The most common mistakes with vitamin A, according to skin therapists
As a skin therapist, I’ve seen many skin owners rush to use brand new vitamin A products, only to end up with dry, flaky, and irritated skin. Why? Because it’s a powerful ingredient in skincare. So, if used incorrectly, it can backfire.
Essentially, vitamin A works by improving skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. Honestly, I think, with a ton of scientific research, it’s one of the best ingredients to put on your face. I recommend it to all my clients (unless they’re pregnant of course, because that’s not recommended when a little one is growing). So, for example, if you add extra chocolate chips to your baking, it’s totally worth it.
Vitamin A can basically help with everything: aging issues, boosting collagen production, fighting acne and pigmentation, and providing an overall healthy, radiant skin. But! You need to find the right strength and use it correctly along with any other products that work for your skin.
Just because you see other people using certain vitamin A derivatives and it works for them, doesn’t mean it will work for you too.
While we’re on the subject, Retinol A is an umbrella term, and under that umbrella term are Vitamin A derivatives, often called retinol esters, retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, and more. (I explain this in more detail here.)
Okay, there you have those common mistakes I mentioned. Keep them in mind when you decide to add a retinoid to your routine.
You’re not using SPF.
Sorry to start with the most obvious thing, but I would never recommend a Retinol product to a client if they don’t pay attention to their SPF. Just do your daily SPF steps and the rest will fall into place. Sure, sun protection is a daily must, but using active ingredients can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage. So there’s no point in investing in a Retinol product if you don’t apply (and renew) your sunscreen every day.
More is not better.
Like an extra glass of champagne, more is better when it comes to Retinol A. Too much can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun. Always do a patch test first (and follow the directions for use). If you’re unsure, just introduce it slowly. Start with once-a-week applications and gradually increase the frequency. It can take up to a month for your skin to adjust to a vitamin A product. A little dryness and/or tenderness is normal during this time, but if you use too much too quickly, it can be a problem in the long run.
They often forget to use it.
Another example I see often is people forgetting to use vitamin A. You need to use skincare consistently to get the best results, and your skin needs to adjust to it, too! Missing vitamin A or forgetting to use it delays cell turnover, and often means you have to start all over again when you take your vitamin A back. It’s like going to the gym: consistency = results.
They combine it with too many other active ingredients.
Big mistake, huge. Vitamin A is an active ingredient in skincare. So when introducing it into your routine, you need to be aware of the other active ingredients you’re using. Combining vitamin A with too many other active ingredients can irritate the skin, and that’s because most active ingredients promote cell turnover.
Honestly, I see a lot of skin barriers in my clinic that are damaged from mixing too many skincare products – that’s why I keep preaching this. Dryness, redness, pain, and tenderness are all signs that you’re over-treating your skin! First, avoid using acids with retinoids until your skin has built up a tolerance. Use vitamin C products only in the morning and vitamin A only at night.
You’re not providing your skin with enough hydration.
Active ingredients are great, but when you take something away from your skin, you have to give something back. Hydrated skin is healthy skin! Moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin help replenish moisture and strengthen the barrier (allowing your skin to better tolerate the effects of vitamin A). Soothing ingredients like bisabolol can also help soothe any potential irritation.
You’re using the wrong derivative for your skin type.
Not all vitamin A is created equal. Formula matters, and so does strength. You need to find one that works for your skin type. This is where consulting a skin therapist can help (hello, call me!). Using the wrong vitamin A derivative can upset the delicate balance between promoting cell turnover and maintaining barrier integrity, leading to potential irritation or frustrating lack of results.
You use it in the morning.
Vitamin A products should only be used at night (after cleanser and before moisturizing serum) because they can cause photosensitivity. Sunlight also depletes their antioxidant properties and can increase skin sensitivity as it stimulates cell turnover.
So! I hope this information helps! In my opinion, Vitamin A is a must in any skincare routine, but you need to introduce it slowly, trust the process, and be mindful of your skin barrier when introducing it. It’s the key to healthy, radiant skin.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
