What does salicylic acid do for your skin?
I’ll be the first to admit that the sheer variety of skincare ingredients can often be dizzying and confusing. When it comes to finding the best ingredients to combat skin issues, especially if your main concern is acne, pimples, and breakouts, you’ve undoubtedly heard of salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is an effective heavyweight in the skincare world, whether it’s an over-the-counter product or a professional peel. It’s derived from willow bark and is classified as a salicylate ingredient. Known for its complex structure, figuring out how it works on the skin can be daunting. It’ll give you a better idea of what it does to your skin overall. It’s a member of the BHA family, also known as beta hydroxy acid, and is the most common, found in nearly every skincare product designed to combat acne and breakouts.
There are two classes of acids used in skincare formulas: AHAs and BHAs. The two groups of acids are slightly different because of the way the molecule is separated from the acid. Alpha hydroxy acids separate the acid from one carbon atom, while beta hydroxy acids use two carbon atoms. This means that BHAs essentially have more impact and penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. For example, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can slough off layers of dead skin cells while penetrating deep into the pores to remove dirt, bacteria, and excess sebum. Salicylic acid is very effective at helping improve skin clarity, but it can also tend to cause some dryness, especially if you have a skin type that’s prone to sensitivity and redness. Performing a 24-hour patch test before applying a new product to your face will help prevent unwanted skin reactions.
If you want to learn more about salicylic acid and its benefits, you can read our dedicated blog post.
Is it OK to use salicylic acid every day?
In short: yes, but always listen to your skin. If you find that your skin feels comfortable and looks clear, you can use salicylic acid every day. Some people can even use it twice a day once their skin can tolerate it.
The percentage of this BHA in individual products varies greatly from brand to brand. This can sometimes affect how sensitive your skin will be to using different products. That’s why we think it’s so important to perform a patch test on your skin first. If you still experience signs of irritation, it’s best to stop using salicylic acid products for a day or two and use a serum rich in hyaluronic acid instead. Once your skin has improved and there are no more signs of irritation, you can try to slowly reintroduce the product.
Is salicylic acid harmful to the skin?
No, not really, but it can irritate the skin if not used correctly. Salicylic acid is great for oily skin that is prone to rashes. If you have a drier skin type that is more susceptible to sensitivity, BHAs may be too harsh on the skin. Since salicylic acid works deep within the pores to remove excess sebum, it can be very drying to the skin, which can cause excess sebum production if you find that your face is over-oiled, leading to more irritation and rashes.
The best way to reap the benefits is to slowly introduce salicylic acid into your daily routine, once a week, preferably in the evening. This helps build tolerance and avoid unwanted reactions.
Can salicylic acid remove dark spots?
Yes, it will! Salicylic acid can remove dark spots due to the exfoliating properties of BHAs. When dead skin cells build up on the surface of the skin, the complexion begins to look dull and lackluster. You will also notice that more breakouts and flaky patches appear on the skin, and dark spots appear more pigmented. Salicylic acid can remove dark spots by removing layers of dead skin. The more it removes, the lighter the dark spots will become.
Salicylic acid can’t completely remove dark spots, but if you combine a powerful BHA with vitamin C, retinol, and hyaluronic acid into your daily routine, and wear sunscreen every day, you’ll find that your complexion looks brighter, more hydrated, and your skin tone is more even. Of course, keep in mind that these recommended skin ingredients should only be used in your daily routine after consulting a doctor or dermatologist.
Can I use a moisturizer after using salicylic acid?
Absolutely. Using a moisturizer after using salicylic acid is a great way to restore the skin barrier while creating a physical barrier on the surface of the skin. If you choose a moisturizer with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, make sure the water and oil content of the skin’s protective barrier is sufficient and it scavenges free radicals, such as pollution, UV rays, and bad weather.
Should salicylic acid be used in the morning or at night?
It depends on you and your skin type, as some people find that using BHA too frequently can cause irritation and dryness. However, if your skin has developed a tolerance, you can use salicylic acid morning and night. Skin experts recommend switching up the formulation of products containing acids to thoroughly cleanse your skin while avoiding unwanted reactions. Try using a salicylic acid-rich toner in the morning, and opt for a serum with active acids in the evening. It is thought to be best to use a serum at night, as the higher concentration of acids can work undisturbed without exposure to free radicals.
So, you can learn more about the effects of salicylic acid on your skin here. If you have any other skin care questions, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram. We look forward to seeing you there!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
