Kojic Acid Explained: Uses, Safety, and the Right Way to Use It in Your Routine

Kojic acid in skin care

Kojic acid in cosmeceutical skin care products

Kojic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor used to lighten skin and treat hyperpigmentation.

The best kojic acid products are serums, toners, lotions, and creams.

Best kojic acid skin care products

Dermatologist-recommended skin lightening products with kojic acid are combined with other skin lightening ingredients.

The 5 best kojic acid products for the face are:

Biopelle Brightening KNR Serum

Derma Made Mela Fade

SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 10% Serum

PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free

Benefits

What does kojic acid do to your face?

Kojic acid has many skin benefits.

Lightens dark spots

Treats hyperpigmentation

Improves melasma

Exfoliates

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Best products

The strongest kojic acid products have more than 1%, they are more likely to cause side effects.

It is hydrophilic.

This means it is most effective in toners, essences, mists, gels and serums.

It is best when used in leave-on products.

This ingredient isn’t the best in soaps because it rinses off too quickly.

It can also be found in lotions and moisturizers.

Kojic acid oils are not very effective.

It has minimal efficacy in oils and heavy fatty acid rich creams because it is hydrophilic.

Kojic acid pads are effective.

Skin care routines

Kojic acid is poorly absorbed into the skin. The skin care routine order should be designed to increase skin penetration of kojic acid.

How to layer your regimen

Using the wrong cleanser and moisturizer can prevent kojic acid from getting into the skin. They way you layer products with kojic acid is important.

Here are some tips about layering kojic acid:

Combine kojic acid with hydroxyacids such as glycolic acid

Use hyaluronic acid serum in the same skin car eregimen

Use with retinoids and corticosteroids

Hydroxyacids loosen attachments between skin cells allowing increased absorption. These acids also help keep the skin pH lower which increases efficacy of kojic acid on the skin.

Lee et al. reported on derivatives of kojic acid displaying increased efficiency through increased penetration into the skin, however there are not any commercially available kojic acid derivatives that we could find on the market. (3)

In two separate studies, kojic acid combined with glycolic acid was shown to be more effective when compared with 10% glycolic acid and 4% HQ for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.(33,34)

A study by Lim compared the effect of a gel containing 10% glycolic acid and 2% HQ with and without 2% kojic acid.33 The result was that the addition of kojic acid to the gel further improved melasma.

Peels

Kojic acid is often used in in-office chemical peels to even skin tone.

It may also be found in masks and peel pads to use at home.

How to use kojic acid soap?

Kojic acid soap, cleansers and face wash are not very effective because the contact time with the skin is not long enough to cause skin lightening.

Kojic acid soap is safe, but not worth the price.

Even if you are using the kojic acid soap from CVS, it is still a waste of money.

We suggest using a glycolic acid cleanser instead and following it with a serum containing kojic acid.

But- if you want to be certain the products you buy are right for your skin type, take the quiz so we can guide you.

Take the Quiz

Skin lightening

Kojic acid in skin care is most often used for its skin lightening capabilities. Kojic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor and an exfoliant.

It decreases tyrosinase activity by chelating copper.

How long does it take for kojic acid to lighten skin?

Tyrosinase inhibitors like kojic acid take 12-16 weeks to lighten dark spots on the skin.

If you are not improved in 3 months- you need to take a holiday from kojic acid for 2- 4 weeks and then restart.

Is kojic acid a clean ingredient?

Yes kojic acid is considered a clean ingredient and has no bad effects on marine life or the environment,

Is kojic acid a natural ingredient?

Kojic acid is produced by various species of Aspergillus, Acetobacter, and Penicillium.

Although kojic acid comes from a fungus, it is made in the lab and is not considered a natural ingredient.

Chemical structure of kojic acid

Kojic has a similar chemical structure to hydroquinone.

If you are allergic to hydroquinone- you may be allergic to kojic acid.

Kojic Acid Derivatives

Kojic Dipalmitate- better stability and less skin irritation

Kojic Monooleate- superior moisturizing properties

Kojic Acid Mannich Bases- enhanced antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase abilities

Kojyl Thioether Derivatives- strong anti-inflammatory properties.

Kojic Acid Peptide- combines the skin brightening effects of kojic acid with the anti-aging benefits of peptides

Kojic Acid-Phenylalanine Amide with Metal Complex- enhances cell permeability and inhibits melanogenesis more effectively.

Kojic-βAla-Kojic- potent tyrosinase inhibition.

These derivatives enhance the properties of kojic acid, making them versatile and effective in various skincare formulations aimed at treating hyperpigmentation, providing anti-aging benefits.

If you are allergic to kojic acid, there is a possibility that you might also be allergic to its derivatives. Allergies are often related to the molecular structure of a compound, and derivatives, while modified, still share a significant portion of their chemical makeup with the parent compound (kojic acid).

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Kojic acid for Melasma

Kojic acid can be used for melasma.

However, melasma is hard to get rid of permanently and using kojic acid alone sisnot enough.

You need an entire skin care routine dedicated to focusing on melasma to get the best results. Kojic acid is just one of many ingredients found in melasma skin care treatment products.

We can help you build a skin care routine for your Baumann Skin type.

Take the Quiz

Kojic acid for dark spots

Kojic acid is a treatment for dark spots that is very similar to hydroquinone.

It lightness dark spots by:

preventing the production of melanin

exfoliating away darkly pigmented skin cells

Kojic acid for acne

Kojic acid can help clear acne because it:

lowers skin pH

kills acne bacteria

exfoliates

lightens dark acne scars (these are not true scars but are hyperpigmentation which will go away.)

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Can kojic acid lighten skin permanently?

No the effects of kojic acid are temporary.

A few days after stopping kojic acid, the tyrosinase enzyme becomes functional again.

This is why kojic acid needs to be used 1-2 times a day.

Is kojic acid the best ingredient for you?

It depends upon your Baumann Skin Type

Take the Quiz

How long does it take for kojic acid to lighten the skin?

A skin care routine customized for your skin type can take 8-16 weeks to clear hyperpigmentation.

You must think of every step in the routine for best results because some moisturizers can inactivate kojic acid.

If your dark spots don’t clear in 3 months read this.

Is kojic acid safe?

Unless you are allergic, kojic acid is safe.

Kojic acid safety

The EWG scores kojic acid as a 6-7 but it is unclear why it received this poor rating.

Kojic acid has been extensively used in foods, and there have been many reports on its oral safety. Kojic acid is used in food to prevent browning and to promote reddening of unripe strawberries.

It seem to be safe orally. Only one Japanese study showed toxicity resulting from an oral dose which was associated with the occurrence of hepatocellular tumors in p53-deficient mice.(27)

Kojic acid should not be injected. Convulsions may occur if kojic acid is injected.30

Kojic acid 4% is much more likely to cause side effects when used topically on skin.

Most kojic acid serums are 1%-2%.

Pregnancy

Kojic acid is safe to use during pregnancy. It has low systemic absorption and does not harm the fetus (Ref 40)

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Kojic acid side effects

The side effects seen with kojic acid are:

allergy

contact dermatitis

stinging

irritation

rash

over-exfoliation when combined with other exfoliants.

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Can kojic acid cause a skin allergy or irritate skin?

Yes. Kojic acid is a common skin allergen.

Topical kojic acid can cause allergies and irritation(26,31) especially in formulations using a 2.5% concentrations of kojic acid.

For this reason a concentration of 1% is usually used, but there have been reports of sensitization to 1% creams as well.34

You are more likely to be allergic to kojic acid when you have a hydroquinone allergy.

Does kojic acid cause cancer?

Kojic acid is very similar to hydroquinone. However, it has never been reported to cause cancer.

When to use kojic acid in my skin care routine?

Kojic acid should be used in step 3 of the morning and evening skin care routine.

However, this may vary depending on your Baumann Skin Type.

Kojic acid should be sued before a moisturizer and before retinol.

In some cases it may be included in a retinol or moisturizer.

Let us help you build a skin care routine and see if kojic acid is right or your skin type.

We will give you a step by step routine so you will know exactly when to use kojic acid.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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