The most common mistakes with vitamin A, according to skin therapists
As a skin therapist, I’ve seen many skin owners rush to use brand new vitamin A products, only to end up with dry, flaky, and irritated skin. Why? Because it’s a powerful ingredient in skincare. So, if used incorrectly, it can backfire.
Essentially, vitamin A works by improving skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. Honestly, I think, with a ton of scientific research, it’s one of the best ingredients to put on your face. I recommend it to all my clients (unless they’re pregnant of course, because that’s not recommended when a little one is growing). So, for example, if you add extra chocolate chips to your baking, it’s totally worth it.
Vitamin A can basically help with everything: aging issues, boosting collagen production, fighting acne and pigmentation, and providing an overall healthy, radiant skin. But! You need to find the right strength and use it correctly along with any other products that work for your skin.
Just because you see other people using certain vitamin A derivatives and it works for them, doesn’t mean it will work for you too.
While we’re on the subject, Retinol A is an umbrella term, and under that umbrella term are Vitamin A derivatives, often called retinol esters, retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, and more. (I explain this in more detail here.)
Okay, there you have those common mistakes I mentioned. Keep them in mind when you decide to add a retinoid to your routine.
You’re not using SPF.
Sorry to start with the most obvious thing, but I would never recommend a Retinol product to a client if they don’t pay attention to their SPF. Just do your daily SPF steps and the rest will fall into place. Sure, sun protection is a daily must, but using active ingredients can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage. So there’s no point in investing in a Retinol product if you don’t apply (and renew) your sunscreen every day.
More is not better.
Like an extra glass of champagne, more is better when it comes to Retinol A. Too much can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun. Always do a patch test first (and follow the directions for use). If you’re unsure, just introduce it slowly. Start with once-a-week applications and gradually increase the frequency. It can take up to a month for your skin to adjust to a vitamin A product. A little dryness and/or tenderness is normal during this time, but if you use too much too quickly, it can be a problem in the long run.
They often forget to use it.
Another example I see often is people forgetting to use vitamin A. You need to use skincare consistently to get the best results, and your skin needs to adjust to it, too! Missing vitamin A or forgetting to use it delays cell turnover, and often means you have to start all over again when you take your vitamin A back. It’s like going to the gym: consistency = results.
They combine it with too many other active ingredients.
Big mistake, huge. Vitamin A is an active ingredient in skincare. So when introducing it into your routine, you need to be aware of the other active ingredients you’re using. Combining vitamin A with too many other active ingredients can irritate the skin, and that’s because most active ingredients promote cell turnover.
Honestly, I see a lot of skin barriers in my clinic that are damaged from mixing too many skincare products – that’s why I keep preaching this. Dryness, redness, pain, and tenderness are all signs that you’re over-treating your skin! First, avoid using acids with retinoids until your skin has built up a tolerance. Use vitamin C products only in the morning and vitamin A only at night.
You’re not providing your skin with enough hydration.
Active ingredients are great, but when you take something away from your skin, you have to give something back. Hydrated skin is healthy skin! Moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin help replenish moisture and strengthen the barrier (allowing your skin to better tolerate the effects of vitamin A). Soothing ingredients like bisabolol can also help soothe any potential irritation.
You’re using the wrong derivative for your skin type.
Not all vitamin A is created equal. Formula matters, and so does strength. You need to find one that works for your skin type. This is where consulting a skin therapist can help (hello, call me!). Using the wrong vitamin A derivative can upset the delicate balance between promoting cell turnover and maintaining barrier integrity, leading to potential irritation or frustrating lack of results.
You use it in the morning.
Vitamin A products should only be used at night (after cleanser and before moisturizing serum) because they can cause photosensitivity. Sunlight also depletes their antioxidant properties and can increase skin sensitivity as it stimulates cell turnover.
So! I hope this information helps! In my opinion, Vitamin A is a must in any skincare routine, but you need to introduce it slowly, trust the process, and be mindful of your skin barrier when introducing it. It’s the key to healthy, radiant skin.
