The Best Vitamin C for Melasma

Melasma is a chronic skin condition that causes dark spots on the skin due to a build up and uneven distribution of the skin pigment melanin. Thankfully there are a number of dermatologist treatments and skincare options available to even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation.

Dr. Sheldon Pinnell discovered years ago that ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) helped skin make collagen. Since then we have learned so much about the many benefits of Vitamin C.

Vitamin C can be used as an antioxidant to help protect the skin from inflammation caused by sun and light exposure. It also is a tyrosinase inhibitor to help prevent the production of melanin. For this reason, Vitamin C is used in the treatment of melasma, however, it is not the best skin lightener to treat melasma because it’s tyrosinase inhibiting abilities are not as strong as other tyrosinase inhibitors like kojic acid, hexylresorcinol and arbutin. I prefer using Vitamin C in the Melasma Maintenance Routine for my patients and I choose one of these strong skin lightening products for the Melasma Treatment Routine. To learn about the two different types of melasma skin care routines- click here.

I love using Vitamin C orally to help treat melasma from the inside. I also often use it topically and orally to prevent skin aging. I just don’t think ascorbic acid is the best way to treat melasma for most skin types. With that said- it varies depending upon what your Baumann Skin Type is. Knowing your Baumann Skin Type is the only way to know if Vitamin C is the best treatment for your melasma.

What are the Benefits of Vitamin C in Skin Care for Melasma?

Vitamin C serums and vitamin C creams have become a staple of many skincare routines over the past decade, and it’s no wonder as this powerful antioxidant has many beneficial effects.

Much of the scientific research into the use and benefits of vitamin C in skincare centers on L-ascorbic acid, which is the pure form of vitamin C found in oranges. However, L-ascorbic acid quickly breaks down when exposed to air and light, so always be sure to purchase this type of vitamin C serum in an amber bottle with a small mouth or airless pump. Never buy it in a jar!

You should look formulations of L-ascorbic acid vitamin C serums in concentrations such as 10%, 15% or 20%, as these will have the greatest impact on evening out skin tone.

Don’t be cheap when it comes to Vitamin C serums. The most affordable Vitamin C serums are often ineffective. If they are in a jar- they are worthless. We recommend asking your dermatologist’s advice our follow our recommendation for the best Vitamin C serums for melasma because there are many subpar options that just don’t work.

Using a good formulation of vitamin C serum as part of your daily skincare routine can reduce the appearance of melasma and dark spots on the skin, even out skin tone, and even reduce the signs of aging on the face.

Why Are Vitamin C Serums So Expensive?

L-ascorbic acid is difficult to formulate in a way that protects the activity of Vitamin C because Vitamin C breaks down when exposed to air and light and loses its ability to protect the skin. When the Vitamin C product is formulated, this must be done in an air-free and light-free environment. Vitamin C also needs to be a low pH (acidic) to effectively penetrate the skin. This is why Vitamin C serums sting. Formulating Vitamin C properly is an expensive and patented process. The bottom line is- splurge on Vitamin C and save on cleansers, moisturizers and sunscreen. When we recommend a skincare routine for your skin type, we try to choose affordable products when possible but the Vitamin C serums will still be expensive. Click here to find out more about why these products cost so much.

What Is the Best Affordable Vitamin C Serum For Melasma?

Our favorite affordable Vitamin C serum is Skinceuticals Serum 10 AOX+. While some vitamin C serums can be slightly irritating, SkinCeuticals Serum 10 AOX+ contains L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) and ferulic acid, both of which are powerful antioxidants and inhibit tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production and dark spots on the skin), and panthenol (vitamin B5), which is an anti-inflammatory that soothes the skin and prevents worsening of melasma. This vitamin C serum will also help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

What Are the Best Vitamin C Serums For Melasma?

These are our favorites because of the concentration of Vitamin C, the pH and the way the products are packaged.

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Add to Cart

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Add to Cart

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Add to Cart

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

Can All Skin Types Use Vitamin C For Melasma?

Some sensitive skin types and hypersensitive skin types cannot tolerate the low pH (acidic) of Vitamin C. Rosacea prone, stinging skin and other sensitive skin types may get irritated by Vitamin C serums. It has not been proven but some patients report that Vitamin C causes acne breakouts- so I avoid it in my acne patients.

Wounded skin that has just had a procedure such as microneedling should not use L-ascorbic acid unless prescribed by your doctor because we have seen complications (granulomas and other side effects) from people putting Vitamin C on the skin after microneedling. It is usually Vitamin C creams that cause problems- not Vitamin C serums. But- to be safe- ask your doctor.

What is the Best Vitamin C Cream For Melasma?

We don’t recommend Vitamin C creams for melasma. The fatty acids in these creams can actually prevent skin-lightening ingredients from working properly. If you have melasma, it is best to use a Vitamin C serum or a completely different kind of skin lightening product. Never use a Vitamin C cream in a jar. Once it is open the air inactivates the ingredients and it is worthless.

How Long Until My Melasma Goes Away?

How long it will take for melasma to improve depends upon many things including:

Are you using the correct melasma skin care products for your skin type?

Do all of your skin care products work together to treat melasma instead of products inactivating each other?

Are you taking holidays from your tyrosinase inhibitors and alternating between a Melasma Treatment Regimen and a Melasma Maintenance Regimen

Are your melasma moisturizers and melasma cleansers chosen to help your Vitamin C serum work better to lighten the skin?

Are you combining the Vitamin C serum with other strong tyrosinase inhibitors?

Are you using PAR-2 blockers?

Are you avoiding the sun and blue light (from phone) by using tinted sunscreens (with iron oxide)?

Are you getting light or laser treatments that can make your melasma worse?

Are you avoiding intense heat like infrared saunas?

Are you pregnant?

Are you taking estrogen?

Are you making lifestyle changes to help your skin get rid of melasma?

It will likely take 12- 16 weeks for your melasma to clear- even if you are doing everything right. Don’t waste any time and money buying the wrong products for your skin. Vitamin C might not be the best product for your melasma!

Find out the best skin care routine for your Baumann Skin Type now!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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