What is Salicylic Acid?
If you find yourself searching for a blemish battling formula, chances are, it will include salicylic acid. The clever BHA, also known as beta hydroxy acid, is one of the most used and effective anti-blemish ingredients. Whether it’s an over-the-counter product, or of a professional grade concentrate, the potent powerhouse will make light work of any spots, pimples, or zits that have well and truly outstayed their welcome.
If you are wanting to know more about the skincare benefits, we have a dedicated blog post about the full benefits you can expect to see when introducing the powerful acid to your routine.
What is salicylic acid?
Understanding what salicylic acid actually is can feel a little overwhelming but understanding how it works on the skin is important to help establish how to introduce it into your daily routine. So, let’s start off by getting a better understanding of why the selection of acids are called alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids. This is basically connected to the structure of the acids and how many times the molecule separates, for example, if it splits into one carbon atom, it becomes an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and if it separates into two carbon atoms, it’s a beta hydroxy acid (BHA).
Both groups of acids provide exfoliation to the top layer of the skin, the main difference is that salicylic acid and other BHAs are oil-soluble meaning they are able to penetrate deeply into the pores reaching an area of the skin other AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid are unable to. The exfoliation and ability to unclog the pores of any build-up of excess sebum, dirt, and bacteria your complexion is left revived, invigorated, and glowing, you’ll also find it is able to absorb other actives rapidly giving you faster results.
If you find you are still a little confused about the main difference between AHAs and BHAs there is more information about them over on The Beauty Insiders.
What is salicylic acid mainly used for?
Salicylic acid is known for being a highly potent anti-blemish ingredient. With its ability to slough away dead skin cells and work deeply in the pores, it can combat active spots and blemishes whilst simultaneously preventing any further breakouts from developing.
With medical grade salicylic acid providing peeling properties it isn’t just acne combating skincare products that contain the BHA. You’ll also find that those with dry skin conditions such as psoriasis and dandruff can be treated with specifically designed products. With this comes a word of warning, and that is to ensure you have consulted with a doctor or dermatologist to check including salicylic acid into your routine will be a benefit and avoid unwanted irritations.
Finally, there are some concerns, such as corns, calluses and warts that can also be removed and treated using a high concentrate of salicylic acid. This should only be used by a medically trained professional and not tried at home due to the potency of the BHA can lead to a lot of irritation, skin reactions, sever dryness, and discomfort.
Does lemon juice have salicylic acid?
Not really, although it does contain similar properties as salicylic acid, such as antioxidants to help combat the skin damaging free radicals, such as UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental aggressors.
In regard to lemon juice, you’ll find that it contains citric acid and vitamin C, both of which provide exfoliation to the outer layers of the skin and can treat signs of hyperpigmentation and dark spots. The downside to using lemon juice on the face to help target acne and blemishes is the fact it can become excessively drying to the skin, especially if you decide to use pure lemon juice as this will lack hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid.
As tempting as it may be to use lemon juice on the skin, I would advise against this as the pH levels of the juice will be too acidic which will disrupt the levels that naturally occur on the skin. An imbalance will lead to a flare-up in acne, dry patches of skin, redness, itchiness, and general discomfort.
How can I make salicylic acid peel at home?
Making a salicylic acid peel at home is an easier task than many may think, however, if you are wanting to give this a try, it is very important you consult with a doctor beforehand. Once you have the green light from your GP here is how you can use a salicylic acid peel at home.
Step one- Cleanse the skin and pat dry
Step two- Take your bottle of salicylic acid, preferably nothing higher than 15% and mix it in a bowl with your choice of carrier oil, such as sweet almond or olive oil
Step three- Using a fan brush, apply the salicylic acid and oil mixture over the skin avoiding the eye area
Step four- Ensure you keep a close eye on how your skin is feeling and leave the mixture on the face for no longer than 2 minutes
Step five- Rinse the mixture off the skin
Step six- Leave your skin slightly damp and apply a serum packed with hyaluronic acid to lock moisture into the skin
Step seven- Follow this in the morning with a sunscreen of SPF 50 for added protection from UV exposure
As I have already mentioned, do not try this at home without first consulting with your doctor. Salicylic acid is a highly potent ingredient which needs to be introduced into your routine slowly so only perform an at home acid peel once your skin has built some tolerance.
Can I use salicylic acid everyday? Yes, you can, but with caution as it very much depends on your skin type and whether your established routine contains other potent skin actives. This doesn’t mean you should avoid using salicylic acid but should remain mindful of how and when you should apply it to the skin. There is a lot more detail about using salicylic acid everyday over on our dedicated blog post, so check that out. There you have some answers to the questions we have received about what salicylic acid and the benefits you can expect to see on the skin. Don’t forget if you have any more skincare questions, come, and find us on Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
