What Are The Causes of Aging Skin?

What is the cause of aging skin? Skin aging, characterized by wrinkles, sagging, and thin skin has many causes. The causes of skin aging are often divided into intrinsic and extrinsic causes. This guide to the major causes of skin aging will discuss the science of what makes skin look old.

This guide to the aging process will continuously be updated as new discoveries about skin aging are made. For more detailed explanation about skin aging see Chapters 5 and 6 of the latest edition of my textbook Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology (McGraw Hill 2022).

Antiaging skin care ingredients target these specific processes that make skin old. There are many different types of antiaging ingredients and you should choose the ones that work best for your Baumann Skin Type.

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16 Bauman Skin Types

Biologic Causes of Skin Aging

There are numerous cell processes that cause aging, that’s why treating aging can be difficult. There are so many metabolic pathways to target such as:

Cellular senescence

Autophagy

Free radicals (reactive oxygen species)

Inflammation

Short Telomers

Slowing of stem cell production of new cells

Decreased growth factors

Loss of ability for cells to “hear” growth factors

Changes in gene expression

Increases in destructive enzymes like matrix metalloproteinases such as collagenase

Sirtuin Expression

Mitochondrial function

To protect your skin from the causes of skin aging, you have many skin care product options. You should choose antiaging skin care based on your Baumann Skin Type.

Skin Aging Science

Senescent cells cause skin aging. Skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) go through five different cell phases:

Stem cells

Proliferating cells

Differentiated cells

Senescent cells

Apoptotic cells

Cellular Senescence and Autophagy

Apoptotic cells are “dead skin cells” and are not viable. They are are eliminated by autophagy and other processes that recycle cellular components. That is why apoptotic cells are not believed to be harmful to the skin.

However, the more senescent cells you have, the more likely your skin is to wrinkle and age.

Senescent cells have lost the ability to proliferate and lysosomes and mitochondria lose functionality and lose the ability for autophagy.(5) Senescent cells are not eliminated from the skin, and they stay and causes skin aging.

The presence of senescence cells is associated with an increased rate of aging . The goal of rejuvenating skin is to reduce the number of senescence cells by increasing autophagy.

Senescent cells develop into the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) which is believed to be one of the major causes of skin aging.

SASP cells cause damage and aging by releasing:

proinflammatory cytokines

matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)

growth factors

chemokines

matrix-modeling enzymes

lipids

free radicals

extracellular vesicles (EVs)

Release of these substances by senescent cells causes inflammation, known as “inflammaging (9)”. This inflammation causes many problems such as loss of collagen, elastin and extracellular matrix (ECM) which leads to fibroblast compaction, reduced DNA synthesis, and eventually wrinkles, fragile skin and thin skin.

Autophagy is the important process in which organelles such as lysosomes and mitochondria(6) self-digest or “eat themselves”. Autophagy eliminates problem causing organelles and cells like damaged mitochondria, damaged lysosomes and senescent cells.

Sirtuins and Skin Aging

Activation of sirtuin (SIRT-1) has been shown to extend the lifespan in mammals. Caloric restriction (10) also activates sirtuin which is why intermittent fasting has become an antiaging strategy. SIRT-1 decreases senescence and activates autophagy.

How sirtuins affect skin aging

how free radicals age skin

How Do Free Radicals Cause Skin Aging?

Free radicals (1), also known as reactive oxygen species (ROS), are formed when oxygen molecules lose an electron and are left with an odd number of electrons. An oxygen molecule with paired electrons is stable; however, oxygen with an unpaired electron is “reactive” because it seeks and seizes electrons from vital components leaving them damaged.(2)

What causes free radicals to occur?

Free radicals are formed by:

damaged mitochondria

inflammation

normal cell metabolism

pollution

smoking

ultraviolet light

Normal cellular metabolism can result in free radical formation. Damaged mitochondria generate free radicals which is one reason why it is so important to protect your mitochondria with antioxidants.

Free radicals attack DNA, cellular proteins, and cellular membranes and steal electrons leaving these cellular components damaged. This can cause inflammation.

Free radicals increase amounts of:

inflammatory factors

transcription factors, such as activator protein (AP)-1

nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB)

matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) such as collagenase, which degrades skin collagen

Destructive Enzymes and Skin Aging

Groups of destructive enzymes that cause aging are called matrix metalloproteinases or MMPs. MMPs are turned on by genes, inflammation and exposure to ultraviolet light and pollution.

Examples of destructive enzymes that cause skin aging are:

Collagenase breaks down collagen

Elastase breaks down elastin

Hyaluronidase breaks down hyaluronic acid.

enzymes that age skin

Short Telomeres and Skin Aging

Telomeres are composed of small pieces of repetitive DNA sequences at the ends of chromosomes. These control the cell cycle. Each cell division shortens the telomere.

Telomere shortening may cause aging by triggering cellular senescence,(13) however, the role of telomere shortening in senescence is unclear.

Why are telomeres short? These are believed to play a role in telomere shortening:

free radicals

physiologic stress

inflammation

Genes That Cause Skin Aging and Wrinkles

Research is shedding light on which genes are important in skin appearance and function, but it is still many years too early to develop skin care products targeted to “genetic deficiencies”. Glass et al (20) showed that gene studies on aging must be done in human skin to be relevant. Genetic studies on animals and cell cultures do not tell us what we need to know about human genes that cause aging.

Aged skin has increased expression of inflammation-related genes, cytokines and proteases.

Genes that cause skin aging (21) are involved in:

cellular metabolism

DNA transcription

signal transduction

cell cycle regulation

epidermal differentiation,

keratin filaments

cornified envelope proteins

lipid biosynthesis

skin barrier integrity

mitochondrial function

cytokine production

immune response

Aging research is still in the early stages, but the pace of discovery has quickened. I will update this guide to the science of skin aging as new discoveries are found. But at this time, don’t waste money on skin care that claim to target the genes that cause skin aging. It is too early for us to completely understand what genes to target with antiaging skin care.

How Inflammation Causes Skin Aging

When skin gets inflamed, many destructive pathways get turns on known as inflammaging. Free radicals, destructive enzymes like matrix metalloproteinases, and immune cells all cause skin damage in inflamed skin that leads to aging. Build up of senescent cells also occurs. To prevent skin aging it is important to identify and remove the causes of skin inflammation and to turn off inflammation with anti-inflammatory skincare ingredients.

Using the wrong skin care products can cause skin inflammation.

Cosmeceutical Antiaging Skincare Ingredients Should Target the Causes of Skin Aging

Retinoids, growth factors, exosomes, defensins, antioxidants, heparan sulfate and ascorbic acid are all antiaging ingredients used to target the causes of aging skin.

The causes of skin aging are complicated. The best way for you to choose antiaging skincare that is right for you is to shop using your Baumann Skin Type.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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