Digital Clinic for Skin & Hair Care That Works!

Menu
  • Home
  • Skin Care
  • Beauty
  • Health
Home
Beauty
Understanding Retinoid Science: How Retinol Transforms Skin Health
Beauty

Understanding Retinoid Science: How Retinol Transforms Skin Health

5 May 2025


Retinoid Science in Skincare

To understand how retinol works, you must first realize that retinol is in a family of compounds called retinoids. Retinoids are a family of compounds that all bind the Retinoic Acid Receptor (RAR) and RXR receptors.1 The RAR and RXR receptors are found in the nucleus of skin cells (both keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and many other types of cells.2 The following image will help you understand the retinoid science we will discuss in this article.

For simplicity, I will discuss retinoid effects on the skin cells called fibroblasts, but retinoids work on many different cell types (including keratinocytes in the epidermis). I will only discuss the RAR receptors because RXR receptors are confusing and less important when discussing how retinoids work for wrinkles, acne and dark spots. In this article, I will use the word “retinol” but it can be exchanged with the words retinoid, tretinoin, Retin A, or other names of retinoids. In other words- all retinoids work the same way. So- lets look inside skin cells and discuss – what does retinol do?

Do All Retinoids Work The Same Way?

When retinoids get into the skin, they all turn into all trans-retinoic acid- also called ATRA. So yes- retinoids all work the same way. However, there are several things that differentiate retinoids used in skincare:

Retinoids strength varies by both the type of retinoid and the retinoid percentage strength.

The entire skincare routine will affect how well retinoids work- so make sure you are using a skin care routine personalized for your Baumann Skin Type®.

The type of retinoid affects how well the retinoid penetrates into the skin. Retinaldehyde (also called retinal) and retinoid esters like retinyl palmitate do not absorb into the skin as easily as tretinoin and retinol absorb. The diagram below shows that retinyl esters do not penetrate well into the skin, but when they do- they are converted to retinol. Retinol, tretinoin, and retinaldehyde are all converted to retinoid acid (ATRA) inside the cell cytoplasm.

How Does Retinol Work?

Retinoids pass through the protective outer layers of the skin to the dermis where they enter the cytoplasm of the fibroblast skin cell. Once inside the cytoplasm, all retinoids convert to All Trans Retinoic Acid (ATRA). ATRA then enters the cell nucleus with help from cellular retinoic acid-binding proteins (CRABP). When ATRA binds RAR receptors, they are activated to recognize “retinoic acid response elements (RARE) on the DNA. This enables them to alter gene expression.

Once the RAR receptor is bound by a retinoid, different pathways get turned on that have predictable effects. Activation of the RAR receptor by ATRA causes some genes to turn on and some genes to turn off.3 Think of the RAR receptor as a lock and the retinoid ATRA as the key. When the key fits in the lock- some genes get turned on and some get turned off.

The strength of a retinoid depends upon it ability to get to the cell nucleus and stimulate the RAR receptors. Retinoid percentages affect this ability. Stronger retinoids will work better than weaker retinoids to prevent and treat aging skin. Let’s look at how retinoids treat different skin problems.

How Does Retinol Work on Skin Problems?

When retinoids turn on and off genes, many good things happen. This discussion will be simplified and limited to retinol’s effects on the skin. We will look at how retinol (and other retinoids) work on wrinkles, acne and dark spots on the skin. It is so exciting how much is known about how retinoids work!

How Does Retinol Work On Wrinkles?

Retinoids protect skin from aging, pollution, vaping and smoking.4 Before I discuss how retinoids work on wrinkles5, you need to understand a bit about skin aging.6

Skin Aging

When ultraviolet light (sun), pollution, smoking, vaping, or free radicals touch the skin, certain genes are turned on and off. Inflammation also affects gene expression leading to an increased risk of skin aging. There are many genes that are affected by these insults, but we are going to focus on the genes that cause skin to wrinkle, thin, and age. Aged skin, also called mature skin, has less collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin than young skin.

Aging skin occurs for two reasons:

Decreased production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin

Increased breakdown of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin

The diagram below shows how sun, pollution, inflammation and free radicals turn on these genes, leading to a decrease in the number of important skin components like collagen. The green arrows mean activation, while the red arrows mean inhibition. If you want to learn more in-depth science about why skin ages- click here.

How Retinoids Prevent Skin Aging

Retinoids prevent skin aging including wrinkles, sagging, skin thinning and skin fragility7 by:

Turning on genes that produce collagen8, hyaluronic acid and elastin*.

Turning off genes that make enzymes that break down the structure components9 that make skin look young, tight, smooth, resilient, and strong.

Retinoids block enzymes such as:

Collagenase10

Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)

Elastase11

Gelatinase12

Retinoids Get Rid Of Wrinkles You Already Have

In addition to preventing wrinkles as discussed above, retinoids also improve wrinkles by increasing levels of collagen and hyaluronic acid. They do this by turning on the genes that are needed to make collagen and hyaluronic acid.

Retinoids and Collagen

Younger skin has more Type 1 and Type 3 collagen than mature skin.13 The goal of any antiaging skin care routine is to increase the amount of collagen in the skin. Retinoids have been shown in dozens of studies over the last 3 decades to increase skin collagen.14 For this reason, many dermatologists suggest beginning retinoids in your 20s to prevent skin aging.

Does Retinol Improve Sagging Skin?

Skin sags when it loses a protein called elastin.15 Retinol does not increase amounts of active elastin. Although retinoids stimulate the genes to make more elastin precursors, these immature elastin fibers do not assembly on the microfibrillar backbones needed for the elastin fibers to be functional.16 At this time- no cosmeceutical ingredients can improve sagging skin on the face or body. However, retinoids can prevent skin sagging by preserving functional elastin.

undefined

Which is better for wrinkles- tazarotene or tretinoin?

Tazarotene 0.1% is stronger so it is the best retinoid to treat wrinkles. Both tazarotene 0.1% and tretinoin 0.1% are good for wrinkles.

How Do Retinoids Work On Acne?

Retinoids were approved to treat acne before they were used to treat photoaging of the skin.

Retinoids are the core and most important skin care products used in the treatment of acne therapy today.17 They are the preferred treatment of acne by dermatologists because they treat many of the causes of acne. Retinoids treat and prevent acne by:

Blocking inflammation by affecting toll like receptors, lowering inflammatory cytokines, and inhibiting other inflammatory pathways

Toll like receptors (TLR) are turned on by a bacteria known as Cutibacterium acnes. When C. acnes stimulate the TLR, inflammation occurs by triggering cytokines such as TNF-alpha, IL-8 and others. The retinoid all trans retinoic acid (ATRA) blocks the activation of the TLR, preventing inflammation from C. acnes bacteria. (Remember that all retinoids turn into ATRA in the skin so retinol, tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene all have this effect.)

Regulating desquamation which prevents clogged pores and comedones

Desquamation is regulated by epidermal growth factors (EGF) which is increased by ATRA. EGF activates stem cells in the basal layer of the skin, prompting them to speed up their cell division to produce new skin cells and pushing old skin cells to the skin’s surface resulting in a more orderly and increased speed of desquamation. The increased desquamation helps unclog comedones (blackheads).

How Retinoids Work On Dark Spots On The Skin

Dark spots on the skin and uneven skin tone can be caused by age, sun exposure, melasma or inflammation.

Retinoids help improve dark spots and even skin tone through two main mechanisms:

Inhibition of tyrosinase

Tyrosinase is the enzyme needed to make the skin pigment melanin. Tyrosinase can be blocked to reduce skin pigment production. Retinoids have been shown to block tyrosinase in light skin types, but in black skin they are less effective.18 Treating darks spots in black skin and dark brown skin requires the addition of other tyrosinase inhibitors.

Increasing desquamation

Increasing desquamation leads to the exfoliation of pigmented skin cells. If newly produced skin cells have less, pigment, then the skin will lighten. Using exfoliation to lighten skin only works when the pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) are turned off. Retinoids will increase desquamation in all skin colors. Darker skin types must use retinoids carefully to avoid retinoid side effects that could result in inflammation and increased pigmentation.

Retinoids are often combined with tyrosinase inhibitors and mild steroids in a “Triple Combination Cream” to increase exfoliation, block tyrosinase and decrease inflammation. Tri-Luma® is a triple combination cream (TCC) that must be prescribed by a physician. Your doctor may also write a recipe for a compounding pharmacy to customize a triple combination cream for you. These TCC creams are often called “Bleach-Eze” although this is not an official brand name. They are also called “melasma creams”. Triple combination creams are the most effective way to lighten the skin and even skin tone. Combining a TCC with a tinted sunscreen and a PAR-2 blocker is the best treatment for dark spots on the skin. Ask your dermatologist about prescription TCCs to use in your skin care routine to treat hyperpigmentation.

Summary of Retinoid Science

Whether you have skin aging, acne, or dark spots on the face- retinoids can help. It is critical to use retinoids properly and in the correct step in your skincare routine to avoid side effects. Be patient because retinoids do not work immediately.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
Share
Tweet
Email
Prev Article
Next Article

Related Articles

What Causes Crepey Skin–and Can You Prevent It?

What Causes Crepey Skin–and Can You Prevent It?

A dermatologist shares his skincare resolutions for 2025

A dermatologist shares his skincare resolutions for 2025

Recent Posts

  • Retinoids in Skincare: Vitamin A’s Secret to Youthful Skin
    Retinoids in Skincare: Vitamin A’s Secret to …
    29 May 2025 0
  • Peptides: Powerful Ingredients for Youthful, Firm, Radiant Skin
    Peptides: Powerful Ingredients for Youthful, Firm, Radiant …
    29 May 2025 0
  • Natural Moisturising Factors: Key to Hydrated, Healthy Skin
    Natural Moisturising Factors: Key to Hydrated, Healthy …
    29 May 2025 0
  • Ceramides: Essential Lipids for Healthy, Hydrated, Youthful Skin
    Ceramides: Essential Lipids for Healthy, Hydrated, Youthful …
    29 May 2025 0
  • Understanding Bunny Lines: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention Tips
    Understanding Bunny Lines: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention …
    29 May 2025 0

Popular Posts

  • Retinoids in Skincare: Vitamin A’s Secret to Youthful Skin
    Retinoids in Skincare: Vitamin A’s Secret to …
    29 May 2025 0
  • Revolutionizing Skin Tightening: The Micro-Coring Facelift Alternative
    Revolutionizing Skin Tightening: The Micro-Coring Facelift Alternative
    30 April 2025 0
  • Microdermabrasion: Achieve Smooth and Radiant Skin
    Microdermabrasion: Achieve Smooth and Radiant Skin
    30 April 2025 0
  • Revitalize Your Skin: Microneedling Rollers for Acne Scars
    Revitalize Your Skin: Microneedling Rollers for Acne …
    30 April 2025 0
  • Milia and How To Remove Them ?
    Milia and How To Remove Them ?
    30 April 2025 0

Digital Clinic for Skin & Hair Care That Works!

Copyright © 2025 Digital Clinic for Skin & Hair Care That Works!
Theme by MyThemeShop.com

Ad Blocker Detected

Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.

Refresh