Retinoic Acid Receptors and Importance in Skincare

Retinoic acid receptors (RARs) are critical regulators of skin health and are pivotal in the treatment of various dermatological conditions, including aging, hyperpigmentation, and acne. These nuclear receptors, namely RAR alpha (α), beta (β), and gamma (γ), play distinct roles in cellular processes by modulating gene expression. Understanding how different RARs influence these pathways can help in choosing the appropriate retinoid creams and ointments—such as adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene, and trifarotene—based on their specificity and activity towards different RARs.

Comparison of Retinoic Acid Receptors

There are three main RAR receptors that are understood enough to be targets of skincare treatments to treat skin concerns like aging, acne and hyperpigmentation. Their actions are described below.

Retinoic acid receptor alpha

RAR α

RAR alpha has several pathways that get turned on that play a role in skin care. Tretinoin and tazarotene bind RAR alpha.

Tazarotene shows stronger binding affinity to RARs, including RAR α, compared to tretinoin. While tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is a first-generation retinoid that has a natural affinity for all three RARs (α, β, and γ), its binding efficiency is somewhat less selective and potent than that of tazarotene. Despite tazarotene’s stronger binding to RAR α, the choice between tretinoin and tazarotene for a specific condition should consider factors such as the condition’s severity, the skin’s sensitivity, and the individual’s Baumann Skin Type. Each retinoid has a unique profile that may make it more suitable for certain skin types and conditions.

RAR α and Skin Aging

RAR α plays a pivotal role in the skin’s aging process and its treatment. It is directly involved in the regulation of genes responsible for collagen production, a critical protein for skin elasticity and firmness. Activation of RAR α by retinoids such as tretinoin leads to increased collagen synthesis, contributing significantly to reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This effect on collagen production underlines the potent anti-aging properties of RAR α-activating retinoids, making them foundational in dermatological approaches to combat signs of aging.

Furthermore, RAR α activation promotes skin renewal and may help in repairing photo-damaged skin. By enhancing the turnover of skin cells, it helps in the removal of damaged cells and stimulates the growth of a healthier skin layer. This regenerative capacity is crucial for maintaining skin vitality and reducing the cumulative impacts of environmental exposure on skin aging.

RAR α and Pigmentation

RAR α modulates the activity of genes involved in melanin production, the pigment responsible for skin color. By regulating these pathways, RAR α-activating retinoids can help correct hyperpigmentation disorders, such as age spots and melasma, leading to a more even skin tone. This modulation of pigmentation processes is particularly beneficial in the context of photoaging, where uneven pigmentation is a common concern.

RAR α also plays a role in the normalization of pigment distribution. By accelerating cellular turnover, it increases desquamation and facilitates the quicker removal of hyperpigmented skin cells, enhancing the effectiveness of treatments aimed at reducing visible pigmentation.

RAR α and Acne

RAR α regulates genes that control keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, processes that, when dysregulated, contribute to acne development. Activation of RAR α leads to decreased cohesiveness of keratinocytes within the follicular epithelium, preventing comedone formation and promoting the resolution of existing lesions.

RAR α also modulated sebum production and inflammation, two additional critical factors in acne pathogenesis. By modulating these processes, RAR α-activating retinoids not only clear existing acne lesions but also prevent new ones from forming. This comprehensive action makes RAR α a central target in acne treatment strategies.

RAR b

RAR β

Research suggests that RAR β may contribute to the regulation of genes involved in the extracellular matrix’s maintenance, including collagen and elastin. This regulation is crucial for skin elasticity, firmness, and the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. It is thought that RAR β may play a role in the modulation of melanin synthesis pathways and in the regulation of pigment cell (melanocyte) biology. Retinoids that activate RAR β could help normalize pigment production and contribute to the reduction of hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

RAR β may influence skin renewal and sebaceous gland function as part of its broader regulatory impact on skin homeostasis. By modulating these processes, retinoids acting on RAR β can help normalize the shedding of skin cells in the follicle, reducing the likelihood of pore blockages that lead to acne formations. Furthermore, the regulatory actions of RAR β could complement the direct effects of RAR α and γ on keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation, offering a multi-faceted approach to acne treatment that addresses both the symptoms and underlying causes of acne.

RAR β plays a supportive yet essential role in skin health, complementing the activities of RAR α and γ. Through its involvement in collagen production, pigmentation regulation, and acne management, RAR β contributes to the comprehensive therapeutic effects of retinoids in dermatology. Understanding these nuanced roles enables dermatologists to tailor treatments more precisely, potentially leading to improved outcomes for patients with various skin conditions.

RAR β and Aging

RAR β’s involvement in aging and collagen synthesis, although less documented compared to RAR α and γ, is significant for skin health and regeneration. Research suggests that RAR β may contribute to the regulation of genes involved in the extracellular matrix’s maintenance, including collagen and elastin. This regulation is crucial for skin elasticity, firmness, and the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. By influencing these pathways, RAR β could support the skin’s natural repair processes, potentially mitigating some aging signs. The activation of RAR β by certain retinoids may, therefore, complement the more pronounced effects of RAR α activation on skin aging, offering a more holistic approach to anti-aging treatments.

RAR β and Pigmentation

The precise mechanisms through which RAR β influences pigmentation remain an area of ongoing investigation. However, it is thought that RAR β may play a role in the modulation of melanin synthesis pathways and in the regulation of pigment cell (melanocyte) biology. By affecting these cellular processes, retinoids that activate RAR β could help normalize pigment production and contribute to the reduction of hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This effect, in conjunction with other skin renewal and pigment-dispersing actions of retinoids, suggests that RAR β activity is part of a complex interplay that addresses pigmentation issues.

RAR β and Acne

In the context of acne, RAR β’s role, while indirect, is nonetheless important. It is believed that RAR β may influence skin renewal and sebaceous gland function as part of its broader regulatory impact on skin homeostasis. By modulating these processes, retinoids acting on RAR β can help normalize the shedding of skin cells in the follicle, reducing the likelihood of pore blockages that lead to acne formations. Furthermore, the regulatory actions of RAR β could complement the direct effects of RAR α and γ on keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation, offering a multi-faceted approach to acne treatment that addresses both the symptoms and underlying causes of acne.

RAR G

RAR γ

RAR γ is notably the most abundant retinoic acid receptor in the skin, playing a crucial role in epidermal maturation and barrier function. Its activation is central to modulating gene expression related to skin cell growth and differentiation.

RAR γ and Skin Aging

In the context of aging, RAR γ’s involvement goes beyond mere cell turnover; it also includes the stimulation of collagen production in the dermis, which is fundamental for reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. The activation of RAR γ by specific retinoids can enhance the skin’s overall structure and function, leading to visible anti-aging effects. This receptor’s action on collagen and other matrix components underlines its importance in treatments aimed at reversing or mitigating the signs of skin aging.

RAR γ and Pigmentation

In pigmentation disorders, RAR γ’s role is multifaceted. By promoting epidermal turnover, RAR γ activation can expedite the removal of hyperpigmented skin layers, leading to a more even skin tone. Moreover, there is evidence to suggest that RAR γ may influence the melanogenesis process indirectly through its effects on keratinocyte and melanocyte interactions. By normalizing these cellular dynamics, retinoids targeting RAR γ can help in managing conditions like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, contributing to a reduction in unwanted pigmentation and an improvement in overall skin appearance.

RAR γ and Acne

RAR γ’s significance in acne treatment is well-documented and largely attributed to its profound impact on follicular epithelial cells. Activation of RAR γ leads to the modulation of keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, which in turn can decrease comedogenesis—the formation of comedones or acne lesions. Moreover, RAR γ influences sebaceous gland activity and reduces the inflammatory processes associated with acne. This comprehensive approach not only targets the visible symptoms of acne but also addresses the root causes, including abnormal desquamation, excess sebum production, and inflammation. Retinoids such as adapalene and trifarotene, which are selective for RAR β and γ, with a particular emphasis on RAR γ, are thus highly effective in the topical treatment of acne.

RAR γ and Toll like Receptors

RAR γ is particularly noteworthy for its role in modulating Toll-like Receptor 2 TLR2 activity and thus influencing acne development. RAR γ, prevalent in the skin, impacts keratinocyte differentiation, sebaceous gland function, and the immune response, all of which are relevant to acne pathogenesis. The connection between RARs and TLR2 occurs through the regulatory effects of retinoids (activating RARs) on gene expression that controls skin cell behavior and immune responses. Specifically, retinoids can modulate the expression of genes involved in the innate immune response, including those related to TLR2. By regulating TLR2 expression and signaling, RARs, particularly RAR γ, can reduce the inflammatory response triggered by acne-causing bacteria such as P. acnes. This action helps in mitigating inflammation and potentially decreasing the severity of acne lesions. Thus, RAR γ’s influence on TLR2 represents a crucial intersection between retinoid therapy and acne management, highlighting the importance of retinoids in targeting both the inflammatory and proliferative aspects of acne.

Comparison of RAR binding with Various Retinoids

There are 4 main retinoid compounds used topically in dermatology to treat acne, melasma, and skin aging. Their activity differs based on their strength, formulation, and which retinoid acid receptor it binds.

Adapalene: Selective for RAR β and γ, adapalene is effective in treating acne with less irritation compared to tretinoin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

Tretinoin: Activates all RARs, with a significant effect on RAR α, making it very effective for anti-aging, acne, and pigmentation issues, albeit with higher irritation potential.

Tazarotene: A third-generation retinoid with activity across all RARs but with a particular affinity for RAR β and γ. It is potent for acne, psoriasis, and signs of aging but can be more irritating.

Trifarotene: The first fourth-generation retinoid selective for RAR γ, offering targeted action for acne treatment with a favorable tolerability profile.

In summary, the choice between adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene, and trifarotene should be informed by their RAR specificity, the dermatological condition being treated, and the individual’s Baumann Skin Type. These considerations will ensure the most effective and personalized approach to skin care and treatment.

There is a lot of complicated science involved in designing a skincare routine that is best for you skin type. Let us help!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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