The Science of Mulberry Extract in Skin Care

Mulberry extract is known for its ability to brighten the skin and improve dark spots and other signs of hyperpigmentation. This ingredient, derived from the mulberry tree (Morus spp.), also has strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a versatile ingredient that can help to reduce signs of skin aging and redness. To see if adding mulberry extract to your skin care regimen could be right for you, take a look at this deep dive into what this ingredient is, its benefits for the skin, and side effects to take into consideration.

Mulberry extract is known for its ability to brighten the skin and improve hyperpigmentation.

Its strong antioxidants also make it an effective anti-aging ingredient.

When taken orally, mulberry extract can have estrogenic effects.

What Is Mulberry Exract?

Mulberry extract is derived from various parts of the mulberry tree, a plant that has been used in traditional medicine for centuries. There are three main species of mulberry: red mulberry (Morus rubra), black mulberry (Morus nigra), and white mulberry (Morus alba). These species differ in their fruit color and geographical origin, but all share a common pool of active compounds that make them beneficial in skin care.

When it comes to skin care products, mulberry extract is most commonly sourced from the leaves or roots of the mulberry tree. Extracts from the root tend to be richer in skin-brightening compounds, while leaf extracts provide powerful antioxidants.

Active Compounds in Mulberry Extract

Mulberry extract contains a variety of bioactive compounds that contribute to its skin-enhancing properties. Key compounds include:

Arbutin. A glycoside with skin-brightening properties, arbutin inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme needed for the production of the pigment melanin. This makes mulberry an effective ingredient to reduce hyperpigmentation and promote a more even skin tone.

Mulberroside A. Another glucoside found in mulberry root extract, mulberroside A is known for its strong skin-lightening effects. It inhibits melanin production by targeting tyrosinase, making it highly effective in treating hyperpigmentation and reducing dark spots.

Flavonoids. These polyphenolic compounds have strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The mulberry plant is particularly high in a type of flavonoid called anthocyanins, which provide strong antioxidant benefits, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and premature aging. Additionally, mulberry contains a flavonoid called astragalin, which has been shown to increase estrogen and progesterone levels when taken orally (3).

Alkaloids. These nitrogen-containing compounds play a significant role in the inhibition of tyrosinase, further enhancing mulberry extract’s ability to reduce melanin synthesis and brighten the skin.

Phenols. Phenols like catechin, ferulic acid, quercetin, and resveratrol are found in high concentrations in mulberry extract. These compounds have strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects by scavenging free radicals, reducing inflammation, and promoting skin cell renewal.

Benefits of Mulberry Extract for the Skin

Mulberry extract comes along with a variety of benefits for the skin, including:

Skin brightening. Most notably, mulberry extract helps to brighten the skin and improve dark spots and other signs of hyperpigmentation. It does this by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

Antioxidant protection. Rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, mulberry extract provides powerful antioxidant protection, neutralizing free radicals that contribute to oxidative stress and thus preventing premature aging and skin damage.

Anti-aging. The antioxidants in mulberry extract also help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promoting a more youthful complexion by protecting skin cells from damage and supporting collagen production.

Anti-inflammatory. Mulberry extract contains anti-inflammatory compounds that can soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and help to calm conditions like acne and rosacea.

Antifungal and antibacterial. Mulberry extract has natural antifungal and antibacterial properties, helping to protect the skin from harmful microorganisms and reducing the risk of infection or irritation.

Side Effects of Mulberry Extract

Most side effects are associated with oral consumption or large topical applications of mulberry extract and are generally not a concern when used in smaller amounts in skin care products. Still, it is important to be aware of potential side effects and discuss with your doctor if you have any concerns before using mulberry extract.

The three most common potential side effects when taking oral mulberry extract or using high doses of topical extract include:

Increased estrogen levels. Mulberry extract may have mild estrogenic effects, which could be a concern for those with hormone-sensitive conditions. However, this can be beneficial if you are having menopausal skin symptoms.

Lowered blood sugar. Mulberry can reduce blood sugar levels, so individuals on diabetes medications should consult their doctor before use.

Digestive upset. Some people may experience mild digestive discomfort with oral use, though this is rare in topical applications.

Who Should Not Use Mulberry Extract

Given its potential to influence estrogen levels, people with hormone-sensitive conditions should talk to their doctors before using mulberry extract, though these effects are typically rare in small topical doses. This includes people with a history of breast, ovarian, or uterine cancer or those undergoing hormone replacement therapy. If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, it’s also best to talk to your doctor before using products containing mulberry extract.

Products That Contain Mulberry Extract

Skin care products containing mulberry extract are typically focused on brightening the skin, reducing dark spots, and improving an uneven skin tone. The Skinceuticals Phyto Corrective Serum has such a small amount of mulberry extract in it that it probably has minimal activity.

Some of my favorites include:

Research Studies

Skin Lightening Studies: Mulberry extract, particularly from species like Morus alba and Morus nigra, has been extensively studied for its skin-lightening properties. Several components, including mulberroside F and oxyresveratrol, have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Lee et al. (2002) found that mulberroside F suppressed tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in vitro, making it a viable skin-lightening agent. Moreover, a 2011 study on Filipino patients demonstrated significant improvement in melasma when treated with 75% white mulberry extract, showing reductions in melanin content and melasma severity (Alvin et al., 2011, J Drugs Dermatol).

Anti-Redness Studies: While direct studies focusing on mulberry extract’s anti-redness properties are limited, its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant actions suggest it may help reduce redness in skin conditions. For example, the presence of quercetin and other polyphenols in mulberry leaves has demonstrated antioxidant effects in various models, which can help mitigate oxidative stress and inflammation that contribute to redness (Enkhmaa et al., 2005, J Nutr).

Anti-Aging Studies: Mulberry extract has also shown promise in anti-aging research due to its antioxidant properties. Studies on mulberry leaf extracts have demonstrated their capacity to reduce oxidative stress markers, which can contribute to skin aging. For instance, mulberry extract has been shown to modulate enzymes involved in oxidative damage, suggesting its potential for anti-aging formulations (Prasad et al., 2004, J Pharm Pharmacol). Furthermore, compounds like oxyresveratrol from mulberry have shown strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, which are critical in preventing and treating signs of aging.

These studies collectively indicate that mulberry extract is a potent multi-functional ingredient in dermatological products, contributing to skin lightening, redness reduction, and anti-aging efforts.

Bottom Line

Mulberry extract is a powerful natural ingredient that offers a range of skin benefits, from brightening the skin to protecting against environmental stressors. Its ability to inhibit melanin production makes it particularly effective for those dealing with hyperpigmentation and dark spots. However, due to its potential estrogenic effects, mulberry extract may not be right for everyone. Talk to your doctor before using this ingredient if you are concerned about increased estrogen.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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