What Not to Mix with AHAs and BHAs?
If you don’t use AHAs or BHAs in your daily skincare routine, you’ve probably at least heard of this family of chemical peels. Both groups of acids offer impressive and desirable benefits for the skin.
What are AHAs?
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of chemical exfoliants that work on the upper surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, dirt, debris, bacteria, and other impurities that, when left on the skin, can lead to problems like spots, acne, blemishes, and sagging, dull skin. The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids, which are found in many popular skincare products, such as toners and serums. They are also effective at combating signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles, as well as areas of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage.
The molecular size of AHAs is typically large, which means they can’t penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, thus avoiding over-irritation.
What are BHAs?
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are close cousins of AHAs and generally have similar exfoliating properties. The main difference is that BHAs are not as readily available in over-the-counter products as AHAs, but are used in professional treatments such as chemical peels. The most common form of salicylic acid is salicylic acid, which, like the other acids mentioned, dissolves dead skin cells and other impurities on the skin. However, compared to AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble and has a smaller molecule size, which means it can penetrate deep into the pores to remove excess sebum, dirt, and bacteria.
Now that you know what these clever acids do for the skin, let’s dig a little deeper and find out what not to mix with AHAs and BHAs.
What Should You Not Do After BHAs?
Here are some of the key skincare ingredients you should avoid applying to your skin after using AHAs and BHAs.
Vitamin C
Retinol
Benzoyl Peroxide
Body Scrub
This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use these active ingredients at the same time, just that you need to alternate the times you use them. Ideally, you should wait around 40 minutes between applications, as this ensures your skin’s pH levels are rebalanced and ready for the products that follow. Remember not to rush into introducing new ingredients or products into your routine, especially if it works for you. Make sure the skincare products you choose complement each other and help you benefit from an effective routine.
What can I layer with AHAs and BHAs?
As both BHAs and AHAs exfoliate the skin, it’s best to combine them with moisturizing, nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalene or glycerin. All of these substances moisturize the skin and help to soothe and comfort the skin after it’s peeled. This reveals that fresh skin cells often need help to stay healthy and protected from free radicals such as UV rays, pollution and other environmental influences.
If you’re concerned about layering active skin ingredients, it’s best to do a 24-hour patch test. To do this, apply a 10p-sized amount of the product to your forearm. Once the 24 hours have passed, if there are no signs of irritation, you can apply the product to your face.
Can I use niacinamide after an AHA BHA?
Yes, you can, but always make sure you apply it at the best time of day to avoid any unwanted irritation or reaction. What I mean by this is that you can determine when to use Niacinamide in your daily routine based on the type of product that contains AHAs or BHAs. The general skincare rule is to apply products in order from thinnest to thickest to avoid forming a physical barrier on the surface of the skin that prevents the product from penetrating the skin. You will often find Niacinamide in a serum or moisturizer that is applied to the skin later in your daily care routine. This gives you plenty of time to use an AHA-rich toner, such as glycolic acid, which can remove dead skin cells, and then Niacinamide helps the skin regulate sebum production and lock moisture into the protective barrier.
The Beauty Insiders has a dedicated blog post on mixing AHAs and BHAs with Niacinamide. If you want to learn more, check this out.
Can AHAs and BHAs be mixed with Hyaluronic Acid?
It’s no surprise that Hyaluronic Acid is one of the very few skin ingredients that can be combined with almost any other active ingredient (even BHAs, salicylic acid) to be effective. For the best results, and without the signs of dryness caused by AHAs or BHAs, you can usually find serum formulas that contain both exfoliants and hyaluronic acid. This is ideal for the best of both worlds, but you can also use separate products to achieve the same hydrating and skin rejuvenating effects.
If you want to learn more about the best ways to apply hyaluronic acid with BHA, check out our dedicated blog post which has more details.
You can learn more about what not to mix AHAs and BHAs with here. Although it may feel complicated at first, you’ll find that once you have a better understanding, you’ll be able to really see improvements in your complexion. With an established skincare routine, you’ll be wary of introducing new products as this may cause skin irritation. However, stick with it and introduce new ingredients slowly. You should also always check with your doctor or dermatologist so that you and your skin love the products you use.
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DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
