Sunscreen Safety: Is SPF Bad for You?

Sunscreen Safety: Examining the Concerns and Evidence

The EWG released a statement today (May 15 2024) that only 25% of sunscreens are safe and effective. Is this true? The EWG does not provide any details of the study they did on 1700 SPF products. This makes it impossible to understand what their study design was and what criteria they used for calling a sunscreen safe and adding it to their EWG safe sunscreen guide.

As a dermatologist, I often hear questions like “Does sunscreen cause cancer?” or “Is sunscreen bad for you?” These concerns are understandable, given the recent news about the FDA calling for more data on certain sunscreen ingredients. The new press release from the EWG convolutes this even more. What did they mean when they said “Most sunscreens don’t work as advertised”? All SPF must go through standard testing to show how much UVB protection they provide. They must be alluding to the lack of UVA testing of SPF – but we just don’t know what they are suggesting by this statement. So I’m here to help you take a deeper dive into non toxic sun protection and find out the truth about the safety of sunscreens.

In this blog, we’ll take a close look at sunscreen safety and the potential risks associated with some sunscreen ingredients, provide a list of bad sunscreens, and discuss the evidence behind these concerns.

If you are looking for a safe sunscreen to fit into your skin care routine you have several options:

1. Take the Baumann Skin Type Quiz to find a safe sunscreen for your skin type. On the question that asks which type of sunblock you prefer- choose mineral (Physical). If you are pregnant, say yes to the pregnancy question to find a pregnancy safe sunscreen.

2. Visit our collection of safe sunscreens

3. We also have a collection of coral reef safe sunscreens that are considered safe and are allowed in Hawaii – the state that has the strictest SPF safety regulations.

4. Ask your dermatologist. You can find a board certified dermatologist near you at AAD.org.

The FDA on Sunscreens

Sunscreens are essential for protecting our skin from harmful UV radiation, reducing the risk of skin cancer, premature aging, and sunburn. However, concerns have been raised about the safety of certain chemical sunscreen ingredients.

The FDA is currently calling for more data on 12 ingredients before determining whether they can continue to be classified as Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective (GRASE).

The ingredients commonly used in the U.S. that require further data are ensulizole, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, and avobenzone. The ingredients not frequently used in the U.S. that also require additional data are cinoxate, dioxybenzone, meradimate, padimate O, and sulisobenzone.

It is important to note that while the FDA is asking for more data, it does not say that these ingredients are unsafe or ask the public to stop using sunscreens containing them. A recent FDA study examined four sunscreen ingredients and concluded that their absorption into the body supported the need for additional research to determine if the absorption has any effects on a person’s health. However, as the researchers pointed out, just because an ingredient is absorbed into the bloodstream does not necessarily mean that it is harmful or unsafe.

Research on ingredient safety is always ongoing, so this blog might change as developments in science come to light.

Is Sunscreen Bad for You

Before I get into the issues surrounding sunscreen safety, it’s essential for you to understand that the sun itself has been proven to be harmful to our skin.

Exposure to UV radiation from the sun can lead to immunosuppression, DNA mutations, and damage to skin cells and the overall structure of the skin. These effects can result in the development of skin cancers, sun spots, and premature skin aging. The dangers of sun exposure have been well-established through numerous studies, emphasizing the importance of using sunscreen as a protective measure.

The question then becomes: Are the potential risks associated with certain sunscreen ingredients worth the benefit of protecting our skin from the known dangers of sun exposure? The answer is yes. Even the most controversial sunscreens are still better than using no sunscreen at all.

It’s important to note that sunscreen ingredients sold today have not been directly and convincingly linked to any types of cancer or serious health concerns, despite being used by millions of people over several decades. While some studies have suggested that certain sunscreen ingredients might have some adverse effects, these have not been conclusively proven. However, there have not been enough studies to ascertain if some types of chemical sunscreens are bad for you. This is why the FDA is requiring more research on some sunscreen filters.

The problem with this ongoing controversy is that in the USA, we do not have access to some of the best sunscreens used in other countries because of the lack of safety data.

In general- the answer to the question “Is SPF bad?” is that it is not as dangerous for you as the sun is. However, there are safe options- so why not choose an option we know is safe. In this article I will discuss the sunscreen ingredients that are controversial- but be assured that there are safe physical mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide that have no health concerns. I have curated a collection of them here for your convenience.

GRAS Status and FDA Initiative

The FDA has recently taken steps to ensure the safety of sunscreen ingredients by re-evaluating their Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective (GRASE) status. GRASE is a designation given to ingredients that are considered safe and effective based on available scientific data and expert consensus.

In light of new research and concerns, the FDA has requested additional safety data on 12 common sunscreen ingredients before determining whether they can maintain their GRASE status.

Ensulizole

Octisalate

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Octinoxate

Oxybenzone

Avobenzone

Cinoxate

Dioxybenzone

Meradimate

Padimate O

Sulisobenzone

The first seven ingredients on the list (ensulizole, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, and avobenzone) are commonly used in sunscreens in the United States. The last five ingredients (cinoxate, dioxybenzone, meradimate, padimate O, and sulisobenzone) are not frequently used in U.S. sunscreens.

This FDA sunscreen safety initiative aims to pinpoint which sunscreen ingredients have the best safety profile and provide consumers with the most up-to-date information.

It’s crucial to understand that the FDA’s request for more data does not mean that these ingredients have been proven unsafe. Rather, it signifies a proactive approach to ensuring the highest level of safety for consumers.

Is Sunscreen Bad for Your Skin

Sunscreen is good for your skin because it protects it from UV rays. Even the worst sunscreen with the most health concerns is still better for your skin than the sun (unless you are allergic to the sunscreen ingredient .) The concerns about sunscreens are listed below but they are not concerns about the effects of sunscreen on skin as much as they are about systemic issues which large amounts are used all over the body for long amounts of time over many years. It is the cumulative effect that really is the issue here- not one time use.

List of Bad Sunscreens

These have been called bad sunscreen ingredients because the FDA has requested more safety data, however, we do not know if these are harmful or not. My advice is to avoid these chemical sunscreens and choose other types of sunscreens:

Ensulizole

Octisalate

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Octinoxate

Oxybenzone

Avobenzone

If you find yourself stuck in the sun and the only SPF you have contains one of these, my advice is to use the sunscreen. The risk of sunburn greatly outweighs one time exposure to these. (and remember – there is not enough evidence to show these are bad or they would have already been removed from the market like the sunscreen PABA was.)

Does Sunscreen Cause Cancer?

We know the sun causes at least 3 types of skin cancer; basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma. Some have suggested that long term use of some types of SPF can cause cancer in mice, this is very controversial and there are not enough convincing studies to say that sunscreen causes cancer in humans.

Why is SPF Bad for You?

There is no proof that SPF is bad for you but this section will discuss what the fears are and why the FDA is requiring more research on the safety of the sunscreens on the bad sunscreen list.” Let’s take a closer look at some of the specific concerns raised about sunscreen ingredients and the evidence behind them.

Hormone Disruption

The chemical sunscreens oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) and octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) have been linked to potential hormone disruption. These chemicals can mimic natural hormones in the body and lead to endocrine system imbalances. Studies have shown that oxybenzone and octinoxate can bind to hormone receptors and exhibit estrogenic activity in cell and animal studies (Wang 2010, Schlumpf 2001). However, human studies have not conclusively demonstrated that typical usage of sunscreens containing these chemicals causes significant hormone disruption or negative health impacts (Janjua 2004).

Pregnancy and Breastfeeding

Certain sunscreen ingredients, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, have been detected in breast milk (Schlumpf et al., 2010). This has led to concerns about potential effects on infant development. However, the levels found in breast milk are generally low, and the benefits of protecting the mother’s skin from sun damage during pregnancy and breastfeeding are thought to outweigh the potential risks. Pregnant and breastfeeding women who want to avoid ingredients on the bad sunscreen list should opt for mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

Looking for pregnancy safe sunscreen? See our safe sunscreen collection below. These are all mineral sunscreens.

Fertility Issues

Oxybenzone and octinoxate have been associated with potential effects on reproductive health and fertility. Animal studies found exposure to oxybenzone affected reproductive hormone levels and development of reproductive organs (Schlumpf 2004). One human study linked higher oxybenzone exposure to lower testosterone levels in adolescent boys (Scinicariello 2016). However, it is unclear if fertility effects seen in animal studies are relevant to typical human exposures through sunscreen use, and more research is needed. My advice is for men and women to avoid using Oxybenzone and octinoxate if you are trying to conceive. Click here for a collection of oxybenzone free sunscreens.

Presence of Benzene

There is concern over the unintended contamination of some sunscreen products with the carcinogen benzene during manufacturing. Analysis by the lab Valisure detected benzene in multiple sunscreen products, especially aerosol sprays (Valisure Citizen Petition 2021). Benzene exposure is linked to blood disorders and cancer. However, benzene is not an intended sunscreen ingredient, and this contamination appears to be a sporadic manufacturing issue rather than an inherent issue with sunscreens. Uncontaminated products would not pose this risk.

Nanoparticles

Nanoparticles, particularly zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are used in some mineral sunscreens. Concerns have been raised about the potential for these nanoparticles to penetrate the skin and cause harm. However, current evidence suggests that nanoparticles in sunscreens do not penetrate the skin’s deeper layers and are unlikely to cause significant adverse effects (Osmond-McLeod et al., 2016). The FDA has stated that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can be GRASE depending on their particle size and other characteristics (FDA, 2019).

Allergies and Photoallergy/Phototoxic Reactions

Some sunscreen ingredients have been associated with allergic reactions, photoallergy, or phototoxic reactions in sensitive individuals. These reactions can cause redness, itching, or a rash. The most common culprits are:

Oxybenzone

Octinoxate

Octocrylene

Avobenzone

Padimate O

Neurotoxicity, Hepatotoxicity, and Nephrotoxicity

Some animal studies have suggested that certain sunscreen ingredients, particularly oxybenzone, may have potential neurotoxic, hepatotoxic, or nephrotoxic effects (Fediuk et al., 2011). However, these studies often involved high doses that do not reflect typical human exposure through sunscreen use. More research is needed to determine the relevance of these findings to human health.

My Opinion on SPF Safety

The bottom line is that you need sunscreen on your face every day and on your body when exposed to the sun. Some SPF ingredients are controversial, so play it safe and choose a mineral sunscreen. There are many cosmetically elegant ones on the market now.

However, if you find yourself in a situation where one of these “bad” sunscreens is your only choice, I recommend using it. As soon as possible, switch to a sunscreen on the safe list. In my opinion, oxybenzone is the sunscreen ingredient to avoid the most, especially when pregnant or breastfeeding.

Need help finding a sunscreen? Take our quiz and we can help you find the best one of your Baumann Skin Type.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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