The Science of Zinc Oxide in Skin Care

Zinc Oxide in Skin Care

Zinc oxide is one of the most effective sun protection ingredients in skin care products today. This naturally-occurring mineral compound offers a range of benefits for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. In this in-depth blog post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about zinc oxide in skin care and how to incorporate it into your routine. To get the perfect custom skin care routine for you, take the Baumann Skin Type quiz for free today!

What is Zinc Oxide?

Zinc oxide is composed of zinc and oxygen atoms bonded together. It is a fine, white powder in its natural state. While zinc itself is an essential trace element for the human body, zinc oxide has unique properties when used in skin care formulations.

Most topically applied zinc oxide sits on the outermost layer of skin rather than absorbing into the deeper layers. This is the key to understanding its mechanisms and benefits.

In skin care, zinc oxide is primarily used as a broad spectrum physical sunscreen ingredient. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation by reflecting and scattering the light waves before they can cause damage to skin cells.

Before we get started, here are a few of my favorite physical sunscreens that I’d like to highlight:

The science of zinc oxide in skin care

The properties of zinc oxide are well studied, as it is an important mineral in hundreds normal bodily functions. New research on the possible benefits or shortcomings of zinc oxide in topical products is happening all the time.

We do know that zinc oxide provides additional skin benefits beyond sun protection, which we’ll explore more below.

Zinc oxide for sun protection

Zinc oxide is the single most common ingredient in mineral sunscreens. Thanks to its mineral composition and poor ability to absorb into skin, zinc oxide effectively blocks UVB rays (wavelengths 290-320 nm) and shortwave UVA rays (320-340 nm). This prevents sunburn, cell mutations, early skin aging, and skin cancer.

Zinc oxide is superior at blocking long wave UVA1 rays (340-400nm) compared to the mineral titanium dioxide. It offers very broad spectrum protection.

Studies have found that in addition to reflecting radiation, it also absorbs a large amount of it.

Zinc oxide for melasma

By providing UV protection, zinc oxide helps prevent melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in those prone to discoloration. The UV rays that trigger excess melanin production are blocked before reaching skin cells. Additionally, it is well known that zinc supplements taken orally can treat existing melasma. Good sun protection practices are key to any hyperpigmentation regimen.

Zinc oxide and blue light

Zinc Oxide and Blue Light

Emerging research shows that zinc oxide may defend skin against visible blue light from digital devices and fluorescent lighting that can contribute to premature aging over time. More studies are still needed, but the mineral shows promise for neutralizing blue light.

Antimicrobial effects of zinc oxide

While most formulations of zinc oxide do not penetrate skin but can stay on the surface to offer antimicrobial benefits as nanoparticle zinc oxide has shown antibacterial properties in studies. This means that in most cases, zinc oxide will not directly treat acne, and even when in its nano particle form it is not potent enough to prevent acne on its own.

Is zinc oxide safe?

Zinc oxide is considered safe in skin care. Organizations like the EWG rate it as a 1-3 which is safe in most formulations. The CIR has also described it as safe. (10) The reason it is not safe in all formulations is because zinc oxide formulated as nano particles can somewhat be absorbed into the skin. Zinc is unlike some chemical sunscreen filters, which can potentially cause irritation, allergies, or penetration into the bloodstream in some individuals. As a physical blocker that sits on skin’s surface, zinc oxide is less likely to cause such reactions.

Make sure to wash off any thick sunscreens at the end of the day so they don’t clog your pores. It is not the zinc oxide itself that is comedogenic, but rather some ingredients it can be sometimes used alongside.

How zinc oxide products are made

In order to provide the above benefits, zinc oxide must be properly formulated in skin care products. Factors like how the zinc oxide is shaped, coated, and what other ingredients it is mixed together with change how it works. Here’s some of the science behind that claim:

Zinc oxide particle sizes

Zinc oxide is produced in different particle sizes depending on its purpose, which affects its properties and performance:

Nanoparticle zinc oxide contains the smallest particles less than 0.2 μm in size. This allows them to appear transparent on the skin without leaving a white color behind. However, there are concerns that nanoparticles may potentially absorb into the skin.

Micronized zinc oxide particles are slightly larger between 0.2-0.3 μm. This size minimizes light scattering for transparency, while remaining too large to penetrate deeply into the skin. Micronized zinc oxide offers the best of both worlds.

Larger, non-micronized zinc oxide particles are around 0.5-1 μm in size. These tend to leave a thicker white residue on the skin, but are sometimes used in natural or mineral makeup products.

Bulk zinc oxide particles are greater than 1 μm and appear visibly white on the skin. While they provide effective UV protection, the white residue is considered cosmetically unacceptable by most consumers.

The smallest nanoparticles provide the most elegant finish, but micronized zinc oxide balances effectiveness with safety by being too large to be absorbed into the skin. The best size for you depends on your skin concerns. At the end of the day, the best sunscreen for you is one you’ll use consistently.

Zinc oxide coating

Different types of coatings are applied to zinc oxide particles to enhance certain properties:

Silicone, dimethicone, and polymer coatings help make zinc oxide smoother, more cosmetically elegant, and water resistant while boosting UV protection. They also minimize photoreactivity.

Lecithin, glycerin, and alumina provide hydration benefits while decreasing agglomeration of particles.

It is most common for larger particle sized zinc oxide to be coated than smaller particles.

Mixing zinc oxide with other ingredients

Mixing zinc oxide with other mineral sunscreen ingredients

While zinc oxide is great at absorbing and reflecting a decent range of radiation, it is most effective when mixed with other ingredients like some chemical sunscreen components or other minerals like titanium oxide or iron oxide.

To make sure all the ingredients in your sunscreen are working together to improve your skin health, take this quiz (Coming Soon!) to find the perfect sunscreen for you!

One exciting ingredient to use alongside zinc oxide is diamonds! Products like Pavise Dynamic Age Defense use the highly reflective surfaces of diamond dust to drastically increase to radiation protection of their sunscreen. I highly recommend this product. For our full collection of sunscreens and SPF products, click here!

Pavise uses diamond core technology which is zinc bound to diamonds to provide sun protection along with antioxidants in a sheer, vegan, marine safe sunscreen.

Zinc oxide vs Titanium oxide

Like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide sits atop the skin as a physical UV filter. They do, however, have some differences. Here’s how the two mineral sunscreen ingredients stack up:

Zinc oxide provides slightly better UVA protection, titanium dioxide excels at UVB defense

Titanium dioxide is more photoreactive, zinc oxide is more stable

Titanium dioxide has a higher skin penetration risk

Zinc oxide is safer and causes less irritation overall

Beyond UV rays, zinc oxide also protects against blue light and discoloration

For the most well-rounded benefits, a combination of both minerals is ideal. But zinc oxide’s versatility makes it stand out as an essential skin care ingredient.

What to know about zinc oxide

With science supporting its effectiveness and safety, zinc oxide is proving to be more than just a physical sunscreen.

Look for zinc oxide in sunscreens as well as moisturizers, serums, and masks to take advantage of its diverse benefits. Your skin will thank you!

As always, the best skin care regimen contains products aligned with your unique Baumann Skin Type. We can provide personalized recommendations with zinc oxide tailored for your needs. Take the quiz today to start the journey towards healthy skin!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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