The Science of Emollients in Skin Care

Emollients are an important component in many skincare products, with their main purpose being to smooth and soften the skin. Understanding the role of emollients in your skin care regimen and how they are different or similar to other hydrating ingredients can be helpful when choosing the right products for your specific skin type and concerns.

Here, we discuss the basic functions of emollients in skin care, examples of emollient ingredients, and some of the best brands and products that contain them. Make sure to take the skin type quiz for free to find the best emollients for your skin type!

Emollients smooth and soften the skin.

They are important ingredients for dry skin types.

Moisturizers commonly contain emollient, occlusive, and humectant ingredients.

What Is an Emollient?

An emollient is an ingredient that softens and smooths the skin. It is a definition based on the characteristics that it imparts on the skin (smoothness) more than its chemical structure. Emollients work by filling in the tiny gaps between skin cells, which can become dehydrated and rough. They form a protective layer on the skin’s surface, preventing moisture loss and enhancing the skin’s natural barrier function. Emollients are commonly found in creams, lotions, and ointments, making them a staple in many skincare routines.

What Do Emollients Do for Your Skin?

Emollients offer several benefits to your skin, including:

Moisture retention. Emollients help to lock in moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and preventing dryness.

Skin barrier protection. By forming a protective layer on the skin, emollients enhance the skin’s barrier function, shielding it from environmental irritants and allergens.

Improving texture. Regular use of emollients can lead to smoother, softer skin, improving its overall texture and appearance.

Emollients can soothe irritated or inflamed skin by reducing friction, making them ideal for conditions like:

eczema

psoriasis

dermatitis

keratosis pilaris

xerosis

How Is an Emollient Different from a Moisturizer?

While emollients and moisturizers are often used interchangeably, they are not technically the same. Emollients are individual substances that soften and smooth the skin, whereas moisturizers are products that are formulated to hydrate the skin. Many moisturizers contain emollient ingredients, along with humectants and occlusives, to hydrate, smooth, and protect the skin.

Examples of Emollient Ingredients

There are many different emollient ingredients available in skin care. This is a list of the most common emollients used for skin:

Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil

Squalane

Cocoa Butter

Lanolin

Almond Oil

Avocado Oil

Mineral Oil

Dimethicone

Petrolatum

Beeswax

Olive Oil

Sunflower Seed Oil

Glycerin

Coconut Oil

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Isopropyl Palmitate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lanolin Alcohol

Emollient vs. Occlusive vs. Humectant

Emollients, occlusives , and humectants are all common ingredients that hydrate the skin. While there are differences between them, some occlusives and humectants can also be emollients – remember, emollients are any ingredient that smooths the skin.

That said, there are some notable differences in how each of these hydrating ingredients functions.

Emollients fill in gaps between skin cells, smoothing the skin and improving texture.

Occlusives create a barrier on the skin’s surface, preventing moisture within the skin from evaporating.

Humectants draw moisture into the skin, increasing hydration levels.

By using products that contain all three types of ingredients, you can achieve optimal skin hydration and protection. For example, a moisturizer might include hyaluronic acid (a humectant) to draw in moisture, shea butter (an emollient) to smooth the skin, and beeswax (an occlusive) to lock in the moisture.

Best Emollient Creams and Brands

When choosing an emollient cream, compare key factors like spreadability, absorption rate, and the ability to deposit fatty acids on the skin. Some of my top-recommended brands include:

Zerafite. This family of moisturizers is known for superior lipid-replenishing properties and ideal for dry and sensitive skin.

SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore. A popular option that helps to restore the skin’s external barrier and support natural self-repair.

Proteya. This brand is formulated to strengthen the skin’s barrier and provide long-lasting hydration.

If you are looking for a specific moisturizer for your skin type or a specific skin concern, read through my guide outlining moisturizer types to help you choose the best one for your skin.

Best Emollient for Eczema

For those struggling with eczema, emollients can provide much-needed relief for dry, itching skin. Look for creams that are rich, non-irritating, and free of fragrances. Products like Zerafite Barrier Repair Moisturizer , Zerafite Soothing and Calming Moisturizer , and Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Gel Cream are excellent choices, offering soothing and hydrating properties tailored to sensitive skin.

Effects on Microbiome

A healthy microbiome can help protect the skin from dangerous bacteria. A study by Capone ins 2023 showed that using emollients in babies helped increase microbiome diversity. This is an area of research that is developing. You can learn more about the microbiome here.

Emollient Side Effects

Emollients are generally safe and well-tolerated by most skin types. However, like all skin care products, the best emollients for you will depend on your skin type. Some occlusive ingredients, for example, can clog pores, so they are not suitable for oily, acne-prone skin types. Additionally, if you are allergic to certain ingredients like lanolin or specific plant oils, avoid products that contain those specific ingredients.

Bottom Line

Emollients play a key role in maintaining healthy, hydrated skin and are found in a variety of moisturizing products. To find the best emollient ingredients and products for your skin’s specific needs, first take the quiz to find out your Baumann Skin Type. You will then see personalized skin care recommendations to help keep your skin hydrated.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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