The Science of Keratosis Pilaris (Chicken Skin)
Keratosis pilaris (KP), often known colloquially as “chicken skin,” is a common source of cosmetic concern for, though it is not a dangerous condition. This blog aims to demystify KP by explaining its scientific causes, exploring effective treatments, and addressing common concerns related to this skin condition. We’ll delve into the science of keratosis pilaris, how it can be managed with skincare products and professional treatments, even though there is no permanent cure.
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What is Keratosis Pilaris
Keratosis pilaris is an extremely common genetic skin condition characterized by small, hard bumps on the skin. The bumps are often light-colored and appear on the upper arms, thighs, cheeks, or rear-end. They usually don’t hurt or itch. KP results when keratin, a protein that protects skin from harmful substances and infection, builds up and blocks the opening of hair follicles. Some studies have found that the rate of this condition can be higher than 50% in teenagers, and 80% in teenage girls specifically. (5)
The papules from this condition can sometimes lead to varying degrees of redness and itching. During adolescence, the prevalence and intensity of KP may increase due to hormonal changes, suggesting a possible hormonal influence on the condition.
How to treat keratosis pilaris
While there is no permanent cure for keratosis pilaris, several treatments can help manage its appearance. Treatment focuses on softening the keratin deposits in the skin and minimizing cosmetic discomfort. The first step in managing KP is understanding that each treatment may work differently depending on individual skin types. In general, I recommend a good exfoliant and a good moisturizer to treat KP.
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Exfoliating ingredients for keratosis pilaris
Effective management of Keratosis Pilaris often begins with the right exfoliating regimen. Here are some options that can help smooth the skin’s surface by removing excess keratin:
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):
Glycolic Acid: One of the most effective AHAs for keratosis pilaris, it penetrates deeply to help dissolve the glue-like substance that holds dead skin cells together.
Lactic Acid: Not only exfoliates but also moisturizes, making it perfect for sensitive skin types prone to dryness.
Mandelic Acid: A gentler AHA option that exfoliates without causing significant irritation.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs):
Salicylic Acid: Known for its ability to penetrate into pores and dissolve the buildup of keratin, salicylic acid is a good choice for those with keratosis pilaris on oilier skin areas or those prone to acne.
Physical Exfoliants:
Jojoba Beads: These are smooth, biodegradable beads that provide gentle physical exfoliation without the harshness associated with rougher scrubs.
Microfiber Cloths: Using a soft microfiber cloth can help gently exfoliate the skin when used in conjunction with a cleanser.
Enzymatic Exfoliants:
Papain (Papaya Enzyme): This fruit enzyme helps break down the keratin in skin cells in a gentle manner, suitable for sensitive skin.
Bromelain (Pineapple Enzyme): Works similarly to papain, offering a mild exfoliation that’s effective at smoothing the skin’s surface.
These are some of my favorite exfoliating products, all of which can be helpful in treating keratosis pilaris:
Moisturizing ingredients for Keratosis Pilaris
Proper hydration is crucial in the treatment of keratosis pilaris to help reduce the appearance of bumps and improve overall skin texture. Here are several moisturizers and their active components that can aid in this process:
Urea: Particularly effective for severely dry skin, urea at higher concentrations can hydrate and help dissolve tough keratin plugs.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids as Moisturizers: A form of lactic acid or glycolic acid that combines exfoliation with intense hydration. AHA’s do not strip oils or other moisture from the skin, meaning they are a good exfoliant choice for dry skin types.
Ceramides: These strengthen the skin’s barrier, preventing moisture loss and maintaining hydration, essential for KP-affected skin.
Natural Oils:
Coconut oil: Known for its moisturizing properties, it also has anti-inflammatory benefits, making it a popular choice for soothing keratosis pilaris.
Shea butter: Rich in fatty acids and vitamins, shea butter is highly effective in conditioning and softening the skin.
Other Hydrating Ingredients:
Hyaluronic Acid: Draws moisture into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and plump.
Glycerin: A humectant that attracts water to the skin, helping to keep the surface hydrated and less prone to roughness.
Procedures for Keratosis Pilaris
For more stubborn cases, professional dermatologic treatments may be considered:
Microdermabrasion and Dermabrasion: These procedures deeply exfoliate the skin, removing dead cells and smoothing the surface.
Chemical Peels: Application of solutions like glycolic acid to deeply exfoliate and reduce keratin buildup.
Laser Treatments and Blue Light Therapy: These can help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with more visible cases of keratosis pilaris.
Dangers of Keratosis Pilaris
It is important to note that KP is a benign condition. It is safe and there are no dangers associated with this condition. The primary concerns are aesthetic, and for some, the texture and appearance of their skin may cause psychological distress. Addressing the appearance of skin can significantly enhance self-esteem and decrease any social concerns associated with visible skin bumps.
Is there a cure for keratosis pilaris?
Unfortunately, there is no permanent cure for KP; however, with regular treatment, the condition can be effectively managed and its appearance minimized. Many find that their symptoms improve with age, particularly as they continue consistent skincare regimens tailored to their skin type.
Keratosis pilaris, though medically harmless, can be a persistent skincare challenge. Understanding your specific Baumann Skin Type can guide you to the most effective treatments and products. Remember, a combination of regular exfoliation and intensive moisturizing is key to smoothing the skin and reducing the bumps caused by KP. Though it may require ongoing attention, with the right approach, you can achieve clearer, more comfortable skin.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.