Why GAGs Matter in Your Skincare Routine Today

Glycosaminoglycans in Skin and Skin Care Products

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are sugars in your skin that bind water. These important skin components are found in skin care products and dermal fillers because they give skin a young plump appearance that is sometimes called jello skin.

To know if you need glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate in your skincare routine- shop by your Baumann Skin Type.

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What are GAGs?

GAGS are chains of sugars in the skin known as polysaccharides. They link to a core protein forming proteoglycans.

Proteoglycans form an infrastructure in your skin and provide the environment that surrounds skin cells. This extracellular matrix (ECM) is critical for skin cells like fibroblast to function properly.

GAGs are like long, sticky chains made of sugars. Think of them like the beads on a necklace, where each bead is a sugar molecule. These chains are found in our skin, joints, and other parts of our bodies. In the skin, GAGs help keep it hydrated and bouncy because they can hold onto a lot of water. Just like a sponge soaks up water, GAGs do the same for our skin, making it look fresh and feel soft. It also provides a water filled environment for cell signals like growth factors and exosomes to move around and influence skin cells.

What do Glycosaminoglycans Do in the Skin?

GAGs are so important to skin health. They do many things for the skin:

Bind water

Contribute to salt and water balance

Provide an infrastructural matrix that fibroblasts adhere to

Affect fibroblast movement and function

All communicating molecules to move easily from cell to cell

Which Skin Care Products Have GAGs

Products with HA

Hyaluronic acid is a very popular antiaging ingredient in skin care. It hydrates skin, helps other products penetrate better, and plump up fine lines and wrinkles with its humectant properties.

However, topically applied HA does not get into the skin very well unless it is small pieces of the HA chain that have a low molecular weight. Most HA serums have many different sizes of HA chains in them.

Here are some of our favorite dermatologist-approved HA Serums:

Alastin HA Immerse Serum

Skinceuticals HA Intensifier

PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum

Filorga HYDRA-HYAL Intensive Hydrating Plumping Concentrate

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Find products with hyaluronic acid or heparan sulfate here:

ISDIN Hyaluronic Concentrate

$100.00

Add to Cart

Neocutis HYALIS+ Intensive Hydrating Serum

$82.00

Add to Cart

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Rich Cream

$32.00

Out of Stock

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Night Spa Cream and Face Mask

$32.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum

$20.99

Out of Stock

ClarityRx Daily Dose of Water Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum

$80.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Get Balanced Probiotic Serum

$78.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Take It Easy Calming Serum

$76.00

Add to Cart

Filorga HYDRA-HYAL Intensive Hydrating Plumping Concentrate

$69.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Concentrate

$100.00

Add to Cart

Neocutis HYALIS+ Intensive Hydrating Serum

$82.00

Add to Cart

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Rich Cream

$32.00

Out of Stock

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Night Spa Cream and Face Mask

$32.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum

$20.99

Out of Stock

ClarityRx Daily Dose of Water Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum

$80.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Get Balanced Probiotic Serum

$78.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Take It Easy Calming Serum

$76.00

Add to Cart

Filorga HYDRA-HYAL Intensive Hydrating Plumping Concentrate

$69.00

Out of Stock

ISDIN Hyaluronic Concentrate

$100.00

Add to Cart

Neocutis HYALIS+ Intensive Hydrating Serum

$82.00

Add to Cart

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Rich Cream

$32.00

Out of Stock

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Night Spa Cream and Face Mask

$32.00

Add to Cart

CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum

$20.99

Out of Stock

ClarityRx Daily Dose of Water Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum

$80.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Get Balanced Probiotic Serum

$78.00

Add to Cart

ClarityRx Take It Easy Calming Serum

$76.00

Add to Cart

Filorga HYDRA-HYAL Intensive Hydrating Plumping Concentrate

$69.00

Out of Stock

Glycosaminoglycans in Beauty Trends

The beauty trend that is hot right now is “jello skin”. Jello skin refers to the plumpness of the skin when there is an abundance of hydrated GAGs in the skin.

Glycosaminoglycans in Cosmetic Procedures

Hyaluronic acid is a GAG and is what dermal fillers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Voluma, Versa, RHA, and Belotero are made of. These dermal fillers are made up of crosslinked hyaluronic acid and injected in the skin to plump away fine lines and wrinkles and to reshape the volume of the face.

Glycosaminoglycans and Aging Skin

Wrinkled, aged skin has a decreased amount of sulfated GAG content and HA content. (Heparan sulfate and chondroitin sulfate are increased in photoaged skin but the overall amount of sulfated GAGs is decreased).

Glycosaminoglycans in Skin Care Products

The most common GAGs in skin care are hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate which are usually found in moisturizers and serums.

Which Glycosaminoglycans are in Skin?

Hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate are the most abundance GAGs in the skin. Other important GAGs that affect the skin’s appearance are heparan sulfate, heparin, keratan sulfate, chondroitin-4, and chondroitin-6-sulfate.

As far as skin care products are concerned hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate are the only GAGs used as anti-aging skin care ingredients.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is found in dermal fillers.

Here is a list of GAGs in skin:

Chondroitin sulfate: Mainly found in cartilage, it provides resistance against compressive forces. In skin, it helps maintain structure and hydration.

Dermatan sulfate: It replaces chondroitin sulfate in some tissues. Found mainly in the skin, tendons, and lungs, it’s involved in wound healing and skin elasticity.

Decorin: It’s not a GAG per se but a proteoglycan that contains a dermatan sulfate GAG chain. It interacts with collagen fibrils in the skin and helps regulate their formation.

Heparan sulfate: Present on cell surfaces and in the extracellular matrix, it plays a role in cell signaling and growth.

Hyaluronic acid (or hyaluronan): Highly hydrophilic and can hold large amounts of water, giving it a crucial role in skin hydration and tissue lubrication.

Keratan sulfate: Found in the cornea, cartilage, and bone, its functions in the skin are less well-defined but might be related to skin elasticity and hydration.

Heparan Sulfate

Heparan sulfate (HS) improves the cellular response to growth factors. HS levels are lower in aged skin and old skin cells do not respond well to growth factors because they don’t “hear” them.

HS protects growth factors when they move between cells, insuring that a higher amount of growth factors make it to the cell so that the communication abilities between cells is strengthened.[ii] Heparan sulfate is the active component in the brand of skincare called Sente.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a humectant that binds water and gives the dermal layer of the skin its volume and plumpness. The name hyaluronic stands for glass because it has a glassy appearance. HA is partially responsible for the glass skin and jello skin look desired by skin care enthusiasts.

Hyaluronic acid also increases the penetration of other skin care ingredients.

HA is critical for:

Cell growth,

Membrane receptor function, and adhesion.

Skin volume

Skin Plumpness

Cellular Communication

Learn more about Hyaluronic acid here

Other Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in Skin

Chondroitin sulfate, decorin, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate and heparin are also GAGs in the extracellular matrix. Aged skin has a decrease in heparan sulfate and chondroitin sulfate and an increase in keratan sulfate and dermatan sulfate.[iii], [iv]

Decorin

Decorin is a proteoglycan found in the extracellular matrix. Its name is derived from its apparent “decorating” of collagen fibers: it’s “horseshoe” pattern binds to collagen fibrils, helping to organize them properly. Decorin is sparse in aged skin [v] and decorin deficient mice have fragile skin.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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