What do comedogenic and non-comedogenic mean? We asked a dermatologist to explain
Mastering the terminology surrounding skin care can be difficult, and “comedogenic” and “non-comedogenic” are probably two of the most popular yet confusing words. You’ve probably seen these terms on the packaging of many skin care products, but what do they mean?
We’re here to bring you information from a leading board-certified dermatologist. Read on for her helpful insights on comedogenic and non-comedogenic ingredients, including what they are, how they affect your skin, and who should use them.
Meet the Expert
Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics.
Melanie Palm, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and plastic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California.
What does comedogenic mean?
If you see the word “comedogenic” on a product label, it means the product may cause breakouts. “Comedogenics are areas in the pores or hair follicles where bacteria, oil, and dead skin cells typically accumulate, which can lead to acne,” says Dr. chin.
Blackheads and whiteheads aren’t the only potential downsides to comedogenic products. “These substances can also weaken the skin barrier in certain skin types, leading to inflammation and worsening of existing skin conditions,” Dr. Palmer adds.
It’s important to note that many comedogenic skin care products don’t have the word “comedogenic” on their labels, as this suggests to people that certain ingredients may clog pores and cause acne, something most brands don’t want to advertise.
According to Dr. Palmer, some of the comedogenic ingredients in Palmer may benefit people with dehydrated skin by providing higher levels of moisture. However, comedogenic products aren’t the best choice for people with acne-prone skin.
What does non-comedogenic mean?
Many products are labeled “non-comedogenic,” according to Dr. Palmer. Palm “tells consumers that every ingredient in skin care products is non-comedogenic, meaning they are less likely to clog pores. Non-comedogenic ingredients in skin care products are designed to prevent pore clogging and include most soaps or cleansers, hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidants, and other water-based ingredients.”
She explains that while non-comedogenic products are generally better, you should still be careful when introducing new products into your routine. “It’s important to note that even if a product contains a non-comedogenic ingredient, it may still cause acne or inflammation, depending on your skin type or existing skin condition,” Palm adds.
What are comedogenic ingredients?
A number of different ingredients in skin care products can contribute to clogged pores. Chin tells us that comedogenic ingredients in skin care products tend to have more oil-based chemicals or ingredients. Palm says some of the most common comedogenic ingredients include beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, petroleum, seaweed extracts, polysaccharide acids from seaweed, and dimethicone (a silicone-based polymer often used in sunscreen).
When shopping for skin care products, keep in mind that not all comedogenic ingredients are created equal, and some are more likely to cause pore clogging than others. “The comedogenicity of these ingredients can vary greatly depending on the formulation and how refined they are,” Palm says. “Talk to your dermatologist about the best regimen for your skin care needs.”
Who Should Avoid Comedogenic Ingredients?
“People who have acne or easily clogged pores should avoid comedogenic skin care ingredients,” Chin says, adding that they may not be a good choice for people with sensitive or oily skin.
“People with combination skin should also be careful with comedogenic ingredients because the pores in oily and dry areas are different sizes,” Palm says. “Oily areas have larger pores that clog more easily, making comedogenic ingredients more likely to cause breakouts in those areas.”
What Are Non-Comedogenic Ingredients?
If your skin is prone to acne, Palm recommends looking for products with non-comedogenic ingredients, such as beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bakuchiol, and adapalene. If you have dry skin, Chin recommends looking for a moisturizer or serum with a higher oil-to-water ratio.
“People with oily skin and acne should generally choose products with beta hydroxy acids, which reduce excess oil, or ingredients like benzoyl peroxide,” adds Chin. “Benzoyl peroxide can be a bit drying, so if your skin is only moderately oily, you may want to start with a gentler formula.”
Final Verdict
Comedogenic ingredients in skincare products can cause breakouts, clogged pores, or hair follicles, which can lead to acne. Non-comedogenic ingredients, on the other hand, are less likely to cause clogged pores, although they can still be a possibility in some cases. “By avoiding comedogenic products, people with acne can help reduce the likelihood of acne breakouts,” says Chin.
If you have questions or concerns about whether an ingredient you use in your skincare routine is comedogenic or non-comedogenic, you should consult a board-certified dermatologist.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
