What do comedogenic and non-comedogenic mean? We asked a dermatologist to explain
Mastering the terminology surrounding skin care can be difficult, and “comedogenic” and “non-comedogenic” are probably two of the most popular yet confusing words. You’ve probably seen these terms on the packaging of many skin care products, but what do they mean?
We’re here to bring you information from a leading board-certified dermatologist. Read on for her helpful insights on comedogenic and non-comedogenic ingredients, including what they are, how they affect your skin, and who should use them.
Meet the Expert
Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics.
Melanie Palm, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and plastic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California.
What does comedogenic mean?
If you see the word “comedogenic” on a product label, it means the product may cause breakouts. “Comedogenics are areas in the pores or hair follicles where bacteria, oil, and dead skin cells typically accumulate, which can lead to acne,” says Dr. chin.
Blackheads and whiteheads aren’t the only potential downsides to comedogenic products. “These substances can also weaken the skin barrier in certain skin types, leading to inflammation and worsening of existing skin conditions,” Dr. Palmer adds.
It’s important to note that many comedogenic skin care products don’t have the word “comedogenic” on their labels, as this suggests to people that certain ingredients may clog pores and cause acne, something most brands don’t want to advertise.
According to Dr. Palmer, some of the comedogenic ingredients in Palmer may benefit people with dehydrated skin by providing higher levels of moisture. However, comedogenic products aren’t the best choice for people with acne-prone skin.
What does non-comedogenic mean?
Many products are labeled “non-comedogenic,” according to Dr. Palmer. Palm “tells consumers that every ingredient in skin care products is non-comedogenic, meaning they are less likely to clog pores. Non-comedogenic ingredients in skin care products are designed to prevent pore clogging and include most soaps or cleansers, hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidants, and other water-based ingredients.”
She explains that while non-comedogenic products are generally better, you should still be careful when introducing new products into your routine. “It’s important to note that even if a product contains a non-comedogenic ingredient, it may still cause acne or inflammation, depending on your skin type or existing skin condition,” Palm adds.
What are comedogenic ingredients?
A number of different ingredients in skin care products can contribute to clogged pores. Chin tells us that comedogenic ingredients in skin care products tend to have more oil-based chemicals or ingredients. Palm says some of the most common comedogenic ingredients include beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, petroleum, seaweed extracts, polysaccharide acids from seaweed, and dimethicone (a silicone-based polymer often used in sunscreen).
When shopping for skin care products, keep in mind that not all comedogenic ingredients are created equal, and some are more likely to cause pore clogging than others. “The comedogenicity of these ingredients can vary greatly depending on the formulation and how refined they are,” Palm says. “Talk to your dermatologist about the best regimen for your skin care needs.”
Who Should Avoid Comedogenic Ingredients?
“People who have acne or easily clogged pores should avoid comedogenic skin care ingredients,” Chin says, adding that they may not be a good choice for people with sensitive or oily skin.
“People with combination skin should also be careful with comedogenic ingredients because the pores in oily and dry areas are different sizes,” Palm says. “Oily areas have larger pores that clog more easily, making comedogenic ingredients more likely to cause breakouts in those areas.”
What Are Non-Comedogenic Ingredients?
If your skin is prone to acne, Palm recommends looking for products with non-comedogenic ingredients, such as beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bakuchiol, and adapalene. If you have dry skin, Chin recommends looking for a moisturizer or serum with a higher oil-to-water ratio.
“People with oily skin and acne should generally choose products with beta hydroxy acids, which reduce excess oil, or ingredients like benzoyl peroxide,” adds Chin. “Benzoyl peroxide can be a bit drying, so if your skin is only moderately oily, you may want to start with a gentler formula.”
Final Verdict
Comedogenic ingredients in skincare products can cause breakouts, clogged pores, or hair follicles, which can lead to acne. Non-comedogenic ingredients, on the other hand, are less likely to cause clogged pores, although they can still be a possibility in some cases. “By avoiding comedogenic products, people with acne can help reduce the likelihood of acne breakouts,” says Chin.
If you have questions or concerns about whether an ingredient you use in your skincare routine is comedogenic or non-comedogenic, you should consult a board-certified dermatologist.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
