What are the benefits of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) for skin?

If you’re into skincare, your routine probably includes a range of active ingredients, starting with AHAs like glycolic acid, BHAs, retinol, and hyaluronic acid. Sure, it can be a little confusing at times, but once you take the time to find a routine that works for you and your skin, there’s no going back.

This brings me to one of the latest beauty buzzwords that has been popular over the last year: PHAs, short for polyhydroxy acids. Yes, there’s a new group of acids! But how exactly are these acids different from all the other acids we’ve used before? And what are their benefits for the skin? Today we know a little more about them. Who knows, maybe they’re what you’ve been missing from your routine!

What are polyhydroxy acids?

Polyhydroxy acids are chemical peels that have similar properties to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), but are considered second-generation facial acids. The most common are galactosyl, lactobionic, and gluconolactone acids. PHAs work on the outer layer of the skin, removing dead skin cells that build up on the surface, helping to restore the skin’s overall tone, texture, and radiance. By removing dead skin cells, you’ll find that other skincare products, such as serums, work better and more quickly when applied to your skin. PHAs are rich in antioxidants that can support the production of elastin and collagen in your skin. They also fight free radical damage and premature skin aging.

What do PHAs do for your skin?

If you find that your skin is too sensitive to incorporate other chemical peels into your routine, PHAs may be the puzzle piece you’re missing! Known for their gentle approach to skin exfoliation, many people with sensitive or very dry skin benefit from skincare products containing PHAs. The main benefits of polyhydroxy acids are:

Gentle enough for sensitive and very dry skin types

Can remove dead skin cells from the face that can make the complexion appear dull, gray, and accompanied by flaky skin patches

Break down the skin cell barrier, allowing other products like serums and essential oils to penetrate the skin faster and more effectively

May help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can have anti-aging benefits

Rich in antioxidants, which can help fight free radical damage like sun exposure, pollution, and other environmental aggressors

Gentle enough not to cause photosensitivity, which can make the skin susceptible to UV damage

Contains humectants that help lock in moisture in the skin.

These are just some of the main skin benefits you’ll notice when using PHAs. AHAs and BHAs have many similarities, but there are some important and powerful differences between these skin ingredients, which I’ll explain now.

How do PHAs differ from AHAs and BHAs?

The main difference between PHAs, compared to AHAs and BHAs, is their molecular size. Unlike some popular acids such as salicylic and glycolic acids, PHAs have a very large molecular size, which means they are unable to penetrate deeply into the skin. As PHAs act on the outer layers of the skin, they do not cause irritation or reactions, which are often side effects of AHAs and BHAs, especially when used on overly sensitive skin types. As PHAs work without damaging the deeper layers, you will also find that sun exposure does not cause the same degree of skin damage that often occurs when using AHAs and BHAs. However, we recommend applying SPF 30 daily to ensure the skin is fully protected from UV damage and signs of premature ageing.

If you want to learn more about how other chemical peels work on the skin, you can read our guide to the benefits of AHAs and BHAs in skincare.

How often should you use PHAs?

Although PHAs are considered gentle giants, they are still chemical exfoliating acids and should be incorporated into your daily routine in the right way. If your skin type is particularly sensitive, it is recommended to perform a patch test 24 hours after consulting your GP or dermatologist. First, try using the PHA formula that works best for your daily routine 3 times a week, such as: B. face wash, toner, serum, etc. Once your skin has developed tolerance, you can use it daily, if there are no signs of irritation. Of course, remember not to use exfoliants too often, as this can strip your skin of important oils.

Oily and acne-prone skin types may benefit from switching out chemical exfoliating toners for toners containing PHAs, as it is gentle and has healing properties that can maintain the clarity of your complexion without being too harsh on the skin. You should also be careful when mixing PHAs with other more potent ingredients, such as retinol, AHAs, and BHAs, to avoid over-irritating the skin and causing excess sebum production, which can cause an imbalance in the skin barrier. This imbalance can lead to spots, signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and other common skin issues. Once you have the best blend of ingredients, you’ll find that your skin really does look its best.

Is PHA right for my skin?

As mentioned before, sensitive skin types really benefit from PHAs because the larger molecule size allows for gentle exfoliation and you’ll find them to be a great alternative to the more potent AHAs and BHAs. Very dry, flaky and dehydrated skin types will also find that the hydrating properties of PHAs help draw moisture from the environment and lock it into the skin, keeping it balanced and calm. Issues with eczema and rosacea flare-ups are also known to be treated with the help of polyhydroxy acids. If you’re unsure of your exact skin type, check out our guide to the 4 most common skin types on our blog.

It’s pretty remarkable how many benefits PHAs offer and how they help all skin types. This is a very rare find for an ingredient in skincare, especially chemical peels. One wonders how anyone could live their daily lives without them.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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