What is Azelaic Acid? And what are its benefits for skin care?
I know some of you may grumble at the thought of having to learn about yet another facial acid. But this particular acid is truly special. If your skin is prone to rashes or other issues like rosacea, then azelaic acid is the acid for you.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Extracted from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, azelaic acid is used in skin care as an effective chemical peel with antioxidant properties that can soothe the skin and reduce any factors that cause inflammation, rashes, irritation, or redness.
It is a lesser-known acid that is currently undergoing medical research into its effects on the skin, which also means you’ll be hard-pressed to find it in many skin care products, but in some ways, that makes it more interesting and some a holy grail.
Prescription products contain high levels of Azelaic Acid, where you can find up to 20% concentrate in these formulas, while over-the-counter products have significantly lower levels but are still considered very effective and are a great starting point for anyone looking to add AHAs into their daily skin care routine. As always, we recommend that you consult a dermatologist before using Azelaic Acid.
What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Skin?
As mentioned earlier, azelaic acid is less well known and can be difficult to find in over-the-counter products. It’s also notoriously difficult to incorporate into skincare serums and moisturizers. For brands that have found a winning blend, you’ll find that after using azelaic acid-rich products, you’ll experience a range of effects and reduced signs of common skin concerns, such as:
Frequent appearance of blemishes and imperfections
Pigmentation spots and uneven skin tone
Scarring and uneven skin texture
Dull and lackluster complexion
Increased sensitivity and redness
Azelaic acid can benefit the skin by maintaining the function of skin cells and keeping the top layer of the skin at its healthiest and smoothest appearance. Although azelaic acid is sometimes mistakenly considered a member of the broader AHA and BHA family, it’s actually a standalone skincare ingredient that isn’t as effective as other well-known acids like salicylic or lactic acid. That doesn’t mean it’s not as effective, and can easily be incorporated into a routine that already has AHAs and BHAs to bring an extra layer of skin-healing benefits to your routine. By using a blend of these skincare ingredients, you can combat blemishes and uneven skin tone and minimize signs of aging.
For more information on alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, check out our comprehensive guide to AHAs and BHAs to better understand which acid is best for your skin type and concerns.
Can Azelaic Acid be Used Daily?
Yes, you can! Azelaic acid has been studied in most medical studies for prescription products. The ingredient has proven to be stable enough to be used every day, morning and night. Keep in mind that azelaic acid can be very drying to the skin and, in some cases, can cause it to peel. To prevent this from happening, slowly introduce the acid into your routine at first, using it only at night and following with a hydrating and nourishing oil or moisturizer. Once your skin has developed the necessary tolerance, you can use it daily. However, always make sure to use an SPF of 30 or higher every day to protect your skin from harmful UV rays and sun damage.
When Should You Use Azelaic Acid in Your Routine?
For active ingredients like azelaic acid, it is most beneficial to use products that stay on the skin longer. Face washes and cleansers are a very important part of any skin care routine, but they work less on the skin because they are rinsed off the skin. If you opt for a serum and moisturizer, the acid can remove dead skin cells and fade dark spots and signs of aging. After using a serum or moisturizer rich in azelaic acid, I recommend using a hydrating gel-like formula with a high concentration of hyaluronic acid to prevent dryness and restore skin balance.
What are the side effects of using azelaic acid?
The most common side effects when using azelaic acid are:
Burns
Stinging of the skin
Peeling of the skin in certain areas after use
Dryness
Redness
To combat these issues, you can follow some simple steps such as: For example, apply moisturizer and make sure to always use sunscreen during the day, even on cloudy days. Less common side effects may also occur if you find yourself suffering from any of the following: Stop using azelaic acid and consult your doctor for further advice.
Less Common Reactions
Blistering of the Skin
Irritation
Swelling
Hives and Itching
Difficulty Breathing
Tense and Joint Pain
Fever
When you first introduce azelaic acid into your routine, it is highly recommended that you perform a 24-hour patch test. If signs of a skin reaction occur, do not use the product on your skin and seek help from your doctor.
Well, at least now you can cross azelaic acid off your list of “effective skin ingredients I need to know about.” While it’s still shrouded in some mystery as it’s not as well-researched as other facial acids, it’s gaining popularity among skincare gurus and other experts. With her ability to treat stubborn skin issues like blemishes and rosacea, who knows how many skin-rejuvenating secrets she has!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.