Understanding the Difference Between Fine Lines and Wrinkles in Skincare

Do I Have Fine Lines or Actual Wrinkles? Derms Explain the Difference

No, you’re not crazy: The fine lines on your face do differ from fully-formed wrinkles. But they can be a sign that a wrinkle is forming due to factors ranging from the preventable (exogenous), like sun damage, to the non-preventable (endogenous, like, you guessed it, aging).

To learn more about fine lines—including how they differ from wrinkles and how they can be treated and prevented–we turned to the experts: Board-certified dermatologists Tess Mauricio, MD, FAAD, Marisa Garshick, MD, and Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD. Read on for what they shared.

Fine Lines vs. Wrinkles: How They Differ

“Fine lines are shallow, faint lines usually created by certain movements [or] caused by factors like sun damage and dehydration, appearing early in aging. Fine lines can be precursors to wrinkles,” says Mauricio. “Wrinkles are deeper and more pronounced, resulting from collagen breakdown and muscle movements, [and become] more visible over time.”

Causes of Lines on Face

Many actions and lifestyle choices can lead to fine lines and, eventually, wrinkles. The good news? Most are preventable.

Repeated Facial Expressions

“When we make certain facial expressions [frequently], the repetitive movement can lead to creases,” says Garshick. “Similar to when a piece of paper is folded repeatedly and a crease forms, the same happens with specific facial expressions.”

Sun Exposure

Second to actual aging, this may be the most well-known cause of fine lines, and it’s important to take preventative steps to protect the skin from the sun. All three experts note that sun exposure causes DNA damage and increased free radical production leading to collagen breakdown.

Dehydration

As Derek Zoolander once said, “Moisture is the essence of wetness, and wetness is the essence of beauty.” So, unsurprisingly, dehydration and lack of moisture in the skin can lead to fine lines and, eventually, wrinkles. “Dehydrated skin lacks the plumping effect of hydration in skin cells and can make fine lines more noticeable,” notes Murphy-Rose.

Lack of Sleep

If you’ve ever experienced a lack of sleep, you don’t need us to tell you that it’s the worst. But, beyond the tiredness and grogginess (and perhaps crankiness), your skin is impacted, too. “Lack of sleep can contribute to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. While we sleep, our skin experiences restoration and repair to help keep it looking healthy,” says Garshick. “With less sleep, our skin may not experience as much repair, and fine lines and wrinkles may be more visible.”

Poor Nutrition

Eat good, feel good, look good. “Poor nutrition can lead to decreased production of healthy collagen and elastin as well as [the] development of poor quality collagen,” says Murphy-Rose. “A well-balanced diet including adequate protein, fats, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants,” can help keep fine lines at bay. And make sure to refill that Stanley cup: “Hydration supports healthy skin and aids in helping prevent fine lines and wrinkles over time,” she says.

Smoking

While fine lines may be the least of your worries if you are still smoking cigarettes, they are still most certainly an unwanted side effect. “Smoking increases oxidative stress and leads to DNA damage and collagen breakdown which can contribute to fine lines and wrinkles,” says Garshick. “Additionally, those who smoke are also at risk of smoker’s lines, which develop around the mouth as a result of the repeated movement needed to smoke a cigarette.”

How to Prevent and Treat Fine Lines

Along with avoiding smoking, consistently getting good sleep, and maintaining a healthy diet, there are a few more steps you can take to curb the formation of fine lines (and, eventually, wrinkles).

Skincare Ingredients

Among the countless skincare ingredients out there, a few are particularly helpful in the fight against fine lines.

Retinoids: “Vitamin A derivatives like retinol and prescription-strength retinoids increase production of collagen and elastin, preventing and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Murphy-Rose. Garshick seconds this: “A retinoid can help to address fine lines and wrinkles as it helps to boost collagen production, which not only helps to prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles but can also treat [them].”

Antioxidants: “Topical antioxidants like vitamin C, coquinone, resveratrol, green tea, and vitamin E neutralize free radicals to prevent cellular and DNA damage,” says Murphy-Rose. “This helps to protect collagen and keep skin more youthful.”

Peptides: “Peptides are small protein molecules that signal to the body to produce more collagen, which makes them helpful to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Garshick. “An example is the RescueMD DNA Repair Complex ($88), which, in addition to lapachol, moisturizing ingredients, and antioxidants, also contains Collaxyl peptides, which help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and leave the skin looking softer and smoother.”

Sun Protection

“Sun protection is crucial to keeping skin healthy and youthful,” says Murphy-Rose. “UV radiation causes DNA damage, increases free radical production, and causes many signs of skin aging including fine lines and wrinkles by triggering collagen breakdown and elastolysis.”

Sunscreen is an easy place to start when it comes to protection. “Apply sunscreen daily to prevent UV damage and collagen breakdown,” says Mauricio. “A great option is AlumierMD’s Sheer Hydration SPF 40. It is a sheer, moisturizing, 100% physical, broad-spectrum facial sunscreen.”

Hydration

I am once again deferring to Zoolander (see previous). Hydration is crucial for keeping your body happy from head to toe, including your skin. Garshick tells us humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin (found in most wrinkle creams) help draw in moisture, plumping the skin and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And don’t forget to drink water.

Non-Invasive Treatments

“A great way to treat and prevent fine lines and wrinkles is to undergo an in-office treatment that stimulates collagen and elastin production,” suggests Murphy-Rose. “My favorite of these is Sofwave, which uses high-frequency, high-intensity ultrasound technology to heat tissue just below the surface of the skin to powerfully stimulate collagen production, improve the quality of the skin, prevent fine lines and wrinkles, and help ward off signs of aging. This treatment has no downtime.”

She’s also a fan of laser treatments. “CO2 lasers significantly improve wrinkles by resurfacing skin and remodeling collagen. There is downtime of a few weeks with this procedure,” she says. “Non-ablative fractional resurfacing with Fraxel Dual is another great option, with five to seven days of downtime including redness, mild swelling, and roughness to the skin.”

Garshick’s recs include celeb-loved at-home devices. “Non-invasive treatments that can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles include therapies like red light, such as the Solawave Radiant Renewal 4-in-1 Skincare Wand or the CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Mask, which can help to boost collagen production and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

Mauricio suggests considering “microdermabrasion, chemical peels, microneedling, ultrasound and radiofrequency to stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture,” as does Garshick, who mentions Morpheus8 radiofrequency microneedling as a possible treatment option.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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