The Science of Camellia Oil in Skin Care

Camellia oil, also known as tsubaki oil or tsubaki seed oil, is derived from the seeds of Camellia japonica, a flowering tree native to East Asia. Historically a staple in Japanese beauty routines, camellia oil is known for its deeply hydrating and skin-nourishing qualities, thanks to its unique blend of fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants.

One key benefit of camellia oil is that, unlike some other types of oils, it has a very low comedogenic rating, meaning it won’t clog pores or cause breakouts. In this guide, I’ll explain more about the unique skin benefits of camellia oil and provide recommendations on how to incorporate it into your skin care regimen based on your skin type.

Camellia oil hydrates and protects the skin and improves barrier function.

It is non-comedogenic, so it can be suitable for acne-prone skin.

When used on its own, camellia oil comes with little to no notable side effects.

What Is Camellia Oil?

Camellia oil is extracted from the seeds of the Camellia japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. This oil has been a beauty staple for centuries in East Asian cultures, particularly in Japan, where it has been used for hair, skin, and nail care. The oil is lightweight, non-comedogenic, quickly absorbed, and packed with bioactive compounds that work to improve the skin’s moisture balance, reduce irritation, and promote a smooth, glowing complexion.

Active Compounds in Camellia Oil

Camellia oil, or tsubaki oil, contains a long list of bioactive compounds that make it particularly beneficial for dry or mature skin. These compounds include:

Fatty acids. Camellia oil contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and stearic acid, though oleic acid is the most abundant. Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that can deeply hydrate the skin, as it is able to reach the deeper layers beyond the skin’s surface. Oleic acid strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, reduces water loss, and helps to soften and smooth dry or rough skin.

Vitamins A, B, D, and E. Tsubaki oil contains a range of vitamins that offer antioxidant protection, support cellular repair, and enhance skin texture. Vitamin E, for example, acts as a powerful antioxidant and aids in skin hydration, while vitamins A and D promote cell turnover and support a more even skin tone.

Polyphenols. These natural antioxidants protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental pollutants. Polyphenols are known for their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging properties.

Phytosterols. Phytosterols are plant-derived compounds that can help to reinforce the skin’s barrier and improve moisture retention. Beta-sitosterol , an abundant phytosterol in camellia oil, also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects on the skin.

Squalene. Squalene is a lipid that is naturally found in the sebum in your skin and is therefore an important component of your skin’s barrier function (3). This compound is also found in many plant seed oils, including tsubaki oil, offering added hydration and promoting healthy barrier function.

Flavonoids. Flavonoids are strong antioxidant compounds found in abundance in plants like Camellia japonica. These compounds help to neutralize free radicals that would otherwise cause oxidative damage to the skin, leading to signs of premature aging.

Saponins. Saponins are natural cleansing agents with mild antimicrobial properties. Thus, they help to cleanse the skin without stripping its natural oils, making camellia oil suitable for sensitive skin types. Saponins also have anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce redness and soothe irritated skin.

benefits of camellia oil

Skin Benefits of Tsubaki Oil

Because of its broad range of active compounds, camellia oil can provide the skin with a number of key benefits:

Improves skin hydration and barrier function. The oleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene naturally found in tsubaki oil allow this ingredient to improve skin hydration and overall barrier function by supporting the skin’s natural lipid content.

Free radical protection and anti-aging. The antioxidants found in camellia oil give this ingredient its anti-aging properties. Antioxidants scavenge free radicals that could otherwise cause cellular damage and lead to lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

Supports collagen production. The vitamins A and E in tsubaki oil stimulate fibroblasts, the specialized cells that are responsible for collagen synthesis. This, in turn, helps to promote a youthful-looking complexion by increasing the amount of collagen in the skin.

Improves dark spots. Studies have found that camellia oil has the ability to inhibit melanin production by suppressing tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production (4). Because of this, camellia oil may help to brighten the skin and improve uneven skin tone and dark spots.

Reduces inflammation. Tsubaki oil contains anti-inflammatory phytosterols, saponins, and other calming compounds that can reduce redness and soothe irritated or sensitive skin.

Side Effects of Tsubaki Oil

Tsubaki oil is typically well-tolerated for most Baumann Skin Types and does not come with notable side effects. That said, if you are using products that contain tsubaki oil and other ingredients, make sure the product is a match for your skin type.

Best Skin Care Products with Camellia Oil

Due to its light texture, non-comedogenic nature, and hydrating properties, camellia oil is often included in moisturizers, anti-aging creams and serums, and face oils. When choosing a camellia oil skin care product, look for cold-pressed or pure camellia oil as a primary ingredient, as this method preserves the oil’s natural vitamins and antioxidants. A few high-quality skin care products that contain camellia oil are listed below.

How to Use Camellia Oil in Your Skin Care Routine

Camellia oil can be used on its own as a pure face oil or as a skin care formulation mixed with other synergistic ingredients to enhance its benefits. If using the oil on its own, apply a few drops to clean skin either in place of a moisturizer or along with your moisturizer.

If using a skin care product that contains camellia oil, the way that you add it to your skin care regimen will depend on the type of product that you are using. Camellia oil is often included as an ingredient in barrier repair moisturizers, for example, which can be applied to dry, damaged skin as often as needed. Anti-aging and eye serums that contain this ingredient can be applied either in the morning or at night. However, because of the powerful antioxidant qualities of camellia oil, this ingredient can work well during the day to provide added UV protection in addition to your sunscreen.

Bottom Line

Camellia oil, also known as tsubaki oil, is a lightweight, nutrient-rich oil that can be used on its own or mixed with other ingredients in skin care formulations. Its high fatty acid content and antioxidant properties make this oil an effective barrier repair ingredient for those with dry or sensitive skin.

While camellia oil on its own is generally suitable for most Baumann Skin Types, make sure that formulations that contain this ingredient and others are right for your skin type. If you don’t yet know your skin type, take a few minutes to take the quiz below to get customized skin care recommendations.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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