What are the benefits of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) for skin?
If you’re into skincare, your routine probably includes a range of active ingredients, starting with AHAs like glycolic acid, BHAs, retinol, and hyaluronic acid. Sure, it can be a little confusing at times, but once you take the time to find a routine that works for you and your skin, there’s no going back.
This brings me to one of the latest beauty buzzwords that has been popular over the last year: PHAs, short for polyhydroxy acids. Yes, there’s a new group of acids! But how exactly are these acids different from all the other acids we’ve used before? And what are their benefits for the skin? Today we know a little more about them. Who knows, maybe they’re what you’ve been missing from your routine!
What are polyhydroxy acids?
Polyhydroxy acids are chemical peels that have similar properties to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), but are considered second-generation facial acids. The most common are galactosyl, lactobionic, and gluconolactone acids. PHAs work on the outer layer of the skin, removing dead skin cells that build up on the surface, helping to restore the skin’s overall tone, texture, and radiance. By removing dead skin cells, you’ll find that other skincare products, such as serums, work better and more quickly when applied to your skin. PHAs are rich in antioxidants that can support the production of elastin and collagen in your skin. They also fight free radical damage and premature skin aging.
What do PHAs do for your skin?
If you find that your skin is too sensitive to incorporate other chemical peels into your routine, PHAs may be the puzzle piece you’re missing! Known for their gentle approach to skin exfoliation, many people with sensitive or very dry skin benefit from skincare products containing PHAs. The main benefits of polyhydroxy acids are:
Gentle enough for sensitive and very dry skin types
Can remove dead skin cells from the face that can make the complexion appear dull, gray, and accompanied by flaky skin patches
Break down the skin cell barrier, allowing other products like serums and essential oils to penetrate the skin faster and more effectively
May help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can have anti-aging benefits
Rich in antioxidants, which can help fight free radical damage like sun exposure, pollution, and other environmental aggressors
Gentle enough not to cause photosensitivity, which can make the skin susceptible to UV damage
Contains humectants that help lock in moisture in the skin.
These are just some of the main skin benefits you’ll notice when using PHAs. AHAs and BHAs have many similarities, but there are some important and powerful differences between these skin ingredients, which I’ll explain now.
How do PHAs differ from AHAs and BHAs?
The main difference between PHAs, compared to AHAs and BHAs, is their molecular size. Unlike some popular acids such as salicylic and glycolic acids, PHAs have a very large molecular size, which means they are unable to penetrate deeply into the skin. As PHAs act on the outer layers of the skin, they do not cause irritation or reactions, which are often side effects of AHAs and BHAs, especially when used on overly sensitive skin types. As PHAs work without damaging the deeper layers, you will also find that sun exposure does not cause the same degree of skin damage that often occurs when using AHAs and BHAs. However, we recommend applying SPF 30 daily to ensure the skin is fully protected from UV damage and signs of premature ageing.
If you want to learn more about how other chemical peels work on the skin, you can read our guide to the benefits of AHAs and BHAs in skincare.
How often should you use PHAs?
Although PHAs are considered gentle giants, they are still chemical exfoliating acids and should be incorporated into your daily routine in the right way. If your skin type is particularly sensitive, it is recommended to perform a patch test 24 hours after consulting your GP or dermatologist. First, try using the PHA formula that works best for your daily routine 3 times a week, such as: B. face wash, toner, serum, etc. Once your skin has developed tolerance, you can use it daily, if there are no signs of irritation. Of course, remember not to use exfoliants too often, as this can strip your skin of important oils.
Oily and acne-prone skin types may benefit from switching out chemical exfoliating toners for toners containing PHAs, as it is gentle and has healing properties that can maintain the clarity of your complexion without being too harsh on the skin. You should also be careful when mixing PHAs with other more potent ingredients, such as retinol, AHAs, and BHAs, to avoid over-irritating the skin and causing excess sebum production, which can cause an imbalance in the skin barrier. This imbalance can lead to spots, signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and other common skin issues. Once you have the best blend of ingredients, you’ll find that your skin really does look its best.
Is PHA right for my skin?
As mentioned before, sensitive skin types really benefit from PHAs because the larger molecule size allows for gentle exfoliation and you’ll find them to be a great alternative to the more potent AHAs and BHAs. Very dry, flaky and dehydrated skin types will also find that the hydrating properties of PHAs help draw moisture from the environment and lock it into the skin, keeping it balanced and calm. Issues with eczema and rosacea flare-ups are also known to be treated with the help of polyhydroxy acids. If you’re unsure of your exact skin type, check out our guide to the 4 most common skin types on our blog.
It’s pretty remarkable how many benefits PHAs offer and how they help all skin types. This is a very rare find for an ingredient in skincare, especially chemical peels. One wonders how anyone could live their daily lives without them.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.