at night. As this is a repair serum, you can use it at n ight and use an antioxidant serum in the daytime. However, this has antioxidants in it so it can be used either time of day or both morning and night.



Before or After Moisturizer




Always use any antiaging serums before using a moisturizer. SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum should be used first with a face cream applied afterwards to help slug it into your skin.



Before or After Retinol

Retinol gets into the skin easily while growth factors often have trouble absorbing due to their large size. For this reason, at night you should apply SkinMedicaTNS Advanced + Serum before applying a retinol.

Before or After SkinMedica C + E Complex

It is not a good idea to use SkinMedica C + E Complex and SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum together because they both have trouble penetrating into the skin. It is a better idea to skin cycle these or use one in the am and another in the pm. If you choose to do the later, use the C + E in the morning and the TNS A+ at night.

Skin Benefits

TNS Advanced + does many good things for your skin.

Here is a list of the skin benefits of SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum:

Boosts collagen

Hydrates skin

Increases radiance

Prevents sagging

Smooths skin

Stabilizes the microbiome

Targets wrinkles

Ingredients in SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum

Water/Aqua/Eau

Pentylene Glycol

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media

Glycereth-7 Triacetate

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Glycerin

Ethoxydiglycol

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Whey Protein

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Dimer Tripeptide-43 – supports healthy immune system regulation to reduce skin sensitivity and reactivity

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Flower Cell Extract

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Propanediol

Xanthan Gum

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Sclerotium Gum

PEG-12 Dimethicone

Lecithin

Pullulan

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Polysorbate 20

Aminomethyl Propanol

Dextran

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol- preservative

Ethylhexylglycerin- preservative

Clinical Research Studies

Preclinical studies on the TNS-MR technology used in SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum showed A+ can reduce a biomarker of skin cell senescence, increase expression of genes involved in skin renewal processes like proteostasis, stem cell function, and cell communication, and upregulate genes for extracellular matrix proteins and epidermal barrier components.(6)

Targeting cellular senescence is the latest in skincare technology to make skin look and act younger.

This video explains what cellular senescence is. SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum seems to decrease the number of senescent cells, as evidenced by a decrease in senescent cell biomarkers. (6)

In 2023, a 24-week clinical trial tested SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum ( A+) on humans with aging skin. (6) The A+ antiaging serum containing human fibroblast conditioned media, peptides, botanicals, and marine extracts was compared to vehicle placebo. This double-blind, placebo-controlled trial enrolled 68 men and women aged 37-70 with moderate to severe facial photodamage. Subjects applied A+ serum to one side of the face and a placebo serum to the other side twice daily for 6 months. Starting at 2 weeks, A+ provided significant improvements in wrinkling, skin texture changes, sagging, tone, and photodamage versus baseline. It also showed significantly greater improvements than placebo in wrinkles at 4, 8, and 12 weeks; in photodamage, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, sagging and tone evenness at 8 and 12 weeks.

After switching from placebo to A+ at 12 weeks, subjects showed continued significant improvements in wrinkles, photodamage and sagging at 18 and 24 weeks. Patient-reported outcomes revealed subjects felt up to 6 years younger after using A+ for only 12 weeks. Skin biopsies detected molecular changes confirming reduced cell senescence, increased collagen, elastin and other extracellular matrix components, and improved epidermal barrier function.

This rigorous clinical trial provided evidence-based data that SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum significantly improves multiple facial skin aging parameters by targeting fundamental mechanisms of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging.

What is the Difference in TNS Advanced + Serum and the original SkinMedica TNS Products?

The A+ Serum has more antiaging ingredients than the original TNS products.

In chamber one, both products contain the patented TNS growth factors that SkinMedica is known for. TNS Recovery Complex in the Essential Serum contains TNS while the TNS Advanced+ Serum has TNS-MR.

The TNS-MR contains 450 growth factors, compared to the 380 that the TNS Essential Serum contains. This level-up translates into even faster results. While users of the essentials serum saw results in as little as 4 weeks users of TNS Advanced+ Serum reported visible results in just half that time!

Fans of the essential serum know that it has a a district bad smell and reddish hue from the proteins used in the formula. I have to say that the ‘new & improved’ formula is much better because it is colorless and odorless. Rather than simply covering up the protein odor with a fragrance, SkinMedica eliminated the scent altogether by reformulating the proteins directly, making it suitable for even the most sensitive noses!

Another improvement in the TNS formula is the increased use of peptides. Where the TNS Essential Serum includes just one tripeptide complex, the new TNS Advanced+ uses two. This gives the TNS Advanced+ Serum an even better ability to nourish skin and fade fine lines.

Chamber two of the TNS Advanced+ Serum contains a brand-new product, the Renessensce (RSC) Advanced. RSC addresses all key aging skin concerns and has been specifically formulated to support the results of the growth factor blend. RSC is a highly active blend that contains botanicals, marine extracts, and peptides.

Overall- SkinMedica TNS Advanced + is a better anti-wrinkle serum than it’s predecessors.

TNS Advanced + vs TNS Recovery Complex?

Let’s start with the difference between the original SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex and the new Advanced + Serum (also called A+). Of course, this comes down to the ingredients and the purposes they serve. The bottles and their signature dual-chambers may look similar, however the TNS Advanced+ Serum is truly a next generation product because it contains TNS-MR which has more types of growth factors.

There are ingredients found in the Advanced+ Serum that are not in TNS Recovery Complex:

TNS-MR-Includes human fibroblast conditioned media (growth factors) and peptides (Progeline and Prolixir S20) for skin repair and aging prevention.

Progeline (Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2): A peptide for skin repair.

Prolixir S20 (Dimer Tripeptide-43): A peptide for aging prevention.

Chlorella: A green microalgae for collagen synthesis.

Saccharide Isomerate: A plant-derived carbohydrate complex for hydration.

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract: For rejuvenation and hydration

Irritating and allergenic ingredients found in TNS Recovery Complex like phenoxyethanol, Hydroxycitronellal, and linalool have been removed. The new A+ serum does not have the same bad smell of the original TNS because the smelly proteins have been removed, obviating the need to additional fragrances. SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum is fragrance free and better for sensitive allergic skin types.

Help Me Choose the Best Antiaging Serum

Need help choosing a serum and wondering if SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum is the best choice for your skin type? Take our skincare routine quiz and we will tell you which products are best for you. Here we compare SkinMedica A+ Serum to other top-selling antiaging serums.

SkinMedica TNS Advance + Serum vs Skinceuticals C E Ferulic

Both of these are top selling antiaging serums. Which one is best to use in your antiaging skincare routine?

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic is one of the best Vitamin C Serums. It has ascorbic acid in the correct form and low pH which allows it to penetrate into skin. However, this low pH can cause skin stinging in sensitive skin types such as rosacea-prone skin . It does not have any growth factors or peptides in it. The ascorbic acid can help prevent skin pigmentation.

The SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum has the benefit of increasing skin collagen without irritating the skin. However, it does not have the ascorbic acid in it that your skin requires to make collagen, so I recommend cycling in a Vitamin C serum in your routine at least 3 times a week.

The Skinceuticals CE Ferulic is best for Baumann Skin Types that are Resistant and hyperpigmented. The SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum is better for sensitive skin types that do not have skin pigmentation issues.

Take the skincare quiz to see which is best for you.

Worth the Money?

Is SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum worth the price? It depends on your age, your skin’s needs, and underlying barriers to skin health.

This expensive serum can be fabulous if it is right for your Baumann Skin Type.

This serum is best for antiaging skincare routines in your 50s and older. When you are 50+ you make fewer growth factors and have more senescent cells. You can combine this with SkinMedica Retinol and SkinMedica Sunscreen for maximal results.

To find out if this antiaging serum is right for you, take the skin type quiz and find out:

Which Baumann Skin Type you are

What skincare routine steps are best for you

If SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ is a good antiaging serum for you

What other products to use together

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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