This dermatologist-approved ingredient fights acne, oily skin, and more
28 October 2024
Whether you’re a skincare fanatic or just love drinking lots of fluids, there are a few ingredients you probably can’t live without in your morning and night routine: Vitamin C to protect against environmental aggressors (like pollution), glycolic acid to exfoliate and reduce blemishes or dark spots, and retinol to reduce fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, and a variety of other skin concerns. But there’s another ingredient that’s been praised by skin experts, and while it’s not as well-known as the essential ingredients above, it’s an impressive all-rounder. That’s where niacinamide comes into play. What is niacinamide? And what effects does it have on the skin? “Niacinamide is essentially vitamin B3,” Dr. Ewoma Ukeleghe, medical aesthetic physician and founder of SKNDOCTOR, told R29, and there are a ton of benefits to incorporating it into your daily routine. “Clinical studies have shown that niacinamide can reduce hypersebum production (excessive oiliness of the skin), refine pores and fine lines, and keep the skin barrier intact. This, in turn, prevents water loss from the skin and limits dryness and irritation, such as itching,” according to consultant dermatologist Dr. Niacinamide’s sebum-reducing properties can also indirectly help treat mild acne, says Dr Anjali Mahto. But that’s not all. “Topical niacinamide has been shown to reduce sun-induced redness and is said to have anti-inflammatory properties,” she wrote in a recent Instagram post, adding environmental protection to her long list of benefits. But niacinamide is not a replacement for sunscreen, so always wear sunscreen during the day.
How to use niacinamide?
Kate Kerr, a professional aesthetician, notes that niacinamide is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types and can be used at any time of the day, including mornings and evenings. However, it works best with formulas that are left on the skin, such as: B. Applying a serum or toner after cleansing. Kate recommends a dermatologist-favorite product: SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3, £105. If that’s out of your budget, try The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, £5. Dr. Ewoma also reviews Paula’s Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster (£40) and Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum (£24), which contains 5% niacinamide. Whether or not to add a moisturiser to your serum is up to you. If your skin is prone to acne, experts recommend using less skincare. So you might want to skip the serum and use a moisturiser instead. If you’re looking for a nighttime moisturiser, try Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Day Cream SPF 15 (£18) or Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Night Cream (£13.49), which contain niacinamide. Interestingly, Dr. Ewoma highlights that research shows that using niacinamide before using retinol (which is often associated with skin sensitivity, including peeling and redness) can improve skin tolerance. So if your skin reacts to retinol, the first thing you should ask about is niacinamide. Dr. Ewoma also points out that niacinamide is a great skincare ingredient to use before your period. “I personally like to use niacinamide one to two weeks before my period. It helps prevent breakouts and manage the increased sebum production that many women experience during this phase of their menstrual cycle.” Check the ingredient list of your chosen product. For best results, niacinamide should ideally be included as the third or fifth ingredient.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
