Why We’re Putting Fungi In Skincare
There’s a shroom boom happening. Truffle on your toastie, portobello’s in your burger…
Now you’re finding fungi in your skincare formulas! There’s a myriad of functional benefits to using this ingredient topically, especially when working with more powerful (potentially bitey) actives.
Broadly speaking, mushroom extracts have a soothing effect. They help to protect and counteract flare ups from more active ingredients. A godsend for sensitive skin types and skincare beginners.
Albatrellus Confluens, the mushroom extract found in De-Crease (our brand spanking new retinal eye serum!), is rich in grifolin derivatives which have been proven in in-vitro studies (so in a test tube, in a lab), to inhibit TRPV1 receptor activation. Stay with me. When the TRPV1 receptor is activated it causes an inflammatory response; one which may lead to irritation: redness, stinging, itching, burning. But! As I said, Albatrellus Confluens inhibits the TRPV1 receptor in-vitro so, in theory, this ingredient has the potential to reduce skin irritation.
Mushroom extract is just one of the MVPs working very harmoniously inside our eye serum. Its soothing and protecting qualities may help minimise retinal (a strong form of vitamin a) (the gold standard in anti-ageing) from aggravating the skin post-application. A quick nod at peptides for their power to lift sagging skin, and niacinamide for its skin strengthening properties, altogether this serum is clinically proven* to reduce the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles, and improve hydration, firmness, and texture of the under eye area.
Back to the pizza-topper-turned-skincare-saviour. The mushroom extract Go-To source specifically for De-Crease is harvested from the boreal taiga forests in Finland. One of the world’s richest biomes. These mushrooms grow organically, in a symbiotic relationship (read: mutually beneficial relationship) with the trees. The mushrooms help maximise the health and strength of the trees, and in return, the trees provide nutrients that allow the mushrooms to grow and flourish.
Picked sustainably (by hand) thanks to experienced Finnish farmers, the harvesting of the mushrooms does not harm the population or overall ecosystem. The entire mushroom organism is present in the root-like structure so these fleshly guys very quickly reproduce on the forest floor.
Fungi fact! We use the fruiting body only of the albatrellus confluens. That’s the top-hat, toadstool-y part you think of first when picturing a wild mushroom. (Only they aren’t red with white spots. Sounds poisonous.)
All skin types will play well with mushroom derived ingredients. And we bet you’re about to see this ingredient on the back of a lot of beauty bottles.
*Based on a 12 week clinical trial with 30 participants.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
