What to Do about Pesky Retinol Peeling
If you have ever used retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene, or tazarotene for their amazing anti-aging or acne-fighting benefits, you are probably familiar with one of their most notable side effects: skin peeling. Sometimes referred to as the “retinol uglies,” this skin flaking can be unsightly and is often made worse when you apply makeup or concealer on top of it. Retinol peeling is also often worse around the eyes and can make the delicate skin in this area look dull or tired.
Fortunately, there are some things you can do to fix and even minimize retinol peeling. Here, I discuss why your face gets flaky when using retinoids and what you can do about it.
Retinol peeling is normal and usually happens for the first several weeks after starting a new retinol regimen.
Gentle exfoliation, mixing an HA serum with your makeup, and using a barrier repair moisturizing cream can help with retinol peeling.
Gradually increase the strength and frequency with which you apply retinoids to minimize retinol peeling and dryness.
Why Does Retinol Peeling Happen?
Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover by increasing the rate of desquamation, which is the exfoliation process that your skin naturally undergoes to shed dead skin cells from the surface. Retinoids achieve this by boosting the activity of a growth factor called epidermal growth factor (EGF), which causes the outer layer of skin cells, called keratinocytes, to multiply and differentiate faster than usual (3, 4).
Research shows that retinoids enhance the number of EGF receptors, which in turn speeds up skin regeneration and repair. While this process is excellent for treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging, this rapid cell turnover often leads to the retinol peeling you see as dead skin cells shed at a faster rate than your skin is used to (5).
Increased epidermal growth factor also causes your skin’s outer layer to thicken (a process known as hyperplasia), which is actually a good thing, as it strengthens the skin barrier over time. However, during the initial phase of introducing a retinoid into your skin care regimen, this cell renewal process can cause peeling, dryness, and irritation as your skin adjusts.
How to Fix Retinol Peeling
While retinoids do commonly cause flaking and dryness for the first several weeks of use, you can help to minimize retinol peeling with these tips.
Gentle Exfoliation
Retinoids are already an exfoliant, so you do need to be careful not to over-exfoliate your skin while using them, which can make retinol peeling worse. However, you can use a gentle facial scrub when you need to get rid of the flakes for an important event or other instance when you want your skin to look its best. At other times, just let the desquamation happen on its own. Over time, the amount of retinol peeling you see should decrease.
Use gentle exfoliation about every three days and time it for when you need to wear makeup. Otherwise, makeup can become trapped in the crevices between flaking skin cells and accentuate their appearance.
Mix a Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Serum with Makeup
When you do need to wear makeup while introducing your skin to a retinoid, adding an HA serum to your makeup or concealer can help to smooth the skin and minimize the appearance of retinol peeling. My favorite serum for this purpose is the Alastin HA Immerse Serum.
You can also mix your regular moisturizer with makeup, but I find that the Alastin HA serum works best for retinol peeling, and I have tried many of them!
Use a Soothing Barrier Repair Moisturizer
Regularly applying a barrier repair moisturizer while using retinoids is essential to minimize flaking, dryness, and irritation. Barrier repair moisturizers help to keep moisture sealed inside your skin, while also keeping irritants out.
Some of my favorite barrier repair moisturizers to use with retinoids include:
How Long Does Retinol Peeling Last?
Generally speaking, retinol peeling can last around four weeks. However, the exact duration of the “retinol uglies” will vary from person to person and will depend on a number of factors, such as your skin type, how often you are using the retinoid, and the strength of the active ingredient. While many people are tempted to stop using retinoids when their skin begins to peel or becomes dry, do not give up! As your skin adjusts to retinol, flaking and dryness should subside and you will start seeing smoother, clearer, and more even-toned skin.
Can You Prevent Retinol Peeling?
While it is difficult to prevent all retinol peeling, especially when first starting a retinoid, there are some things you can do to minimize this common side effect. Most importantly, make sure you gradually introduce your skin to a retinoid. You can also talk to your dermatologist about starting with a lower strength retinoid if you have never used these ingredients before. You can then gradually work your way up to a stronger product to help minimize retinol peeling.
Additionally, know which ingredients don’t mix well with retinoids to help reduce retinol peeling. Do not use more than a gentle exfoliating scrub while using retinoids, as too much exfoliation will make flaking and peeling worse. If you are just starting a retinoid regimen, avoid products that contain acids like glycolic acid or salicylic acid, as these can make flaking and dryness worse. Of course, your skin care regimen should be tailored to your Baumann Skin Type so you do not make problems like dryness, redness, or irritation worse by using the wrong products for your skin.
Bottom Line
Retinoids like retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene are some of the best anti-aging ingredients out there. While the flaking they can cause – sometimes called retinol peeling or “retinol uglies” – makes many people afraid to use them, following the tips in this guide can help you reap the many benefits of retinoids while minimizing their side effects.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
