Here’s Why There Is No Such Thing As A ‘Healthy’ Tan
Sunkissed skin may be aesthetically pleasing, but we’re here to tell you there is no such thing as a healthy tan, and your bronzed glow is quite literally a sign of skin cells in trauma.
*Viciously applies sunscreen to all exposed areas.
**^Good! So you should! Daily!
Before you double down on your vitamin d obsessed bestie, arm yourself with the cold, hard facts. And to save you the effort of surfing the web, we picked the brains of Dr Annika Smith, Consultant Dermatologist at The Skin Hospital Darlinghurst.
“Put simply, tanning is a sign of distressed skin and (irreversible) DNA damage. It’s actually the skin’s response to damage from the sun’s ultraviolet radiation. Our skin cells try to prevent further injury by producing melanin – a substance which gives skin its colour and causes darkening” explains Dr Smith.
This damage is cumulative and starts from your very first tan, incidental or otherwise. Each time you seek/experience a tan, the damage builds, you’re creating more genetic mutations, and fundamentally increasing your risk of developing skin cancer.
Appropriately dumped in the basket of life choices labelled ‘short term decisions with long term consequences’ (next to not brushing your teeth, and having musk sticks for breakfast), Dr Smith notes the short term effects of skin discomfort and sunburn experienced enroute to tanning, while further down the track you can expect ‘premature ageing of the skin (wrinkles, pigmentation) and the development of skin cancer’, which we know to be life threatening.
Australians have a pretty solid understanding of the dangers of the sun, given ours is so bitey, like, all year round, but we still have a long way to go. One Australian dies from melanoma every six hours, one Australian is diagnosed with melanoma every 30 minutes, and, it remains the most common cancer for Australians aged 20 to 39.
On the very off chance you simply couldn’t avoid the sun during peak UV periods, and perhaps didn’t quite nail that first round of sunscreen application, here’s what to do post sun: “Hydrate, steer clear of any further sun exposure, and keep your skincare simple. Moisturise, avoid actives that might dry or irritate the skin, and stick to lightweight formulations with ingredients that will calm and soothe. And most importantly, make sun protection part of your everyday skincare routine”.
To give yourself the best chance of protection, you have to tick all the boxes, not just a few. We’re talking SPF 50+ broad spectrum sunscreen, wearing a hat, clothing, sunglasses, seeking shade and avoiding sun in the middle of the day. “Sun protection can actually prevent the majority of skin cancers and at the end of the day, prevention is better than cure” states Dr Smith.
As expected, Dr Smith recommended everyone establish their risk profile with a GP or dermatologist when it comes to skin cancer, and set up a skin check regime that is right for you. “Get to know your skin and be on the lookout for anything new or changing as early detection offers the best chance of cure.” Look for freckles and moles that change in size, shape or colour. That spot that stands out from the rest – the ugly duckling – may be a clue to melanoma too.
Adequately spooked? Sorry (not sorry). We’re not (SP)F’ing around when it comes to skin health.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
