The Science of Keratosis Pilaris (Chicken Skin)

Keratosis pilaris (KP), often known colloquially as “chicken skin,” is a common source of cosmetic concern for, though it is not a dangerous condition. This blog aims to demystify KP by explaining its scientific causes, exploring effective treatments, and addressing common concerns related to this skin condition. We’ll delve into the science of keratosis pilaris, how it can be managed with skincare products and professional treatments, even though there is no permanent cure.

To make sure you only buy the right products for your skin type, be sure to take the Baumann Skin Type Quiz for free today!

What is Keratosis Pilaris

Keratosis pilaris is an extremely common genetic skin condition characterized by small, hard bumps on the skin. The bumps are often light-colored and appear on the upper arms, thighs, cheeks, or rear-end. They usually don’t hurt or itch. KP results when keratin, a protein that protects skin from harmful substances and infection, builds up and blocks the opening of hair follicles. Some studies have found that the rate of this condition can be higher than 50% in teenagers, and 80% in teenage girls specifically. (5)

The papules from this condition can sometimes lead to varying degrees of redness and itching. During adolescence, the prevalence and intensity of KP may increase due to hormonal changes, suggesting a possible hormonal influence on the condition.

How to treat keratosis pilaris

While there is no permanent cure for keratosis pilaris, several treatments can help manage its appearance. Treatment focuses on softening the keratin deposits in the skin and minimizing cosmetic discomfort. The first step in managing KP is understanding that each treatment may work differently depending on individual skin types. In general, I recommend a good exfoliant and a good moisturizer to treat KP.

For tailored recommendations, take the Baumann Skin Type through our specialized quiz.

Exfoliating ingredients for keratosis pilaris

Effective management of Keratosis Pilaris often begins with the right exfoliating regimen. Here are some options that can help smooth the skin’s surface by removing excess keratin:

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):

Glycolic Acid: One of the most effective AHAs for keratosis pilaris, it penetrates deeply to help dissolve the glue-like substance that holds dead skin cells together.

Lactic Acid: Not only exfoliates but also moisturizes, making it perfect for sensitive skin types prone to dryness.

Mandelic Acid: A gentler AHA option that exfoliates without causing significant irritation.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs):

Salicylic Acid: Known for its ability to penetrate into pores and dissolve the buildup of keratin, salicylic acid is a good choice for those with keratosis pilaris on oilier skin areas or those prone to acne.

Physical Exfoliants:

Jojoba Beads: These are smooth, biodegradable beads that provide gentle physical exfoliation without the harshness associated with rougher scrubs.

Microfiber Cloths: Using a soft microfiber cloth can help gently exfoliate the skin when used in conjunction with a cleanser.

Enzymatic Exfoliants:

Papain (Papaya Enzyme): This fruit enzyme helps break down the keratin in skin cells in a gentle manner, suitable for sensitive skin.

Bromelain (Pineapple Enzyme): Works similarly to papain, offering a mild exfoliation that’s effective at smoothing the skin’s surface.

These are some of my favorite exfoliating products, all of which can be helpful in treating keratosis pilaris:

Moisturizing ingredients for Keratosis Pilaris

Proper hydration is crucial in the treatment of keratosis pilaris to help reduce the appearance of bumps and improve overall skin texture. Here are several moisturizers and their active components that can aid in this process:

Urea: Particularly effective for severely dry skin, urea at higher concentrations can hydrate and help dissolve tough keratin plugs.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids as Moisturizers: A form of lactic acid or glycolic acid that combines exfoliation with intense hydration. AHA’s do not strip oils or other moisture from the skin, meaning they are a good exfoliant choice for dry skin types.

Ceramides: These strengthen the skin’s barrier, preventing moisture loss and maintaining hydration, essential for KP-affected skin.

Natural Oils:

Coconut oil: Known for its moisturizing properties, it also has anti-inflammatory benefits, making it a popular choice for soothing keratosis pilaris.

Shea butter: Rich in fatty acids and vitamins, shea butter is highly effective in conditioning and softening the skin.

Other Hydrating Ingredients:

Hyaluronic Acid: Draws moisture into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and plump.

Glycerin: A humectant that attracts water to the skin, helping to keep the surface hydrated and less prone to roughness.

Procedures for Keratosis Pilaris

For more stubborn cases, professional dermatologic treatments may be considered:

Microdermabrasion and Dermabrasion: These procedures deeply exfoliate the skin, removing dead cells and smoothing the surface.

Chemical Peels: Application of solutions like glycolic acid to deeply exfoliate and reduce keratin buildup.

Laser Treatments and Blue Light Therapy: These can help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with more visible cases of keratosis pilaris.

Dangers of Keratosis Pilaris

It is important to note that KP is a benign condition. It is safe and there are no dangers associated with this condition. The primary concerns are aesthetic, and for some, the texture and appearance of their skin may cause psychological distress. Addressing the appearance of skin can significantly enhance self-esteem and decrease any social concerns associated with visible skin bumps.

Is there a cure for keratosis pilaris?

Unfortunately, there is no permanent cure for KP; however, with regular treatment, the condition can be effectively managed and its appearance minimized. Many find that their symptoms improve with age, particularly as they continue consistent skincare regimens tailored to their skin type.

Keratosis pilaris, though medically harmless, can be a persistent skincare challenge. Understanding your specific Baumann Skin Type can guide you to the most effective treatments and products. Remember, a combination of regular exfoliation and intensive moisturizing is key to smoothing the skin and reducing the bumps caused by KP. Though it may require ongoing attention, with the right approach, you can achieve clearer, more comfortable skin.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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