Can Azelaic Acid Be Used with Retin A?
Layering potent, powerhouse ingredients can often feel as though you are a wizard working over a bubbling cauldron at times. Especially if you find yourself reaching for the highest, and most effective actives, such as retin A and azelaic acid, admittedly, even their names sound like magic spells.
The question we have, is can azelaic acid be sued with retin A? This is something that we’ll work to get to the bottom of today, so stick around if you want some answers. But, before we do, we’ll have a brief recap of what each ingredient is able to deliver to the skin.
What are the benefits of retin A?
Retin A, a derivative of vitamin A, is a beloved skincare ingredient that is often applied to the face in potent topical formulas. The main benefits of using retin A in your daily skincare routine are the following.
Helps to regulate oily, and acne prone skin types by controlling the production of sebum.
Combats areas of hyperpigmentation, and dark spots helping them to become faded over time and less noticeable on the skin surface.
Increases the speed of the skin cell cycle ensuring new skin cells are on the outer surface giving the complexion a brightened, more even, smoother finish.
Targets signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity.
There are some side effects you must remain aware of, and that is due to the high potency of retin A and its derivatives can cause increased skin sensitivity and severe dryness. You must also remember to use this potent powerhouse during your evening routine, as exposure to UV rays causes retin A to become ineffective. If you wanted to know more about retin A, we have a number of blog posts about it over on the Beauty Insiders.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Derived from grains, such as wheat, rye, and barley, azelaic acid is certainly an unsung skin hero. Often overshadowed by other trending ingredients, this acid delivers an array of benefits for the skin, such as.
Contains anti-inflammatory properties meaning it can work at reducing any flare-ups in redness and rosacea.
Rich in anti-bacterial benefits so can combat acne, breakouts, and clear pores that are clogged by excess sebum, bacteria, and impurities.
Works on the outer surface of the skin and sloughs away the layer of dead skin cells keeping the skin vibrant and healthy.
Targets areas of hyperpigmentation, and dark spots leaving the complexion lightened, brightened, and with an even skin tone.
As I have already mentioned, azelaic acid is certainly under the radar when it comes to skincare ingredients. As effective as it is at improving the skin, it can take some to take effect, this will explain why professionals, and dermatologists rarely choose to prescribe it. This doesn’t, however, suggest you should avoid introducing azelaic acid into your daily routine. There are plenty of over-the-counter formulas that will deliver results and benefit the skin. Find out more about this clever ingredient, over on our dedicated blog post.
Now we’ve cleared up a few things, we can explore these two ingredients further and find the most effective way of using them together.
Can I use azelaic acid and retin A together?
In a word, yes, but only if you follow the application rules. By this I mean ensuring you layer these actives the correct way to gain optimal results, whilst avoiding any unwanted side effects.
There are a couple of different ways you can apply retin A and azelaic acid together, and that is to alternate when you apply each active throughout the week in the evenings. You can also decide to apply azelaic acid in the morning, followed with retin A for your evening skincare routine. You are also able to apply both during the same routine ensuring you leave 20 to 30 minutes between applications; just be sure you have built your skin’s tolerance to both ingredients before teaming them together. Having a brief break in between applications will allow enough time for the pH levels in the skin to rebalance and prepare for the next application. You can also team these two potent powerhouses with other hydrating actives that will lock hydration into the skin keeping the natural lipid barrier fully functioning and healthy.
Do I apply azelaic acid before or after retinol?
This depends on the product formula containing each active. What I mean by this is remembering there is a basic skincare application rule which means applying your skincare products from thinnest to thickest consistency. This will ensure each product can absorb into the skin thoroughly without having to compete with any barriers created by other thicker formulas.
You will often find that azelaic acid and retin A are formulated into similar products. To gain optimal results, I would suggest using an exfoliating toner enriched in azelaic acid, followed with a serum packed with hyaluronic acid, finished off with another serum or moisturiser containing retinol. Using these actives in the evening will result in each ingredient having the opportunity to work in the skin without any disruption caused from exposure to free radicals, such as pollution, UV light, and other environmental aggressors.
Is azelaic acid better than retin A?
I have spent some time explaining how azelaic acid and retin A work effectively together, but how do the benefits of these clever actives compare to each other? The easiest way to determine which one is better for you and your skin is taking into consideration these factors.
How sensitive your skin is and how prone to dryness it can be
Choosing which ingredient you decide to use in your routine will be very much dependant on the sensitivity of your skin. Retinol for example, is notorious drying ingredient, so if you have a dry skin type or reactive skin that can become easily irritated, you may be better off opting to use azelaic acid instead.
Establishing what skin concerns you are wanting to address
Although both azelaic acid and retinol contain similar traits, such as antibacterial properties, retinol is known for its impressive ability to combat signs of ageing, from fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. So, if it’s ageing you are wanting to address, retinol is your best option. Otherwise, you can use azelaic acid to combat acne, breakouts, or clogged pores.
Figuring out the core root of the problem
If you are finding figuring out the root of the problem, I suggest consulting with a doctor, dermatologist, or medical professional to investigate each of these ingredients further to help conclude which would benefit the skin, and which would cause more concern.
I hope that today has answered some of your questions you had about using azelaic acid and retin A together. Don’t forget to come and find us on Instagram for more skincare tips, or find one of our skincare experts if you have any further questions.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.