What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
It always amazes me that so many great ingredients in skincare rarely get the recognition they deserve. Don’t get me wrong, the ingredients you often hear about, like retinol, hyaluronic acid, and glycolic acid, deserve the spotlight, but believe it or not, there are still a lot of ingredients for your skin that you’re missing out on. Azelaic acid is one of those ingredients that works hard in the background, quietly but effectively. It’s time to take a look at this (relatively) unknown skin hero and learn what exactly it does for your skin and how it can help you achieve your skin goals. So if you want to get a better understanding of this acid and find ways to incorporate it into your daily skincare routine, stay tuned.
What does azelaic acid do for your skin?
Azelaic acid occurs naturally on our skin and can be sourced from grains like barley, wheat, and rye. You’ll often find it created in labs when formulating skincare products to enhance its effectiveness to achieve the skin results it’s so popular for.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid for Skin
Prevents and reduces breakouts like spots and acne
Helps visibly reduce red spots or discoloration that occurs after a breakout
Helps skin feel smoother overall
May help even out skin tone
Suitable for daily use on all skin types
Helps calm rosacea flare-ups
May help reduce skin sensitivity over time
This acid has been extensively studied, especially when used in prescription products at concentrations up to 15% and 20%. This percentage is for medical purposes and should only be used if a doctor has prescribed it for you. You will also find that some skin care professionals incorporate it into professional treatments. Therefore, it is important not to use any of these products at home without consulting a doctor or dermatologist. This will help you avoid unnecessary severe skin irritation or allergic reactions. There are some over-the-counter products that have lower levels of azelaic acid, but many skin care brands still use it sparingly. You may find that if it is not properly incorporated into the formula, the texture can become too grainy, which can cause skin problems.
If you have concerns about using products containing azelaic acid, it is best to consult a doctor or dermatologist first. However, in general, using products with around 10% or less of azelaic acid is a good starting point to incorporate into your daily routine and build up your skin’s tolerance.
Can Azelaic Acid Be Used Every Day?
Azelaic acid has the seal of approval from many dermatologists and is generally considered safe for daily use as part of your morning and night skin care regimen. People should be aware that this acid can dry out and flake the skin. Therefore, it’s best to follow up with a serum or moisturizer that contains hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. Once you’ve completed your morning routine, don’t forget to apply an SPF of 30 or higher (the higher the better) before you apply makeup for the day. By the way, you can use azelaic acid with AHAs, but I recommend using these products beforehand because they help the azelaic acid penetrate deeper into the skin without having to fight the barrier of dead skin cells that form on the surface of the skin.
How long does it take for azelaic acid to work?
If this is your first time using azelaic acid in your daily routine, after 6-8 weeks of consistent use and application, you’ll see an overall improvement in your complexion. Here are a few things to keep in mind before you try to apply it all over your skin, and what you can do to safely introduce it into your daily routine.
Always perform a patch test
Start at night by applying azelaic acid skincare to a small area on your forearm. Leave it on for 24 hours, and if there are no signs of irritation, apply a thin layer of the product to your entire face every night for a week. After this week, you can increase the amount to use once in the morning and once at night.
There will be a slight tingling sensation
You may notice that your skin starts to sting after applying azelaic acid to your skin. This is completely normal. If it becomes too uncomfortable and painful, rinse it off your skin immediately!
Expect your skin to turn pink!
If you notice your skin turning pink or showing signs of redness, this is also completely normal. It just shows that the acid is working its magic and rejuvenating the skin.
Apply it all over your skin.
Avoid sensitive areas like the eyes, lips, and mouth, but don’t be shy and apply it all over your skin to fight bacteria, reduce active acne, and prevent future breakouts.
What shouldn’t you mix with azelaic acid?
Although azelaic acid works well with AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid, many advise against combining it with the popular BHA salicylic acid. This is mainly because the skin can become too dry and irritated as the two acids stacked on top of each other can be too much for the skin. However, if you want to use both of these powerful ingredients together, you can alternate between them in your evening routine throughout the week.
Should I Stop Using Azelaic Acid?
If you experience any of the following side effects, stop using azelaic acid:
Severe burning
Stinging or warm sensations
Severe itching
Severe redness in the form of bumps or hives
Peeling skin
Severe irritation
If you are extremely concerned and experience any of these side effects, call your doctor as soon as possible.
Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of the benefits of azelaic acid and how to incorporate it into your daily routine. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram if you have any questions or want to join in the skin chat.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.