What Is Dermaplaning and How Can It Benefit Your Skin

Dermaplaning is a minimally invasive exfoliating treatment that uses a small blade to gently scrape dead skin cells off the surface of your skin. People often seek dermaplaning to help brighten or smooth textured skin, reduce fine lines, fade acne scars, or remove peach fuzz facial hair.1

Dermaplaning is different than shaving your face because it is more effective at exfoliating the top layer of skin. The treatment removes hair, dead skin cells, oils, and dirt from the skin’s surface.2 It is similar to microdermabrasion—another minimally invasive treatment that uses a device to sand away dead skin cells on the top of the skin.2

A dermatologist (a medical doctor specializing in skin conditions) or an aesthetician (a skincare specialist) typically performs dermaplaning. Med spas and dermatology offices offer this service as a stand-alone or add-on treatment to different facials. As a cosmetic treatment, dermaplaning uses physical exfoliation to improve skin texture and tone.1

Benefits of Dermaplaning

Dermaplanning can benefit your skin as it offers hair removal and exfoliation. As a minimally invasive treatment, it also requires less recovery and causes less irritation than treatments like chemical peels. Dermaplaning offers only short-term skin benefits unless done regularly.3

Smooth and Brighten Skin

Dead skin cells can make your skin appear dry, uneven in texture, and dull. Dermaplaning uses physical exfoliation to remove these dead skin cells, revealing fresh skin and a brighter complexion.4

Exfoliating away dead skin cells also makes the skin feel soft and smooth since rough, damaged skin cells are no longer lingering on the surface.4

Fade Dark Spots

Dermaplaning can help with evening out discolored skin by fading dark spots (hyperpigmentation) caused by age, acne, or melasma. This benefit is largely due to dermaplaning’s exfoliating effect.4

Exfoliating the skin can decrease melanin (skin pigment) production, which causes concentrated dark spots. Exfoliating can also cause melanin-containing parts of cells to spread more evenly throughout the top layer of skin. As a result, dermaplaning may lead to a more even complexion and less visible dark spots.2

Remove Peach Fuzz

In addition to removing dead skin cells, dermaplaning removes fine hairs on your face called vellus hair, also known as peach fuzz.1

Some people want to remove peach fuzz for aesthetic reasons. Removing peach fuzz further smooths the appearance of your facial skin and can help makeup apply more easily and evenly without caking to hair.1

Smooth Fine Lines and Acne Scars

Dermaplanning regularly can help increase cell turnover by removing dead skin cells faster and helping new skin cells reach the skin’s surface.2

This exfoliation process helps make the skin appear smoother and brighter. It also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the production of collagen, which helps plump the skin and fill in lines. This same effect can help reduce the look of acne scars.2

May Improve Skincare Absorption

Dermaplaning regularly may help anti-aging and other skincare products reach their full potential.4

Dead skin cells on top of your skin can prevent the active ingredients in serums and creams from going deeper into your skin. Since dermaplanning removes dead skin cells, it may allow a more direct route for your skincare to absorb into your skin.2

In a lab study where researchers dermaplaned skin samples, the treatment increased the skin penetration of topical medications.5

Who Can Benefit?

Dermaplaning is a good treatment option for people who want to improve skin texture with minimal irritation. Unlike more intense exfoliation treatments like chemical peels, dermaplaning does not entirely remove the top layer of skin.2

Dermaplaning can be gentler on dry, sensitive, textured, or acne-scarred skin, reducing the chance of irritation. It can also help remove dead skin cells that contribute to acne and reduce the appearance of melasma (dark spots caused by excess skin pigment).2

Dermaplanning is not for everyone. Dermaplaning broken and inflamed skin can increase your infection risk and worsen inflammation. People with open skin lesions, inflamed acne or skin, raised scars, skin cancer, and rosacea should avoid dermaplanning.2

The treatment can also spread the herpes simplex virus (HSV-1) to other parts of the face, so you should avoid dermaplanning if you have an active herpes outbreak on your face or cold sores.2

If you have taken acne medications like isotretinoin (brand names include Zenatane, Absorica, and Myorisan) in the last six months, you should also avoid dermaplaning since it can increase your risk of scarring.3

What To Expect

Before professional treatments, always talk with your provider about your skin type and medical history. They must know if you’ve had a cold sore, acne flare-up, hyperpigmentation (dark spots), or other skin conditions to ensure they can perform dermaplaning safely.6

During a dermaplaning treatment, a dermatologist or aesthetician uses a scalpel to scrape away dead skin cells and hair on your face. The scraping sensations shouldn’t be painful but may feel slightly uncomfortable. Depending on your treatment, dermaplaning can take 10-60 minutes.13

After the treatment, they will apply a moisturizer to your skin. Your skin may look red, pink, or slightly swollen (like a sunburn). This will resolve in a few days and shouldn’t require you to avoid activities or stay home from work. Your skin will be extra sensitive to the sun for about a week.31

A new layer of dead skin cells takes about a month to accumulate, so you can typically enjoy benefits like smoother and more even skin for a few weeks.31 Hair will start to grow back, too, but dermaplaning does not make it darker or thicker.

Dermaplaning is a temporary treatment; recurring treatments are necessary to maintain your results. Some people choose to get it weekly, biweekly, or monthly, depending on skin goals and budget.3

What About At-Home Dermaplaning?

At-home dermaplanning kits are different than professional treatments. At-home kits do not use a flat-edged single blade; instead, they use serrated blades. Unlike professional dermaplaning, at-home kits can only mildly exfoliate away dead skin and remove hair. This method is closer to shaving your face than actually dermaplaning.

The shape of at-home dermaplanning blades also puts you at risk of tearing, cutting, or irritating the skin. For best results, always use a clean, sterile blade.

Potential Risks and Side Effects

Dermaplaning often causes minor side effects like redness, skin tingling, and slight swelling. These side effects are common and usually go away within a day. More intense side effects can include bruising, burning, and sun sensitivity. These also typically resolve within a few days.2

Because dermaplanning makes the skin sensitive to sunlight, protecting your skin from the sun after the treatment is essential to avoid developing sun damage and dark patches.21

Dermaplaning is usually safe when performed by an experienced and licensed dermatologist or aesthetician. However, the treatment has risks, especially if you don’t see a professional.

While dermaplaning can help reduce the appearance of dark spots, it can also lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that can worsen melasma. If done incorrectly, dermaplaning can also lead to scarring or infections.3

Post-Procedure Care

Dermaplanning post-care includes avoiding direct sun exposure, gently cleansing the skin, and keeping your skin hydrated. You’ll want to use a gentle cleanser to wash your face and avoid harsh skincare treatments like retinol for a few days.

Always apply a moisturizer after cleansing to seal in moisture and reduce irritation. Protect your skin with shade, clothing, and sunscreen as part of your aftercare routine to prevent sun damage and dark spots. Wear sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more for the most protection.3

A Quick Review

Dermaplaning can benefit people with textured skin, fine lines, or acne scars. While results like smooth, bright skin are temporary, consistent dermaplaning can help increase cell turnover and collagen to smooth fine lines and acne scars.

Dermaplaning is a more gentle exfoliating treatment than chemical peels, laser skin resurfacing, or dermabrasion. You will likely notice some redness and swelling after the treatment.

It’s important to see a licensed dermatologist or aesthetician for dermaplaning to avoid risks like scarring, infection, and hyperpigmentation.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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