Can You Mix Azelaic Acid and BHA?
There is a lot of research backing the benefits of azelaic acid and how it works on the skin. Although it’s still one of the lesser-known acids, in recent years there has been a surge in popularity with many of us realising how this powerhouse is the missing ingredient in our daily skincare routine.
BHA on the other hand, especially salicylic acid has established itself as the key ingredient to tackling problematic skin. It’s known for its potency and effectiveness at combating spots, blemishes, and acne. With this comes some side effects, such as dryness to the skin, itchiness, and mild irritation.
If you find yourself getting a little confused with each of these ingredients and whether they would work in your routine, here is a brief recap.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Derived from grains, such as barley, wheat, and rye
Helps to unclog pores of excess sebum, bacteria, dirt, debris, and surface impurities
Evens out the skin tone reducing the appearance of dark spots, sun damage, post acne marks, and melasma
Slough away the build-up of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, revealing a younger looking, smoother complexion
If you wanted to know more about azelaic acid and how it works on the skin, check out our dedicated blog post.
What are the benefits of BHA?
Most used BHA, salicylic acid is derived from willow bark
Often oil-soluble and works deeply into the pores unclogging them of the build-up of gunk
Exfoliates the outer surface of the skin ridding it of dead skin cells and debris
Decreases inflammations, such as breakouts and spots
For more information about BHA, check out our blog about the skin benefits of AHA and BHA.
Now that you’ve had a quick researcher on these ingredients, let’s now dive in to finding out more about whether you can mix them or not.
Can you use BHA and azelaic acid together?
Yes, it is thought safe to use BHA and azelaic acid together. To avoid any unwanted skin reaction, it’s best to not layer them together. Teaming these powerhouse ingredients are a perfect combination when tackling all sorts of skin concerns, such as breakouts, spots, uneven skin tone, signs of ageing, and a lack lustre complexion. Try using the ingredients, leaving enough time in between applications, such as 30 minutes, to ensure the pH levels of the skin have had a chance to rebalance and settle. Mixing them together will result in irritation, increases sensitivity, rashes, and redness.
We have a fully dedicated blog post about using azelaic acid and BHA together, so check that out for more.
What should you not mix with BHA?
There are a few ingredients that should be avoided mixing with a BHA, such as salicylic acid.
Do not mix with AHAs- Applying too many acids can have too much exfoliation to the skin which can often strip it of the vital sebum needed. When the skin barrier is lacking the correct level of sebum, it can begin to over produce sebum which will lead to more breakouts, spots, and acne.
Do not mix with retinol- both these ingredients are highly potent and must be avoided applying together as this will lead to severe side effects and irritation to the skin.
Do not mix niacinamide with AHAs and BHAs as the difference in pH levels can cause redness and the pH levels of niacinamide, such as 5-7. This can cause the acids to not work as effectively making them unable to deliver their results.
Can you mix azelaic acid and salicylic acid?
No, you should not mix azelaic acid and salicylic acid as this will increase the chances of your skin becoming irritated. This is because azelaic acid works on the outer layers of the skin, whilst salicylic acid can penetrate further into the skin. This will result in too much stimulation for the face, leading to itchiness, redness, sensitivity to sun exposure, and overall discomfort.
If you wished to use azelaic acid and salicylic acid in your skincare routine, the best way of doing this is to alternate when you apply them on the skin. You can either apply each active during your evening routine, or apply azelaic acid in the morning, followed with salicylic acid in the evening. Just ensure you always apply a daily SPF of 30 and above to keep the skin protected from exposure to UV damage.
Is azelaic acid an AHA or BHA?
Surprisingly, it is neither an AHA nor BHA. It is naturally occurring in the skin and is derived from grains, such as wheat, rye, and barley. It’s this form of yeast that is formulated into an array of skincare products. Azelaic acid still delivers similar results and benefits the skin by exfoliating away the dead skin cells, ridding the complexion of impurities, and giving an all-over improved finish.
Where does azelaic acid go in routine?
If you’ve built the skin’s tolerance to using azelaic acid, there are a couple of products enriched in azelaic acid you can use in your daily routine. The most popular formulas are cleansers, and exfoliating toners. These products are the best to start with when you first introduce azelaic acid into your routine as they are rinsed off the skin avoiding too much irritation. Following your cleanser or toner with a serum packed with hyaluronic acid will counteract any dryness and instead lock moisture into the skin and keep it hydrated and comfortable.
Can I use azelaic acid on wet skin?
Not really, this is because the percentage of azelaic acid used in formulas such as serums, and creams are often prescription strengths and applying them to damp skin will in fact, cause skin irritation.
There you have a little more information about mixing azelaic acid and BHA. If you have any further questions about using these powerhouses together, come, and follow us on Instagram, you can find one of our skincare experts in the direct messages.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
