
What Can You Not Mix with AHA and BHA?
If you don’t use an AHA or BHA in your daily skincare routine, chances are you have at least heard of this collection of chemical exfoliants before. Both groups of acids each deliver impressive and desirable benefits on the skin.
What are AHAs?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are a group of chemical exfoliants that work on the upper surface if the skin by ridding it of the build-up of dead skin cells, dirt, debris, bacteria, and other impurities which if left to sit on the skin will develop into such concerns as spots, acne, blemishes, and a flaky lack lustre complexion. The most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid which are formulated into many popular skincare products, like toners and serums. These are effective at also combating signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles ad well as areas of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage.
AHAs molecular size is usually quite large meaning they are unable to penetrate the lower layers of the skin and ensure you avoid too much irritation.
What are BHAs?
Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are the cousins of AHAs and generally perform similar exfoliating properties. The main difference is you’ll find BHAs are not as readily available in over-the-counter products such as AHAs, instead you’ll find they are used in professional treatments such as chemical peels. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which like the other acids mentioned works at sloughing the skin of dead skin cell build-up and other impurities. Compared to AHAs however you’ll find that salicylic acid is oil-soluble with a small molecular size meaning it can reach deep into the pores and help unclog them of excess sebum, dirt, and bacteria.
Now that you’ve had a recap of what these clever acids do for the skin, let’s explore more and find out what can you not mix with AHAs and BHAs.
What should you not do after AHA BHA?
Some of the main skincare ingredients you should not apply to the skin after using AHA and BHA are the following.
Vitamin C
Retinol
Benzoyl peroxide
Physical exfoliating scrubs
This doesn’t mean you should not use these actives all together, but it just requires you to alternate the time of day you apply them. Ideally you would need to leave about 40 minutes in between applications as this will ensure the pH levels of the skin are rebalanced ready for any following products. Remember not to rush any introduction of new ingredients or products into your routine, especially if it is one that is working effectively for you. Ensure you opt for skincare products that complement each other and will help you reap the rewards of an effective routine.
What can I layer with AHA and BHA?
With both BHA and AHA performing exfoliation on the skin it is considered best to team them with hydrating and nourishing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalene, or glycerin. All of which aid moisture to the skin and help to calm and soothe after the exfoliating of the acids revealing fresh skin cells that often require a helping hand in keeping healthy and protected from exposure to free radicals, such as UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors.
If you find yourself with any worries about layering active skin ingredients together, it’s best to perform a patch test for 24 hours. You can do this by applying a 10 pence size amount of product on the forearm, once the 24 hours have passed and there are no signs of irritation, you are able to apply the product to your face.
Can you use niacinamide after AHA BHA?
Yes, you can, but always ensure you apply it during the optimal time of day to avoid any unwanted irritation or reactions. By this I mean depending on the type of products that contain AHAs or BHAs will help you establish when in your routine you should apply niacinamide. The general skincare rule is to apply products from thinnest to thickest to avoid any physical barriers forming on the skin surface and preventing products to penetrate the skin. You’ll often find that niacinamide is formulated into serums or moisturisers which are applied to the skin during the later stages of your routine. This leaves enough time for you to use a toner enriched in an AHA, such as glycolic acid which will slough away dead skin cells before niacinamide helps the skin to regulate its sebum production and locks moisture into the protective barrier.
There is a completely dedicated blog post about mixing AHA and BHA with niacinamide over on The Beauty Insiders, so do check that out if you wanted to find out more.
Can you mix AHA and BHA with hyaluronic acid?
Absolutely, hyaluronic acid is one of the very few skin ingredients that can be teamed with almost every other active ingredient, even ones as potent as the BHA, salicylic acid. For optimal results and no signs of potential dryness caused by the AHA or BHA you’ll often find serum formulations contain both exfoliant and hyaluronic acid, this is ideal for getting the best of both worlds, but you are also able to use separate products to layer to achieve the same hydrating and skin reviving results.
If you wanted to find out more about the best way of layering hyaluronic acid with BHA, check out our dedicated blog post which goes into more detail.
There you have a little more information about what can you not mix with AHA and BHA, as complicated as it may feel at first, you’ll find that once you have a better understanding you are able to really notice an improvement in your complexion. With an established skincare routine, you’ll feel apprehensive about introducing any new products at the risk of causing the skin to flare-up, stick at it though and work slowly at introducing any new skin ingredients. You should also always consult with a doctor or dermatologist for the peace of mind you and your skin will love what you use. Don’t forget to come and find us over on Instagram for daily skin expert tips, new products, and discounts.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.