The Science of Cocoa Butter in Skin Care

Cocoa butter is a good ingredient for dry and resistant skin types. Cocoa butter has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antioxidant, and UV protective qualities. When not processed for cosmetic formulations, this ingredient dries into a solid resembling dairy butter.

This ingredient is super comedogenic and will cause acne on the face of sensitive skin types if not thoroughly washed off with a cleanser. Despite this drawback, there are still many interesting uses for cocoa butter in skin care.

To see if cocoa butter is right for your skin type, take our skin care quiz to get your Baumann Skin Type and a custom skin care regimen recommendation for free!

What is Cocoa Butter Made of?

Cocoa butter is a thick oil mostly composed of saturated fatty acids like palmitic and stearic acids. It also contains small concentration of linoleic, a-linolenic, and oleic fatty acids.

Palmitic acids and stearic acids are highly comedogenic saturated fats, meaning they can easily clog the pores of sensitive skin. In dry, resistant skin types, their ability to hold moisture onto the skin and repair the skin barrier might not result in acne.

Besides lipids, this ingredient is also rich in versatile polyphenolic compounds, minerals, and more. (1,6)

Some of the most notable components of cocoa butter include:

Caffeine – an antioxidant and vasorestrictor.(5)

Catechins – UV protective qualities and antioxidant activity (2)

Flavanols – a group of polyphenolic compounds found in many plants like green tea

Theobromine – a methylxanthine like caffeine (3)

Vitamin E – one of the most well studied antioxidants in skin care. (4)

Skin Benefits

If cocoa butter is right for your skin type, benefits of using it in your regimen can offer anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and sun protective qualities.

If you are not prone to acne breakouts, and know you have a dry, resistant Baumann Skin Type,this ingredient could be a good addition in your moisturizing products.

When used on the arms or legs, there is not really a concern for acne, so cocoa butter can be included in body moisturizers without risks of causing acne in most cases.

is it good to use cocoa butter in skin care?

Is Cocoa Butter Good for Skin?

Cocoa butter has a few positive attributes for skin care, but it is only suitable for dry, resistant skin. If you do have dry, resistant skin, this ingredient can great for inflammation, repairing the skin barrier, and holding moisture onto the skin with its thick, occlusive texture. It also contains antioxidants and UV protective capabilities that make it good for both preventing and treating sun damage.

If you are not using cocoa butter on parts of the body prone to acne, it can be a solid choice as well.

If your skin is oily or sensitive, cocoa butter contains a high concentration of comedogenic fatty acids that are known to clog pores in acne prone skin. (7)

While it might be great for moisturizing, and have some antioxidant benefits, it is not right for most skin types.

Is it safe?

Cocoa butter is considered safe for use in cosmetics by organizations like the Environmental Working Group (EWG), but more research on this ingredient is still required.

There is surprisingly little research onthis ingredient’s use in cosmetics, but it is known to clog pores because of its comedogenic fatty acids, so it is not good for use on sensitive, oily skin.

Additionally, over moisturizing the skin can result in a change of the face’s natural microbiome, which can result in various kinds of acne including cysts.

Cocoa butter in skin care and acne

Cocoa Butter and Acne

Cocoa butter is extremely comedogenic and will clog the pores of acne prone skin types. We do not recommend using this ingredient for any acne treatment as it and other comedogenic ingredients only make acne worse. Instead of cocoa butter for acne care, consider cleansers, peels, and other products designed specifically to treat acne.

Some common ingredients you can read about on our website that are typically great for acne care are:

Benzoyl peroxide

Glycolic acid

Retinoids

Salicylic acid

Raw Cocoa Butter

When you see cocoa butter in your skin care products, it is typically raw cocoa butter.

Cocoa butter is usually derived in the chocolate making process by treating fermented cacao beans with pressure and various other mechanical extraction methods.(6)

It is not a synthetic ingredient and is not typically heated to a temperature that denatures its beneficial enzymes when it is being used for skin care.

cocoa butter in skin care for inflammation

For Inflammation

Cocoa butter is great for inflammation control in dry, resistant skin types. Cocoa butter contains a few unsaturated fatty acids like linoleic and a-linolenic fatty acids which are good for repairing the skin barrier. (1,6,7)

The antioxidants in cocoa butter also help it alleviate inflammation from oxidative stress. Skin conditions where the skin barrier is dry and irritated like eczema can benefit from the occlusive, anti-inflammatory nature of this ingredient.

If you need an anti-inflammatory but you are prone to acne, check out this list of anti-inflammatory ingredients in skin care!

For Anti-Aging

Cocoa butter contains a decent amount of antioxidant components such as the various polyphenols, vitamin E, and caffeine. (1) Antioxidants are essential for eliminating free radicals on the skin. Free radicals can cause genetic damage within skin cells which can lead to conditions ranging from sunburns and wrinkles to skin cancer. (8)

In addition to binding free radicals, some of the components in cocoa butter are known to absorb UV radiation (2,3,6).

Cocoa butter alone is not enough to protect your skin from aging. For a full list of anti-aging ingredients, check out this library!

Best cocoa butter creams in skin care

Best Cocoa Butter Creams

The most common use of cocoa butter in skin care products is in thick, occlusive moisturizing creams for dry, resistant skin types. If you are looking for a potent moisturizer with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and are not prone to acne, here are some cocoa butter creams to consider:

More Cocoa Butter Products

Outside of face creams, there are a number of masks, sunscreens, and other interesting cocoa butter products that might be right for you if you have dry, resistant skin!

Make sure to take our skin typing quiz to avoid purchasing the wrong products for your face.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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