Which is better, Squalene or Squalane?
We’ve already talked about how stressful the skincare industry can be, especially when you consider two very similar-sounding ingredients that have come out today. But don’t worry, I’m here today to clear the air and put an end to any confusion you may have when trying to figure out which is better, Squalene or Squalane. So, armed with that knowledge, let’s get started!
Are Squalane and Squalene the Same?
Here’s a quick overview of the differences between Squalene and Squalane:
Squalene
Naturally found in the body, helps produce sebum (the skin’s natural oil)
Is a natural antioxidant that protects the skin barrier
Reduces fine lines and sun damage
Known to be unstable and have a short shelf life
Squalane
Formerly derived from shark liver, now made from vegetable oils
Can also be derived from Squalene through a hydrogenation process
More stable and has a longer shelf life than Squalene
Helps reduce signs of premature aging and dry skin patches
Squalene (with an “e”) is actually produced in the sebaceous glands of the skin inside the body. This is where sebum (the oil found in the body) is released to the surface of the skin, and the amount of oil on the surface can be determined based on your skin type. This means that oily skin produces more sebum than other skin types, but the general rule is that the skin needs a certain amount of sebum to remain healthy and function properly. Since squalene is a lipid, it can help maintain the health of the skin barrier by repairing damage while fighting free radicals (such as those caused by UV radiation and pollution).
However, squalene also has downsides: after the age of 30, squalene production decreases, causing the skin to show signs of premature aging and potentially become dry. To counteract this natural process, you can add additional moisturizing ingredients such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. There is also an interesting factor to consider with these two ingredients: Although squalene is in its natural form, it is very unstable, which is why many formulas have been developed to produce squalene versions. In order to create squalane with an “a”, it must undergo a hydrogenated state. This means that squalane has a longer shelf life and can be exposed to air without worrying about it oxidizing and losing its effectiveness.
As for squalane itself, it has been used in products for several years after being extracted from shark livers. For obvious reasons, people have turned to more ethical sources, resulting in squalane now coming from plants such as olive and rice bran, as well as other vegetable oils such as amaranth seed, wheat germ and sugar cane.
What does squalane do for your face?
It is estimated that squalene produces up to 12% of the skin’s natural oils and is essential for maintaining the health of the skin barrier. With its highly effective moisturizing properties, it keeps the skin looking and feeling hydrated. Squalane can significantly reduce the signs of ageing and dry patches by maintaining the overall health of the skin’s protective barrier by keeping natural water and oil levels at the right levels, allowing the skin to protect itself from free radical damage. This damage is caused by pollution, sunlight, central heating and other environmental aggressors that come into contact with the skin on a daily basis. With the help of squalane, your skin will become more plump, healthy, with an even texture and tone, and full of youthful elasticity.
Is squalane better than hyaluronic acid?
Similar to squalene, hyaluronic acid is also produced naturally in the body, but its production also decreases with age. Deciding which one is better is much more difficult, as both have impressive hydrating effects on the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, i.e. it can penetrate the skin and bind water to skin cells. This allows moisture from the product and surrounding facial areas to be absorbed into the skin, keeping the surface barrier fully hydrated and healthy.
Squalane can have a similar effect, but you’ll find that people with dehydrated and dry skin particularly benefit from squalane, as it can stimulate sebum production and keep the protective barrier looking and feeling healthy. Hyaluronic acid is a more effective ingredient for people with oily skin, as oily skin can show signs of uneven skin tone, and the appearance of acne scars can be significantly reduced.
Can Squalane and Vitamin C be used together?
In fact, yes, there are some serums and ingredients that work well together, and Vitamin C and Squalane is one of them! Serums usually have a lightweight consistency, so they are easy to apply, and can penetrate into the lower layers of the skin to reach areas of the skin that need more hydration or other treatments, from signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles to uneven skin tone. When applying Vitamin C and Squalane together, it’s best to apply Vitamin C first to treat dark spots and dull skin, and then apply Squalane for hydration.
Should Squalane be applied before or after moisturizer?
This depends on the product that incorporates Squalane. If it’s included in a face wash, serum, or toner, it should be applied before moisturizer. For best results, I recommend using an exfoliating toner with an AHA like glycolic or lactic acid to cleanse the skin and remove dead skin cell buildup. Once this barrier is removed, you can then apply a serum enriched with Squalane to nourish and moisturize cleansed skin. If you’re using this routine during the day for important UV protection, you can apply moisturizer, eye cream, and SPF sunscreen.
I hope today you have a better understanding of which ingredient is better and how to determine which is best for you and your skin type. If you’d like to learn more about Squalane and Squalene, you can read our blog post. Don’t forget to visit us on Instagram for daily posts, product launches, and giveaways!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.