What You Need To Know About Oily Skin

Your skin naturally produces an oil clinically known as “sebum,” which helps preserve moisture. Oily skin occurs due to an overproduction of sebum, which can cause a shiny appearance and enlarged pores.1

Oily skin is very common, especially during adolescence, when it’s a major cause of the development of acne (pimples). Acne is common in about 85% of people ages 15-25.2 Acne and oily skin affect the appearance of your skin and may also affect your self-image.3

Successful approaches to managing oily skin focus on restoring the proper level of sebum.

Traits

Oily skin mainly affects the face, scalp, and upper torso. It’s often centered on the “T-zone,” which is the forehead, eyebrows, nose, and chin. Common signs of oily skin include:3

Waxy or shiny skin with a “greasy” appearance

Enlarged pores, which are the tiny holes in the skin that release oil and sweat

Acne, including red bumps (papules), white or yellow bumps (pustules), nodules (bumps beneath the skin), and cysts (pimples)

Closed comedones, or whiteheads

Open comedones, or blackheads

Seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff); itchy skin with white or yellow scales (may appear lighter or darker on brown or black skin)

Some people have “combination” skin, where parts of the skin are oily, while others are dry.4 The T-zone often remains oily in people with combination skin, with the cheeks or other parts of the face flaky and dry.

Causes of Oily Skin

In a process called holocrine secretion, the sebaceous glands (located at the roots of hair follicles) produce sebum from material from dead, used skin cells. They secrete this oil into the lipid layer outside the skin (stratum corneum).5 Oily skin happens when too much sebum is produced and disrupts the layer.

A wide range of factors can cause or worsen oily skin, like climate, hormonal shifts, genetics, and certain hygienic practices. Cases can occur due to a combination of these factors.

Genetics

There’s significant evidence that your genes play a role in oily skin and acne. In one wide-ranging study of identical and fraternal twins, researchers found that genes determined nearly half the variability in sebum production.6

Genetics may not be the only factor, but it clearly plays a big part.

Androgens

High levels of androgens—the class of sex hormones that includes testosterone—stimulate sebaceous gland overproduction in both females and males.7 Not only does this lead to oily skin, but it also spurs acne in adolescents or males using testosterone replacement therapy.8

Since estrogen—the hormone that regulates the female reproductive system—reduces sebum production, oily skin is more common in people assigned male at birth than in people assigned female at birth.9

Growth Hormones

Growth hormones like insulin and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) are produced in the pituitary gland, which is a part of your endocrine system. They regulate your height, bone length, and muscle development. High levels of these hormones stimulate your sebaceous glands to release more sebum.10

Because they’re more active during puberty, adolescents are more likely to have oily skin and acne.

High Glycemic Diet

Studies have linked high-glycemic diets, which are rich in carbohydrates and simple sugars, with sebum production. This may be due to effects on hormone activity, including spikes in insulin and IGF-1. High-glycemic foods include white or whole-wheat bread, white rice, many snack foods, potatoes, and sugar.11

Lack of Sleep

There’s a reason they call it beauty sleep. Not getting enough sleep doesn’t only leave bags under your eyes; it can also spur oil production. In one study of adults in South Korea with oily and non-oily skin, sebum levels were consistently lower after four hours of sleep.1

Skincare Practices

Certain hygiene practices and habits can worsen oily skin. Soaps, lotions, and other products made with alcohol or oil irritate the skin and break down the stratum corneum.12 Even though they may temporarily remove oil, this can trigger increased production.

Humidity

Your pores secrete sweat when exposed to hot or humid air, stimulating sebum production. Research has found that humid air can trigger acne and oily skin, especially when it’s hot. Humidity has also been linked to eczema flare-ups, which cause dry, flaky, and itchy skin.13

Effects and Complications

Oily skin can cause more frequent acne breakouts because excess oil can attract dirt and bacteria, which may infect pores and cause acne.3 It can also cause makeup to be patchy or tougher to apply and not last as long after application.

Having oily skin may affect self-esteem and lead to loneliness and social isolation. Across numerous studies, those with oily skin and acne had higher rates of anxiety and depression and were more likely to feel stress.14

How to Care for Oily Skin

Establishing a skincare routine can go a long way in managing oily skin, removing excess oils, and preventing acne. Several steps that may help include:144

Regular face washing: Wash your face twice a day—in the morning and before bed—and after exercise or physical activity. Be gentle.

Mild soaps: Don’t use alcohol or oil-based soaps, which can irritate skin and boost sebum levels. Foamy, gentle facewashes are best.

Moisturize: When skin gets too dry, the sebaceous glands become more active, producing more oil. Use an oil-free, gentle moisturizer.

Exfoliate: For oily skin, deep-cleaning exfoliants, such as glycolic acid, remove dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores. Exfoliate once or twice a week.

Facial toner: Use facial toners to moisturize skin and tighten pores.

Makeup removal: Remove any makeup before going to bed.

Do’s and Don’ts

When it comes to living with and managing oily skin, it’s important to develop good habits. The overall goal is skin that’s neither too oily nor too dry.

Oily Skin Do’s

Here’s what to do to care for oily skin:14

Check the ingredients: Make sure soaps, lotions, or other products are labeled “oil-free,” “noncomedogenic,” and “alcohol-free.”

Use blotting papers: Dab with blotting papers to remove excess oil, being careful not to irritate skin.

Block out UV rays: Protect your skin from the sun; use sunscreen or wear a hat to limit exposure.

Use safe makeup: If you wear makeup, use oil-free or water-based products and choose powders, concealers, and foundations that are “shine-free” or “mattifying.”

Change your brushes: Use brushes or pads rather than fingers to apply makeup and change these out regularly to prevent bacterial buildup.

Get help: If you’re having trouble managing oily skin on your own, talk to your provider or seek care from a dermatologist.

Oily Skin Don’ts

Mistakes people make when caring for oily skin often involve irritating or drying out the skin, disrupting the skin barrier, and boosting sebum production. Here’s what you shouldn’t do:14

Don’t use harsh soaps: Never use oil or alcohol-based soaps or lotions, and be gentle as you wash your face.

Don’t go to bed wearing makeup: Wearing makeup overnight can disrupt the skin barrier and trigger oiliness or other skin symptoms.

Don’t touch your face: Dirt and bacteria from the fingers on the face can reach the pores, causing acne. Limit how much you touch your face and avoid picking or popping pimples.

Don’t overdo it: Stick to a facial cleansing routine, but remember that cleaning too often can disrupt the stratum corneum, causing more sebum production.

Other Treatment Options

Beyond a skincare routine and good practices, there are a range of additional ways to manage and treat oily skin. These span from medications to lifestyle changes and other treatments.

Medications

In difficult-to-manage cases of oily skin, a dermatologist (skin specialist) may prescribe:9

Topical retinoids, a form of vitamin A applied to the skin

Hormonal birth control, which boosts estrogen levels to take on oil

Topical niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that promotes the skin barrier

Isotretinoin, an oral retinoid

Spironolactone, a diuretic (water pill) used for high blood pressure

Botulinum toxin A (Botox) injection

Dietary Changes

Since high-glycemic foods can cause oily skin and acne, modifying your diet to avoid them can be an additional means of management. Avoid sugars and carbohydrates while focusing on healthy, lean protein and fresh vegetable sources.

Natural Remedies

Many products are marketed to treat oily skin, but not all are effective.

There’s evidence that green tea may help, with eight weeks of regular application lowering measures of sebum in one study.9

Clay masking, wearing a mask made of clay to clean the skin, can effectively remove oil from the pores. In one study, clay masking twice weekly over four weeks reduced oiliness and acne.15

A Quick Review

Oily skin looks shiny or greasy. It occurs when glands in the skin produce too much sebum, secreting it from pores. A combination of genetic and environmental factors causes this condition, which can lead to frequent acne and affect quality of life.

Moisturizing and regularly cleaning the skin with gentle products are among the methods to manage oily skin. Dermatologists (skin specialists) can prescribe medications in severe or difficult-to-manage cases.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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