Vitamin C Ascorbic Acid in Skin Care

Vitamin C is one of the best ingredients in skin care products because it has many skin benefits. However, it can be very expensive so you need to make sure that Vitamin C is the best skin care ingredient for your skin type.

In this blog I will tell you which Vitamin C products dermatologists recommend and why. You will also learn how to know if you need Vitamin C for your skin type.

There are many Vitamin C products out there are not made properly and do not work.

When should you start using Vitamin C on your skin?

When to use Vitamin C on your skin depends upon which Baumann Skin Type you are.

Take the Quiz

Side Effects of Topical Vitamin C

The good vitamin C serums are acidic. They can cause:

stinging

skin burn

rash

acne

Vitamin C does not cause skin dryness. Some formulations such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic can make skin feel oily.

Vitamin C does not cause photosensitivity.

Skin Types and Vitamin C

Which skin type should use Vitamin C?

These skin types will benefit from vitamin C:

Aging skin

Dull skin

Mature skin

Uneven Skin tone

Which skin types should not use Vitamin C?

Rosacea types and stinging skin types should not use Vitamin C serums.

The most effective Vitamin C skin care products are a low ph.

These acidic serums:

Exfoliate

Irritate Skin

Cause facial flushing

Cause stinging

Rosacea types and people with stinging skin can use vitamin C creams instead of serums but these are not very effective.

Vitamin C creams are not as effective as serums because the pH is not as low. They do not absorb well into the skin.

There are better antiaging ingredients than ascorbic acid for people with rosacea and stinging skin.

The best way to know if you should use Vitamin C is to shop by your Baumann Skin Type.

Take the Quiz

Vitamin C and Sensitive skin

Is Vitamin C good for sensitive skin?

Vitamin C is not a good choice for sensitive skin types.

Vitamin C must be acidic to be effective so it can irritate sensitive skin types.

Although it is an antioxidant, it can cause inflammation in sensitive skin such as rosacea-prone skin types.

Never use Vitamin C on irritated skin or skin with a rash.

What does Vitamin C irritation look like?

Skin that has a rash from Vitamin C may be:

red or pink

itchy

stinging

rough to touch

tender and uncomfortable

slightly warm to touch

Is Vitamin C too harsh for sensitive skin?

Vitamin C is too harsh for sensitive skin because the good serums are a low acidic pH.

Vitamin C serums can make these types of sensitive skin worse:

acne

rosacea

stinging skin

Can Vitamin C cause an allergic reaction on the face?

It is unusual to have a true skin allergy to topical ascorbic acid.

It is more likely that your skin is irritated by the low acidic pH of the Vitamin C serum.

What to do if my skin is sensitive to Vitamin C?

Don’t use Vitamin C if it irritates your skin. Inflammation can lead to skin aging and hyperpigmentation.

You can take oral Vitamin C supplements and get skin benefits without upsetting your sensitive skin.

(Note that oral Vitamin C does not raise skin levels of Vitamin C as much as applying it topically, but it is a good option when ascorbic acid serums irritate your skin or make it break out.)

How to treat vitamin C skin irritation?

If Vitamin C burned your face, you need to take special care of your skin to prevent post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Here are steps to take if your skin is irritated from Vitamin C serum:

Cleanse with a soothing cleanser

Apply a moisturizer with soothing ingredients.

Avoid hydroxyacids (AHAs)

Avoid beta hydroxyacids (BHA)

Avoid retinoids

Stop using the Vitamin C serum

Stay out of the sun

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Vitamin C in A Skincare Routine

How to combine Vitamin C and retinol in a skin care routine?

Vitamin C goes first. It can be used in am and pm. Retinol should be applied after Vitamin C.

Whether the retinol goes before or after a moisturizer depends upon your Baumann Skin Type.

Once you take the quiz we will tell you the best product order for vitamin c and retinol for your skin type.

When should you use Vitamin C in routine?

Vitamin C always is the 3rd step in your skin care routine.

This is the order to apply Vitamin C serum in your routine:

Cleanse skin

Apply protective eye cream

Apply vitamin C serum

Moisturizer

What not to mix with Vitamin C in skincare?

Always apply Vitamin C serum alone to clean skin because it does not mix well with many other ingredients.

You can wait for the Vitamin C to absorb and then apply other serums.

Can I use Vitamin C serums with other serums?

You can use other serums after Vitamin C but do not mix them with the Vitamin C before applying.

Serums that can follow Vitamin C are:

retinol

hyaluronic acid

niacinamide

heparan sulfate

defensins

growth factors

exosomes

How to Use Vitamin C

Always apply vitamin C to clean skin preferably after cleansing with a low pH cleanser.

How much serum to apply?

Apply 1/8th of teaspoon for entire face.

Do I use Vitamin C Serum Day or Night or Both?

You can use Vitamin C serum morning and night but it really depends upon your Baumann Skin Type.

Take the Quiz

Vitamin C before or after moisturizer?

Always use Vitamin C before a moisturizer. Using it after a moisturizer is a waste of money because it will not absorb.

How often should I use Vitamin C in skin care?

Not all skin types should use Vitamin C. Some Baumann Skin Types should use it once a day and some 2 times a day.

Can I use Vitamin C serum every day?

Most skin types can use Vitamin C every day and even twice a day.

However, not all sensitive skin types can tolerate Vitamin C.

Know your Baumann Skin type before buying any Vitain C products.

Take the Quiz

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Using Vitamin C with other Cosmeceutical Ingredients

Vitamin C and Retinol Together

How to know if I need retinol or Vitamin c?

This is easy! Take the skin type quiz and we will tell you exactly which products you should use and the correct skin care routine order.

Take the Quiz

What goes first- Vitamin C or retinol?

Vitamin C always goes before retinol.

Retinol absorbs easily.

Vitamin C does not.

How to layer Vitamin C and retinol?

Cleanse skin

Apply protective eye cream

Apply vitamin C serum

Moisturizer

Retinol

However if you are used to your retinol and not having side effects, use the retinol in step 4 and moisturizer last on top of the retinol.

How long should I wait between Vitamin C and retinol

Learn more about using retinol, hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C in the same skin care routine here.

When should you not use Vitamin C on your face?

Do not use Vitamin C on your face if you have:

redness

flushing

Stinging

a rash

retinoid dermatitis

blisters

a peeling sunburn

However, you can use Vitamin C on sunburned skin if it has not blistered or peeled.

When should I use Vitamin C on my face?

The morning is the best time to use Vitamin C serum because it can protect you from sun exposure and pollution.

However, you can also use it at night so skin has the ascorbic acid it needs to generate new collagen.

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What are the best Vitamin C products?

The best Vitamin C serums are made by SkinCeuticals, La Roche Posay and Derma Made.

The best Vitamin C skin care products are:

a pH of 2-3

made from L-ascorbic acid

serums not creams

in a amber bottle or airless pump

NOT in a jar

made by reputable brands

freshly opened

You can read more here about the best ascorbic acid serums.

Find the best Vitamin C for melasma here.

These are some of our favorite Vitamin C serums:

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Out of Stock

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Out of Stock

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

$44.99

Out of Stock

Obagi-C FX System C-Clarifying Serum

$140.00

Add to Cart

Obagi Force Field Kit with Professional-C Serum 20%

$189.00

Out of Stock

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex

$125.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

$26.99

Out of Stock

ISDIN Flavo-C

$100.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampules

$46.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Booster 10 Ampoules

$46.00

Add to Cart

ISDIN Melatonik® Restorative Melatonin Night Serum

$160.00

Add to Cart

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Cream

$54.99

Add to Cart

What are the 8 different types of Vitamin C in skin care products?

aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate

ascorbyl glucoside

ascorbyl palmitate

ethyl ascorbic acid

L-ascorbic acid

magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

sodium ascorbyl phosphate

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Comparison of Vitamin C forms in skin care products:

This table compares the stability, absorption and formulations of Vitamin C.

Note which are fat soluble and which are water soluble.

Fat soluble forms protect the cell membrane while water soluble works inside the cells.

All forms of Vitamin C have some effects on blocking melanin production and increasing collagen.

However, it is the form ascorbic acid that is the most effective form. The other forms must convert into ascorbic acid to be effective.

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The most effective Vitamin C must be:

stable

absorbed

able to convert well ascorbic acid.

L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form- if it is formulated at a pH of 2-3 so it is absorbed.

Your skin care routine should be designed to increase absorption and stability of the ascorbic acid.

We will design a skin care routine for you based on your Baumann Skin Type.

If Vitamin C is right for you, the regimen will be designed to maximize absorption of Vitamin C.

Take the Quiz

How Long does it take?

How long does it take Vitamin C to absorb into the skin?

It depends upon the pH and what other ingredients are on the skin.

Learn more here.

How Long Does it take Vitamin C to work?

Vitamin C can take months to work. How long depends upon:

What you are treating

What your Baumann Skin Type is

Which Vitamin C product

How you use it

How often you use it

When you apply it i

What other products you use it with

Learn more about how long it takes to treat dark spots and wrinkles, click here.

Best Vitamin C creams to moisturize

Vitamin C creams are not very good because

To high of a pH to absorb

Not good barrier repair moisturizers

Not enough moisturizing of fatty acids

Instead, choose a moisturizer that is right for your Baumann Skin Type.

Take the Quiz

What is Vitamin C cream used for?

These are used to treat dark spots and wrinkles. However, Vitamin C serums work better than Vitamin C creams.

Best products with Vitamin C and retinol

I prefer that my patients use separate Vitamin C and retinol serums instead of using a combination product.

Vitamin C in Dermatology

Can Vitamin C help with skin issues?

Yes. These are the skin issues that Vitamin C can help:

aging skin

dark spots

melasma

stretch marks

thin skin

radiation dermatitis

wrinkles

Does Vitamin C fade dark spots?

Yes Vitamin C is a tyrosinase inhibitor. But it is not as strong as other skin lightening ingredients to lighten dark spots.

Stop wasting time and money on the wrong products, shop by your Baumann Skin Type.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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