What can you mix azelaic acid with?
If you’ve been around for a while, you know that we’ve been focusing a lot on azelaic acid lately and its effects on the skin. This powerful ingredient contains antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a highly effective ingredient for a variety of skin types, from acne-prone skin to skin with rosacea. When applied to the skin, this acid can address issues and improve the overall look and feel of your complexion.
Azelaic acid is commonly found in a variety of formulas, both over-the-counter and doctor-prescribed. The latter usually contain higher concentrations of the acid in their formulas.
The main benefit you’ll find from using azelaic acid is that it can significantly improve signs of hyperpigmentation and discoloration caused by melanin. You’ll also find that it can clear up acne breakouts or signs of redness and rosacea on your skin. If you’d like to learn more about azelaic acid and the benefits you can expect from using it, check out our dedicated blog post on Beauty Insiders.
Can Azelaic Acid be used with other acids?
You certainly can. In fact, you’ll find that many experts recommend that you use azelaic acid in combination with acids, even acids that are as effective as salicylic and glycolic acid. However, it’s important to use these acids every other day. It’s the easiest way to benefit from the exfoliating and rejuvenating properties of these powerful ingredients without having to worry about it being too much for the skin and causing too much irritation.
As for other acids like hyaluronic acid, there’s no qualms about layering azelaic acid with this clever moisturizer.
Don’t let its name fool you, hyaluronic acid works differently than other exfoliating acids. Instead, it draws water from the surrounding area of the skin and locks it in place. Not only does this counteract any potential drying effects of azelaic acid, it also ensures that the lipid barrier on the surface of the skin is strengthened and moisturized.
What Not to Mix with Azelaic Acid?
As I mentioned before, you can use other acids with azelaic acid, but it’s best not to layer these ingredients together.
This can cause the skin to over-exfoliate and strip it of important oils and moisture. This can lead to overproduction of sebum (the natural oil in the skin) and excess sebum production. This can have a snowball effect that can lead to acne, breakouts, and oily skin.
There’s more to know about what not to mix with azelaic acid, so check out our blog post.
What to Apply Before and After Azelaic Acid?
A lot depends on the formula containing azelaic acid, as this will determine at which stage you apply it. I talked about the general rule of applying skincare products from thinnest to thickest in a previous blog post. If you choose a cleanser or toner with azelaic acid, you will need to follow up with a serum and moisturizer.
For convenience, you should always cleanse your skin thoroughly with a cleanser or face wash before applying azelaic acid. This will loosen the dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin. You can then apply an azelaic acid product, which will slough off these dead skin cells and make way for other active ingredients to penetrate into the lower layers of the epidermis.
As I mentioned, azelaic acid can be drying for some skin types, so after using it, you will want to apply a serum with moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. This helps maintain the skin barrier function, leaving the skin healthy, hydrated, and radiant.
Can I use niacinamide with azelaic acid?
Yes, you can certainly use niacinamide and azelaic acid together. Often thought of as acting similarly to hyaluronic acid, niacinamide is considered a very useful ingredient, especially for those who are prone to acne. This is because this hydrating powerhouse reduces inflammation, retains moisture in the skin, and works with the skin barrier to ensure it remains healthy.
While both niacinamide and azelaic acid work for the skin, everyone’s skin is different. Therefore, it is important to consult with a doctor, dermatologist, or trained professional to determine which active ingredients and percentages will work for your skin and produce the desired skin effects.
Is Azelaic Acid an AHA or BHA?
Azelaic acid is not an alpha hydroxy acid like glycolic or lactic acid, nor is it a beta hydroxy acid like the popular salicylic acid. Although it works in a similar way to these popular acids, azelaic acid is actually a dicarboxylic acid that is produced naturally in the body using yeast found in the skin. To formulate skin care products, it is extracted from yeast found in barley, wheat, cereals, and rye, and then made in a lab into a clever ingredient in many skin care formulas.
How often should you use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is generally considered one of the gentler acids. How often you use it depends on you and your skin type. If this is your first time using this acid, I recommend that you slowly introduce azelaic acid into your daily skincare routine to avoid unwanted side effects. Start using it in the evening to allow your skin to build up tolerance. As an extra precaution, I would also like to remind you to apply an SPF 30 or higher sunscreen in the morning.
That’s it, I hope I answered your questions about azelaic acid and what you can mix it with. If you have any other questions, don’t forget to find me on Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
