This dermatologist-approved ingredient fights acne, oily skin, and more
28 October 2024
Whether you’re a skincare fanatic or just love drinking lots of fluids, there are a few ingredients you probably can’t live without in your morning and night routine: Vitamin C to protect against environmental aggressors (like pollution), glycolic acid to exfoliate and reduce blemishes or dark spots, and retinol to reduce fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, and a variety of other skin concerns. But there’s another ingredient that’s been praised by skin experts, and while it’s not as well-known as the essential ingredients above, it’s an impressive all-rounder. That’s where niacinamide comes into play. What is niacinamide? And what effects does it have on the skin? “Niacinamide is essentially vitamin B3,” Dr. Ewoma Ukeleghe, medical aesthetic physician and founder of SKNDOCTOR, told R29, and there are a ton of benefits to incorporating it into your daily routine. “Clinical studies have shown that niacinamide can reduce hypersebum production (excessive oiliness of the skin), refine pores and fine lines, and keep the skin barrier intact. This, in turn, prevents water loss from the skin and limits dryness and irritation, such as itching,” according to consultant dermatologist Dr. Niacinamide’s sebum-reducing properties can also indirectly help treat mild acne, says Dr Anjali Mahto. But that’s not all. “Topical niacinamide has been shown to reduce sun-induced redness and is said to have anti-inflammatory properties,” she wrote in a recent Instagram post, adding environmental protection to her long list of benefits. But niacinamide is not a replacement for sunscreen, so always wear sunscreen during the day.
How to use niacinamide?
Kate Kerr, a professional aesthetician, notes that niacinamide is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types and can be used at any time of the day, including mornings and evenings. However, it works best with formulas that are left on the skin, such as: B. Applying a serum or toner after cleansing. Kate recommends a dermatologist-favorite product: SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3, £105. If that’s out of your budget, try The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, £5. Dr. Ewoma also reviews Paula’s Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster (£40) and Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum (£24), which contains 5% niacinamide. Whether or not to add a moisturiser to your serum is up to you. If your skin is prone to acne, experts recommend using less skincare. So you might want to skip the serum and use a moisturiser instead. If you’re looking for a nighttime moisturiser, try Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Day Cream SPF 15 (£18) or Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Night Cream (£13.49), which contain niacinamide. Interestingly, Dr. Ewoma highlights that research shows that using niacinamide before using retinol (which is often associated with skin sensitivity, including peeling and redness) can improve skin tolerance. So if your skin reacts to retinol, the first thing you should ask about is niacinamide. Dr. Ewoma also points out that niacinamide is a great skincare ingredient to use before your period. “I personally like to use niacinamide one to two weeks before my period. It helps prevent breakouts and manage the increased sebum production that many women experience during this phase of their menstrual cycle.” Check the ingredient list of your chosen product. For best results, niacinamide should ideally be included as the third or fifth ingredient.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
