What Not to Mix with AHAs and BHAs?
If you don’t use AHAs or BHAs in your daily skincare routine, you’ve probably at least heard of this family of chemical peels. Both groups of acids offer impressive and desirable benefits for the skin.
What are AHAs?
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of chemical exfoliants that work on the upper surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, dirt, debris, bacteria, and other impurities that, when left on the skin, can lead to problems like spots, acne, blemishes, and sagging, dull skin. The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids, which are found in many popular skincare products, such as toners and serums. They are also effective at combating signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles, as well as areas of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage.
The molecular size of AHAs is generally large, which means they can’t penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, thus avoiding over-irritation.
What are BHAs?
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are close cousins of AHAs and generally have similar exfoliating properties. The main difference is that BHAs are not as readily available in over-the-counter products as AHAs, but are used in professional treatments such as chemical peels. The most common form of salicylic acid is salicylic acid, which, like the other acids mentioned, dissolves dead skin cells and other impurities on the skin. However, compared to AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble and has a smaller molecule size, which means it can penetrate deep into the pores to remove excess sebum, dirt, and bacteria.
Now that you know what these clever acids do for the skin, let’s dig a little deeper and find out what not to mix with AHAs and BHAs.
What Should You Not Do After BHAs?
Here are some of the key skincare ingredients you should avoid applying to your skin after using AHAs and BHAs.
Vitamin C
Retinol
Benzoyl Peroxide
Body Scrub
This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use these active ingredients at the same time, just that you need to alternate the time you use them. Ideally, you should wait about 40 minutes between applications, as this ensures that the pH of your skin is rebalanced and ready for the product that follows. Remember not to rush into introducing new ingredients or products into your routine, especially if it works for you. Make sure the skincare products you choose complement each other and help you benefit from an effective routine.
What can I layer with AHAs and BHAs?
As both BHAs and AHAs exfoliate the skin, it’s best to combine them with moisturizing, nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalene or glycerin. All of these substances moisturize the skin and help soothe and calm it after the peel. This reveals that fresh skin cells often need help to stay healthy and protected from free radicals such as UV rays, pollution and other environmental influences.
If you’re concerned about layering active skin ingredients, it’s best to do a 24-hour patch test. To do this, apply a 10p-sized amount of the product to your forearm. Once the 24 hours have passed, if there are no signs of irritation, you can apply the product to your face.
Can I use niacinamide after an AHA BHA?
Yes, you can, but always make sure you apply it at the best time of day to avoid any unwanted irritation or reaction. What I mean by this is that you can determine when to use Niacinamide in your daily routine based on the type of product that contains AHAs or BHAs. The general skincare rule is to apply products in order from thinnest to thickest to avoid creating a physical barrier on the surface of the skin that prevents the product from penetrating the skin. You will often find Niacinamide in a serum or moisturizer that is applied to the skin later in your daily care routine. This gives you plenty of time to use an AHA-rich toner, such as glycolic acid, which can remove dead skin cells, and then Niacinamide helps the skin regulate sebum production and lock moisture into the protective barrier.
There is a dedicated blog post on The Beauty Insiders about mixing AHAs and BHAs with Niacinamide. Check it out if you want to learn more.
Can AHAs and BHAs be mixed with Hyaluronic Acid?
It is no surprise that Hyaluronic Acid is one of the very few skin ingredients that can be combined with almost any other active ingredient (even BHAs, salicylic acid) to be effective. For the best results, and without the signs of dryness caused by AHAs or BHAs, you can usually find serum formulas that contain both exfoliants and hyaluronic acid. This is ideal for the best of both worlds, but you can also use separate products to achieve the same hydrating and skin rejuvenating effects.
If you want to learn more about the best ways to apply hyaluronic acid with BHA, check out our dedicated blog post which has more details.
You can learn more about what not to mix AHAs and BHAs with here. Although it may feel complicated at first, you’ll find that once you have a better understanding, you’ll be able to really see improvements in your complexion. With an established skincare routine, you’ll be wary of introducing new products as this may cause skin irritation. However, stick with it and introduce new ingredients slowly. You should also always check with your doctor or dermatologist so that you and your skin love the products you use.
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