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I only did these 3 skin care steps, but my skin has never been better
Beauty

I only did these 3 skin care steps, but my skin has never been better

11 December 2024


Skin care is never easy for many of us. It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed when you stroll down the aisles of Boots and see everything from AHAs to antioxidant serums, and don’t even get me started on retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoids. Because I’m a beauty writer, I signed up to get into the details of each ingredient. But no matter how many products I choose and try, I always end up choosing variations of the same three. That’s where CSA comes into play. What is a CSA skincare routine? The CSA skincare concept is pioneered by skincare brand Medik8 and, in my opinion, it’s the perfect routine. It revolves around the use of vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A (also known as retinol), hence the abbreviation CSA. However, the CSA skincare routine is nothing new. Medik8 first introduced this method in 2009 and has been using it ever since, making skin care a lot easier for many people. So far, it seems to be working.




“These three steps show the importance of reducing the number of skincare products you buy and taking a more hands-on approach to skincare,” explains dermatologist Sonia Khorana. According to No7, 75% of women only use one-third of their skincare routine, which can be good for our faces and our finances.



“I often talk about the benefits of ‘dermaplaning’ and how you don’t need a 10-step skincare routine to see the benefits,” adds Dr. Sonia, and I can’t help but agree.




My bathroom shelves may be stacked with lotions and potions (many of which are great), but my must-haves make up a small percentage and they almost always fall under those three letters.



Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a buy from my desert island beauty. “Firstly, it’s a powerful antioxidant,” explains Daniel Isaacs, head of research at Medik8.




Daniel explains that vitamin C neutralises harmful free radicals from the sun and environment, preventing them from attacking skin cells and causing signs of skin damage.



It’s been about a year since I started using a few drops of Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe (£59) every morning, and my face has never looked brighter, smoother or more even-toned. It makes sense, because Dr. Sonia explains that vitamin C “helps improve pigmentation and uneven skin tone, rebuild collagen, and protect the skin from environmental stressors and damage.”




When used in combination, it can even boost the effectiveness of your sunscreen. SPF: We’re all aware of the importance of sunscreen, so it’s undoubtedly the most important step in any skin-care routine. “Sunscreen should be applied daily to protect against UV rays,” Daniel explains.



“UVA in particular is present all year round and can penetrate clouds and glass. So yes, even if you’re sitting at a table by a window, you might want to invest in a sunscreen with a high SPF. Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen.




My personal approach to sunscreen needs work. Whether you’re working from home or commuting to the office by tube, it can seem like a pointless step to spend the day indoors. But experts say it’s not.



So it’s important to find a product that’s actually fun to use. Excellent! Mattescreen, £34, is my favourite, but I usually switch it up after each use. Also try Inkey List Polyglutamate Dewy Sunscreen SPF30, £14.99, and Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protection SPF50 PA++++, £59.




Vitamin A: The third and final step in the CSA concept is vitamin A, also known as retinol, which Dr. Sonia describes as a “skin superhero that helps rebuild collagen, fade pigmentation, address texture imperfections and improve oil control.” ”People’s love for this ingredient seems limitless, but it does have some downsides. Swelling of the skin (in the form of breakouts), redness and dry skin are all side effects of retinol. But Medik8 has options for almost every skin type, even the most sensitive. Full instructions can be found here. “The motto at Medik8 is: go slow, go slow,” says Daniel, who recommends using a low concentration of retinaldehyde. Retinaldehyde belongs to the retinoid family and works faster than the classic form of retinol. “There is a ton of published research supporting its effectiveness,” says Daniel, who acknowledges that retinaldehyde has collagen-boosting properties. He adds that it can rejuvenate the skin and give it a more even tone and texture.



Daniel likens this to prescription skin care, which is only available from a dermatologist. Slowly work the ingredients into your skin so as not to overwhelm it. Daniel recommends using an encapsulated retinaldehyde like Medik8’s




0.03% Crystal Retinaldehyde, £49.



Encapsulation usually means the retinaldehyde is wrapped in a moisturizing ingredient like a skin-friendly oil, making it a better choice for those with sensitive skin. Medik8 also means the Retinal isn’t




derived from the environment, so it’s more effective.



Use twice a week in the evenings for the first two weeks, then every other night for the next two weeks to prepare for nighttime use. Once your skin has accepted the molecules without irritation, you can switch to a higher strength to maximise results.




Following advice about six months ago, I now use Medik8 0.06% Crystal Retinal, £66, twice a week and my skin has never looked better. Fine lines that were starting to form have been reduced, my bumpy texture has been smoothed out and my pores are less noticeable than before.



Retinol serum, £21. Final thoughts It’s taken me years to find a skincare routine that not only works but takes less than five minutes morning and night, and I think I’ve finally nailed it with this three-step process. The only products not included in the CSA method are cleanser and either a night cream (I’m currently using the new No7 Future Renew Night Cream, £34) or an eye cream.




If you want to include the latter, it could definitely fall into the vitamin C or even retinol category, especially if you’re fully committed to the cause. Of course, any skincare brand will do, no matter your budget. So what about other skincare products? Well, you don’t have to throw out your hyaluronic acid serum just yet. “In my opinion, these three ingredients (CSAs) are absolutely must-haves for any skincare routine, and you can supplement them based on your specific skin concerns,” explains Dr. Sonia. “If someone has acne-prone skin, they may need to add a toner or salicylic acid product to address their concerns,” she adds.



Similarly, someone with very dry skin may need to use a rich moisturizer before applying sunscreen or after applying retinol. “Someone with rosacea-prone skin may need less vitamin A,” adds Dr. Sonia, adding that for dull skin, some people may want to use a glycolic acid product instead of retinol. Here’s how to tweak the three-step process to suit your needs. If a simple yet effective skincare routine is on your wish list this season, it shows that sometimes less is more.





DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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