Sodium Polyglutamate in Skin Care

Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA) is a potent humectant derived from fermented soybeans, known for its exceptional moisture-retention abilities. This naturally occurring biopolymer has garnered significant attention in the skincare industry due to its superior hydration capabilities, which some studies suggest surpass even hyaluronic acid (HA). PGA’s unique molecular structure allows it to hold up to 5000 times its weight in water, making it a crucial ingredient for maintaining skin moisture. Beyond its hydrating properties, research has also indicated that PGA may inhibit hyaluronidase, the enzyme responsible for breaking down HA in the skin, thereby prolonging the presence of HA and enhancing overall skin hydration.

In this blog, we discuss PGAs abilities and why it is found in some luxury skincare brands. To find out which ingredients and products are best for your skin, take our skin type quiz and you can shop using your skin type.

Intensely hydrating

Binds 5000x it’s weight in water

Blocks breakdown of hyaluronic acid

Found in humectant moisturizers

What is Sodium Polyglutamate in Skin Care?

Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA) is a powerful skincare ingredient composed of repeating units of the amino acid glutamic acid. This biopolymer is primarily derived from the fermentation of soybeans, where specific bacteria synthesize it as part of their metabolic processes.

How it Works

Sodium polyglutamate’s ability to form a protective film on the skin’s surface not only helps retain moisture but also enhances the skin’s elasticity and smoothness. Additionally, PGA has been shown to inhibit hyaluronidase (1), the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid, thereby extending the hydration benefits of hyaluronic acid in the skin. These properties make Sodium Polyglutamate an exceptional ingredient for boosting skin hydration, improving skin texture, and offering long-lasting moisture retention, surpassing even hyaluronic acid in some aspects.

Blocks Hyaluronidase

Hyaluronidase is an enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid (HA), a key substance in the skin responsible for maintaining moisture, elasticity, and volume. HA is a glycosaminoglycan that can attract and retain water, keeping the skin hydrated and plump. When hyaluronidase degrades these HA molecules, the skin loses moisture and elasticity.

Maintaining high levels of HA is essential for keeping the skin hydrated, smooth, and youthful-looking. Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA) inhibits hyaluronidase, preserving HA levels in the skin. By blocking this enzyme, PGA helps the skin retain moisture, enhances the effectiveness of HA-based skincare products, and promotes longer-lasting hydration and a more youthful appearance.

Humectant

The unique structure of PGA allows it to hold an extraordinary amount of water—up to 5000 times its weight—making it a highly effective humectant.

Benefits

Sodium Polyglutamate offers a range of benefits that make it an ideal addition to skincare formulations. Below are some key benefits of using Sodium Polyglutamate:

Exceptional Moisture Retention: PGA’s ability to bind large amounts of water helps maintain optimal skin hydration, keeping the skin plump, soft, and smooth.

Hyaluronidase Inhibition: By potentially inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down HA, PGA helps sustain higher levels of hyaluronic acid in the skin, enhancing long-term hydration.

Improved Skin Elasticity: Regular use of PGA can lead to increased skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Film-Forming Properties: PGA creates a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, preventing moisture loss and protecting the skin from environmental stressors.

Compatibility with Other Ingredients: PGA works well with a variety of other skincare ingredients, making it a versatile addition to different formulations.

Side Effects and Safety

While Sodium Polyglutamate is generally well-tolerated and safe for most skin types. The EWG gives it it’ safest rating of a 1.

There are a few considerations to keep in mind:

Potential Irritation for Sensitive Skin: In rare cases, particularly for those with highly sensitive skin, PGA may cause mild irritation.

Overhydration: Excessive use of humectants like PGA in environments with high humidity may lead to overhydration, where too much moisture is absorbed, potentially leading to puffiness under the eyes. This is very temporary and will only last a day.

Products Containing Sodium Polyglutamate

Several skincare products harness the hydrating power of Sodium Polyglutamate. Notably, Neocutis has incorporated this ingredient into one of it’s advanced hydrating HA serums. These are our favorite dermatologist- recommended products with PGA. This is a unique ingredient not found in many products yet.

Research

Recent research has highlighted the significant potential of Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA) as a versatile and potent ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Studies, such as those conducted by Serra et al. (2024), have underscored PGA’s remarkable moisture retention abilities, surpassing even hyaluronic acid, making it an exceptional candidate for skincare products aimed at improving hydration and skin texture. Additionally, PGA’s ability to inhibit hyaluronidase, the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid, has been substantiated through various studies, including those documented by Liu et al. (2022), who demonstrated its effectiveness in preserving HA levels in the skin, thereby enhancing hydration and promoting a more youthful appearance.

Furthermore, PGA’s applications extend beyond just hydration. Its film-forming capabilities and biocompatibility make it an ideal ingredient for a wide range of cosmetic products, from moisturizers to sunscreens. This has been supported by extensive research showing that PGA not only improves skin elasticity but also acts as a barrier against environmental stressors, thus offering comprehensive skin protection. Moreover, the potential of PGA in anti-aging formulations is backed by studies highlighting its ability to stimulate collagen production and enhance skin firmness, further validating its role as a multifunctional skincare ingredient.

To find out if this intensely hydrating ingredient is right for your skin type, take our 16 skin types quiz.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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